You’re aware that almost every higher end boat since 2005 has either shiny gel coat, clear coated carbon fiber or paint, or a shiny MFD display right? A textured white plastic panel will look straight out of the late 90s maybe early 2000s, but maybe that’s what you’re going for.

If you think the gauges and switches on a single engine boat are too much for you, you better leave it alone or let professionals handle it.

Many thread you go after Brad, what`s up with that ?

Dave,

The gauges in our boat are 22yrs old, with a little over 300hrs on them, and still work perfectly. Maybe it's that these gauges came from an era when most things were made a bit better...? Who knows? The tach has been getting a little temperamental, showing higher RPM than reality, and I may address that during this work. For now, a little tap on the face with a knuckle and it comes back to normal. I've also been given some insight as to how to address it myself for the time being.

It just seems like the glossy dash would be like a mirror with the sun coming from the wrong direction. It's bad enough when you get that laser glint off another boat's windshield, I don't need it under my own chin. It looks cool and all, just not on my boat. I was just curious, either way.

Thanks. Brad.

Dan,

Compensating.

The funny thing is he thinks, like a pigeon on a chess board, that he's gotten something accomplished on those threads. Just let him have that. It might be all he's got.

Thanks. Brad.

IGetWet,

I'm not one to follow trends for the sake of following trends. If that was my intention, I'd butcher my boat up and hang lawn care equipment off the transom. I'm adding a gauge, not doing an overhaul or restomod. I don't dislike the look, it's just not what I'm after. And, again, I don't recall your opinion being a priority of my decision-making process. Although, your tired condescending snark is duly noted.

There's about a universe between something being more than I want to tackle at the moment and something I can't handle. A good friend of mine has a signature on his profile on another forum that reads: "I don't regret the things I did wrong. I regret the things I did for the wrong people." I'm far more capable than you will likely ever realize, and I'm typically very generous with volunteering my time and skills for worthy efforts, but I'll make damned sure you never find out first-hand the scope of my capabilities. But don't you worry you little head.... This wiring is well within that range and scope. It's far more about my available time, which is limited and comes in small batches, than my capacity to complete the work. I'm fortunate enough to not have to winterize my boat, as I keep it in my shop, but I've putzed around too long over the winter, spring is rapidly approaching, and I don't want to hear about it from administration if I haven't gotten it back together in time for the first nice day to hit the water. I've got a clear path forward, all necessary steps are planned and accounted for, and I've already started the work. Fortunately, I've gotten some really good advice from several informed individuals, here and elsewhere. Curiously, everybody here on this thread have actually intended to help.... Except one.

Thanks. Brad.

:food-smiley-007:

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...4372a8b90.jpeg
Step one complete. The switches were orders of magnitude more difficult to remove than I expected. I watched a video demonstrating “how easy” it was to “just walk them out”….. Sure. If you’re holding it like they are in the video and they don’t still have wires attached. Visibility made documenting the wiring first nearly impossible until the switch was out. My thumbs are trashed.

It’s off to a graphics shop to be rendered as a DXF. I can then manipulate it in AutoCad and place the gages where I want them.

I will definitely have some zip ties to replace after the reinstall.

Thanks. Brad.

Brad, lay the panel on the ground and take a pic with your phone straight on as best you can then send it to you self via text to email.
Save the pic on your computer then import the image into CAD
Then you can trace over the image, after you get an outline done you can scale it to size to match the actual size of the piece. from there you can print it out full scale and lay the original panel on top to make sure it works and do any fine tuning you need to and from there you can play any way you want with layouts. Ive done this a few times for people :D

I would do away with the gauges. Kept a few on my dash redo and never even look at them. Going digital is so much more precise and easier to read and if your motor is Vessel view capable it is even easier. They work now, but probably on borrowed time and then you'll never find a matching replacement. I'll probably redo mine at some point and remove the analog gauges.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1cbc3e749c.jpg

double post

One day I'm going the all digital route. My Livorsi gauges have held up well over the years but I'm sure they're on borrowed time - some are over ten years old for sure. I would need to do analog to digital converters for mine but figure I could do all of that under the helm.

Good thread!

Wally,

Yup. I've done quite a few graphics to DWG/DXF conversions myself. That's how I've been doing to hitch plugs in SolidWorks. But I've already dropped the panel off at the graphics shop. He's got a scanner that will capture the entire piece in one snapshot, align it and convert to DXF in minutes, plus he's gonna do a one-piece vinyl "wrap" that will include the stripe, a PQ graphic (the same one in the back window of my truck, scaled down), on a white CF hologram-like background. All I have to do is move the gauge holes around to suit my purpose.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...54c67c8014.jpg


I did manage to lose function in the engine hatch rocker switch during the process, but I lost it even before I got to it, as far as disconnecting and removal. Time to break out the multimeter and figure out why.

I also managed to pull the rocker cover off another rocker switch, and it's lost its mooring (broken), so it won't stay on. Suppose it could be glued on, or will it have to be replaced? It seems like the company (Carling) is still going strong. I might have to get a part number from them and order a new one. Already talked to the graphics shop about laser engraving the label on it (they have one) if I have to replace it.

Thanks. Brad.

Thanks. Brad.

Vheim,

I hear you, and I don't dislike the digital route at all. The vessel-view aspect is very appealing. It's just too late in the game at this moment to go down that rabbit hole. Maybe in the future.

The gauge I ordered is a direct match to what I've already go, and they have all the others if something should come up. The GPS speedo is farqing expensive, though, comparatively. Time will tell if the build quality is still there on new gauges.

I'm even going to make a bezel for my Insta-Trim indicator gauge (it's a weird size that nobody makes a bezel for, and I am more than capable of the machining), and have it powder coated to match the bezels already installed. It bugs me that it's the oddball without one. Uniformity is important to me, which is the only reason I didn't jump on the option of the little volage indicator Dan brought up a while back. That would have made this whole process WAY easier. But no.... :rolleyes:

Thanks. Brad.

OK....

As mentioned, I lost function of the engine hatch rocker switch somewhere between the beginning of disassembly (I checked) and actually getting to disconnecting the terminals to the switch. Meaning the switch was working before work began, after work began, but stopped working at some point before I got to disconnecting the switch in question. Everything else seems to work fine. This tells me something else happened. I've cut a blue million zip ties, but I have a bundle of wires still bundled together, which includes the "to motor" wires from the switch.

The switch appears to be deisgned/wired a bit differently than the diagram I found on a search here on OSO:

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...3abc35f37a.jpg

This is actually mirrored, as if looking at the terminals from the front of the switch, but it doesn't really matter. Using a multimeter, I find 13V from the wire leading to #4, and a solid ground between the wire terminal and the ground strap in the dash well. Testing between the ground strap and both output terminals on the switch, I get 13V when the switch is pressed in the appropriate direction. I have not checked at the motor, as that will require cutting the wires and reconnecting them, which I'm kinda loathe to do if it's not necessary.

Any ideas?

Thanks. Brad.

bypass the switch all together and just take the motor wires and put one to ground the other to power and see if the hatch ram works....if it clicks and nothing reverse them cause maybe you have it in the down setup. If that still doesn't work then you have to start digging in deeper...

Wally,

I found non-continuity in a "to motor" wire between the switch and a cluster connector; either #5 or #6 in my sketch. I unbundled it and started checking point to point at various points along the wire and found continuity from the bare wire inside the insulator of the blade connector and the other end of the wire, but not through the actual connector. Started separating the Y, and the blade connector came apart. The actual crimp contact had broken, but the jumper that Y'd them together was holding it in place. Pretty sure this was it. I'm betting I did it while wrestling around with the loomed wires trying to get the switches out.

As it happens, I don't have any blade connectors on hand at the moment, so I'm off to AutoZone momentarily to get some. News at eleven....

Thanks. Brad.

Wally,

That was it. Replaced the blade connector. Engine hatch back to operational.

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

On to the next question....

Where is the best place to tap into the oil flow for the sending unit? 496HO. It has a the ProCharger, but, otherwise, it's as Merc intended it: stock remote oil filter mount, stock oil cooler, etc.... Is there an easy, obvious tap somewhere that is plugged off in the absence of a sending unit? Or do I add one with fittings at a connection somewhere?

Thanks. Brad.

87MirageIntruder Has upgraded everything oil wise on his built/ Whippled 496.

Dave,

Thanks for that. PM’d him.

Thanks. Brad.

1st time using it, but I "think" the way I tagged him here he gets a notification automatically?

Guys,

Recommendations for the oil temp sender unit? I see LOTS of options on Amazon and such. Does it much matter?

Thanks. Brad.

Be careful with the sending units. I just updated my gauges from the original Livorsi to new Autometers and 2 of the gauges weren't reading correctly. Found out the Autometers needed a specific sending unit for the range on the new gauges as they differed from the originals.

Mirage,

Yup. That's why I'm asking. Just want to get it right the first time.

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

<Sheepish grin>.......

Speaking of getting it right the first time... Somehow, I got it in my head that I needed a Livorsi gauge. So, I ordered it, and waited. It was shipped today. Opening the box, it immediately didn't look right. So, I crawled up into the boat. The dash cluster is still hanging loose in the dash cavity, so I grabbed one and held it up to the new gage to confirm. Yup. I needed a GAFFRIG..... :picard1::faint2:

New, CORRECT gauge is on order. Hopefully, I will be able to return this Livorsi. If not, it will make its way over to the SwapShop. At the end of the day, I ain't out that much if they won't let me return it and I can't get it sold.

Otherwise....

Project is moving along nicely. I have the new dash panel drawn and had a clear acrylic template laser cut to verify placement of gauges. After a slight adjustment to gauge positioning, I fired off a PO to the sheet metal shop to laser cut one from .080" aluminum.

I've also made a new bezel for the trim tab indicator and had it powder coated. The color couldn't have been a better match.

Thanks. Brad.

Lavorsi has a 15% restocking fee. Plus you're out the shipping.. If you talk with them they may forgo the restocking fee.

Dave,

I'd be good with that.

I bought it from Custom Built Motorsports. I've already reached out to them and they are contacting Livorsi to see if they will allow a return. Apparently, Livorsis are "built to order", so are considered "custom", at least to a degree. We'll see. Fingers crossed.

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

Keeping ahead of things…..

I’m gonna change the oil during this process, since I have to remove the oil filter mount for modification for the sender. I ordered AmsOil 20W50, but, having the 5+qt Jug in my head, I ordered two 1gal jugs, which is obviously only 8qts, and I need 9. Has anybody ever used Lucas oil treatment (or equivalent)? It’s prescribed to substitute one qt with it, so that would make up the difference. Or am I ordering another gallon jug? Were there any benefits or detriments to using these oil treatments in a marine application?

Also, is there any reason to obediently use the Merc filter? Are there better alternatives?

Thanks. Brad.

Why the 20w50? You spent all that money already. Buy the extra qt.

For the past several years I've been using the K&N HP-3002 filter.

Dave,

Why 20W50? Isn’t it pretty much the prescription for marine engines? It’s certainly what is prescribed in the Merc specs.

I didn’t intentionally short buy. I just had the 5qt+ jug thing in my head, and somehow thought that two jugs would give me one more qt than I needed. I just didn’t make the conversion in my head when I bought two gallon jugs. Brain dead moment.:rolleyes:

Still curious if anybody’s used Lucas or an equivalent.

Thanks. Brad.

Bajaman,

I’ve been using K&N on my truck for a while now. If for no other reason than the hex on the end is a good workaround for GM’s propensity to not give you any access to the circumference of the filter to change it.

Thanks for the P#.

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

The new dash panel is finally right and in the hands of the vinyl shop for the wrap. Still don’t have the Gaffrig gauge in hand yet, but it’s on its way.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1a0bbf8e1.jpeg

Looks like getting the filter mount out, and more to the point, back in, to do the modification for the oil temp sender is going to be a hoot. Three of the four bolts will be a breeze to get out. They are right out in the open. But one is kinda “landlocked” by the intercooler. Getting it out may not be that hard. It’ll just have to be the last one to be removed. Getting it back together, though, is gonna be a serious PITA….

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

Gauge is in. Bezel is in. Signal wire from sender is ran. I just need to wire the gauge in. Or, at least, get the wiring in place, ready to make the connections for when the dash panel is done. Am I correct in thinking I can just daisy chain off the keyed ignition power, running light power and ground from a nearby gauge?

Thanks. Brad.

Yes you are correct.

87MirageIntruder,

Sweet.

Thanks. Brad.

Wally,

Is there a standard wire color for oil temp? It's a little too late, as the wire is already routed (white, because it wasn't on this chart). Just curious....

Thanks. Brad.

Gaffrig Presion Instrument labeled gauges are now labeled as Livorsi. Gaffrig Performance labeled gauges are still labeled Gaffrig. There was a trademark lawsuit years ago.
You need to run the correct hertz sender for the gauge

Merc spec oil is 25w-40. I have run 15w50 Mobil 1 and Mobil1 M1-302 oil filters for the past 30 years in my Merc engines.

Griff,

Mine are Gaffrig Performance. I just checked, and the impedance of the sender I bought is 29150-1270ohms. Any clue what sender impedance the Performance gauges need? I guess I'm gonna have to call Gaffrig and find out the correct impedance for the sender. Near as I can tell, their website is of zero help on the matter.

Thanks. Brad.