You’re aware that almost every higher end boat since 2005 has either shiny gel coat, clear coated carbon fiber or paint, or a shiny MFD display right? A textured white plastic panel will look straight out of the late 90s maybe early 2000s, but maybe that’s what you’re going for.

If you think the gauges and switches on a single engine boat are too much for you, you better leave it alone or let professionals handle it.

Many thread you go after Brad, what`s up with that ?

Dave,

The gauges in our boat are 22yrs old, with a little over 300hrs on them, and still work perfectly. Maybe it's that these gauges came from an era when most things were made a bit better...? Who knows? The tach has been getting a little temperamental, showing higher RPM than reality, and I may address that during this work. For now, a little tap on the face with a knuckle and it comes back to normal. I've also been given some insight as to how to address it myself for the time being.

It just seems like the glossy dash would be like a mirror with the sun coming from the wrong direction. It's bad enough when you get that laser glint off another boat's windshield, I don't need it under my own chin. It looks cool and all, just not on my boat. I was just curious, either way.

Thanks. Brad.

Dan,

Compensating.

The funny thing is he thinks, like a pigeon on a chess board, that he's gotten something accomplished on those threads. Just let him have that. It might be all he's got.

Thanks. Brad.

IGetWet,

I'm not one to follow trends for the sake of following trends. If that was my intention, I'd butcher my boat up and hang lawn care equipment off the transom. I'm adding a gauge, not doing an overhaul or restomod. I don't dislike the look, it's just not what I'm after. And, again, I don't recall your opinion being a priority of my decision-making process. Although, your tired condescending snark is duly noted.

There's about a universe between something being more than I want to tackle at the moment and something I can't handle. A good friend of mine has a signature on his profile on another forum that reads: "I don't regret the things I did wrong. I regret the things I did for the wrong people." I'm far more capable than you will likely ever realize, and I'm typically very generous with volunteering my time and skills for worthy efforts, but I'll make damned sure you never find out first-hand the scope of my capabilities. But don't you worry you little head.... This wiring is well within that range and scope. It's far more about my available time, which is limited and comes in small batches, than my capacity to complete the work. I'm fortunate enough to not have to winterize my boat, as I keep it in my shop, but I've putzed around too long over the winter, spring is rapidly approaching, and I don't want to hear about it from administration if I haven't gotten it back together in time for the first nice day to hit the water. I've got a clear path forward, all necessary steps are planned and accounted for, and I've already started the work. Fortunately, I've gotten some really good advice from several informed individuals, here and elsewhere. Curiously, everybody here on this thread have actually intended to help.... Except one.

Thanks. Brad.

:food-smiley-007:

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...4372a8b90.jpeg
Step one complete. The switches were orders of magnitude more difficult to remove than I expected. I watched a video demonstrating “how easy” it was to “just walk them out”….. Sure. If you’re holding it like they are in the video and they don’t still have wires attached. Visibility made documenting the wiring first nearly impossible until the switch was out. My thumbs are trashed.

It’s off to a graphics shop to be rendered as a DXF. I can then manipulate it in AutoCad and place the gages where I want them.

I will definitely have some zip ties to replace after the reinstall.

Thanks. Brad.

Brad, lay the panel on the ground and take a pic with your phone straight on as best you can then send it to you self via text to email.
Save the pic on your computer then import the image into CAD
Then you can trace over the image, after you get an outline done you can scale it to size to match the actual size of the piece. from there you can print it out full scale and lay the original panel on top to make sure it works and do any fine tuning you need to and from there you can play any way you want with layouts. Ive done this a few times for people :D

I would do away with the gauges. Kept a few on my dash redo and never even look at them. Going digital is so much more precise and easier to read and if your motor is Vessel view capable it is even easier. They work now, but probably on borrowed time and then you'll never find a matching replacement. I'll probably redo mine at some point and remove the analog gauges.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1cbc3e749c.jpg

double post