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Guys,
So, I read that the new K&N HP3003 is the old 3002. I've also read that the only difference is that the old 3003 has a built-in bypass valve, and the old 3002 did not. Does this mean that the 3003 I've currently got, after ordering a 3002 (Amazon), does NOT have the bypass valve? How do I know if I have the if I have the NEW 3003 or the OLD 3003? And, with the stock Merc 496 configuration (oil temp sender mods aside), do I NEED a bypass valve, in addition to one that may or may not already be there? Is there one in the stock configuration? Thanks. Brad. |
The factory 496 gen 7s have a 30psi bypass valve located in the block. You don't need a bypass valve in the filter but either way would run fine.
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Originally Posted by 87MirageIntruder
(Post 4895657)
The factory 496 gen 7s have a 30psi bypass valve located in the block. You don't need a bypass valve in the filter but either way would run fine.
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60 microns equals: 0.0023",, since a regular 51060 or 61 flows MORE THEN A TYPICAL BBC PUMPS, theres NO absolutely reason to run the R series of filter on a recreational boat, heavier can, great, since no ones exploding "standard " wix filter cans thats ZERO benefit too.Unless your putting your throttle on dashboard with your oil at 70 degrees, which no one should be doing, the regular 60 and 61 filters Six to EIGHT TIMES better fwiw
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If I have a choice to run a better fiter with a better micron rating why would I chose a Racing filter designed for flow on race cars? .. even if an engine went 100 passes without changing oil or filter (nobody thats smart would do that) thats 10 hrs. I certainly don`t change my oil every 10 hrs.
I`m running the filter with more filtration, to me that`s a no brainer. I like my filters to filter .. never had a flow issue due to a filter being too good. |
They say pictures speak a thousand words. As a side note, this HP 500 had 17 hours of offshore factory race time when I bought it. Never used a drop of oil which is crazy for a BB. You guys telling me I just got lucky my chit didn't blow up? I'm showing you empirical evidence. We don't run in a dirt track environment. 15W50 Mobil 1 changed every 50 hours. :party-smiley-004:
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c1bfc226aa.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...5a5f5daf92.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...25c130f6ae.jpg |
Originally Posted by the deep
(Post 4895695)
They say pictures speak a thousand words. As a side note, this HP 500 had 17 hours of offshore factory race time when I bought it. Never used a drop of oil which is crazy for a BB. You guys telling me I just got lucky my chit didn't blow up? I'm showing you empirical evidence. We don't run in a dirt track environment. 15W50 Mobil 1 changed every 50 hours. :party-smiley-004:
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c1bfc226aa.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...5a5f5daf92.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...25c130f6ae.jpg |
I always ran a straight 50W (Valvoline VR1) you dont really need the first number as its for cold weather (winter) running equivalent....
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I'm a big believer in plenty of flow on a high performance marine engine don't get me wrong. that's why I run -12 lines, full flow bends, etc. I run the 2 quart super long oil filters so I can get way more flow than I'd need, while also getting filtration in the 20-30 micron range. Oil analysis particle count results show they are filtering out the particles in the size range they should. It's about surface area of the media, so get a filter with lots of pleats and as long as you can fit. There was a study done years ago on engine wear and it was found on a typical engine with average clearances, particles less than 20 microns didn't cause significant wear, they just passed through.
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Guys,
Maybe it's my lacking Google skills.... Can anyone tell me the filtration size for the K&N3002(3)? I can't find anything about it anywhere. All the links that pop up only parrot what K&N has on their website. I don't really need to know the OD and OAL......:rolleyes: Thanks. Brad. |
Originally Posted by articfriends
(Post 4895665)
60 microns equals: 0.0023",, since a regular 51060 or 61 flows MORE THEN A TYPICAL BBC PUMPS, theres NO absolutely reason to run the R series of filter on a recreational boat, heavier can, great, since no ones exploding "standard " wix filter cans thats ZERO benefit too.Unless your putting your throttle on dashboard with your oil at 70 degrees, which no one should be doing, the regular 60 and 61 filters Six to EIGHT TIMES better fwiw
Coming from a machining vantage point, that sounds incredibly large. I have course lapping compound with smaller grit particle size than that. I can't imagine anything that large flowing toward a main journal. Ick.... Thanks. Brad. |
Originally Posted by Wally
(Post 4895380)
SB, where was that filter made? It seems like the ones i have that are US made all have the black seals in them...yours has red....my buddy that had the Napa Gold from China had the red seal in it as well....
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...9f5c0c91c.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...e04a01c9b.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...8d80c9b88.jpeg |
https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-z-ro...motor-oil-zrd/
Anyone run amsoil, debating running Z-rod 10w40 this season for the high Zinc in it. |
Originally Posted by sb
(Post 4895750)
made in the usa. :(
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Originally Posted by Joeyboost
(Post 4895751)
https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-z-ro...motor-oil-zrd/
Anyone run amsoil, debating running Z-rod 10w40 this season for the high Zinc in it. I'm getting ready to switch to their 20w50. Got the oil and K&N filter; just waiting for the oil temp sender from Gaffrig to arrive so I can do the modifications to the filter mount during the oil change. I opted out of the Z-Rod formula. The standard 20w50 says "High Zinc" on the jugs. Not sure how much is in either. The reports I read on scorch tests and such, and insight from here on OSO, leads me to believe AmsOil is about as good as it gets. Thanks. Brad. |
Originally Posted by Joeyboost
(Post 4895751)
https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-z-ro...motor-oil-zrd/
Anyone run amsoil, debating running Z-rod 10w40 this season for the high Zinc in it. I ran Amsoil Dominator in my last boat for a minute. If you believe the interwebs, Bob Teague likes it. |
Originally Posted by Joeyboost
(Post 4895718)
So that brings up another question, oil weight to go along with a good filter, I just had the 502 Mag in my boat rebuilt its now a 509 with a hotter cam and 9.3:1 compression. Its a lake boat so high RPM runs for long periods of time do NOT happen, I ran Rotella 10w40 in it last season as a break in but is that to light of an oil? Do I need to run 15/50?
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0.0025" main bearing clearance is 63 microns.
There's studies that say small 20 micron cause the most wear and many that don't. The crank won't stay perfectly centered within the bearing, and when loaded, likely bends taking up much of the clearance. 20 micron contaminants would start contacting at 0.0008". Soot will wear down parts by abrasion, but that is more a diesel issue. There are other methods to polish the oil in the pan or dry sump tank. Use an additional small flow higher pressure electric pump that flows oil just through a finer filter and back into the pan. Where is the contamination coming from? How clean is the air going into the engine? |
Originally Posted by Diamond Dave
(Post 4895763)
I ran Amsoil Dominator in my last boat for a minute. If you believe the interwebs, Bob Teague likes it.
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Originally Posted by Brad Christy
(Post 4895756)
Joey,
I'm getting ready to switch to their 20w50. Got the oil and K&N filter; just waiting for the oil temp sender from Gaffrig to arrive so I can do the modifications to the filter mount during the oil change. I opted out of the Z-Rod formula. The standard 20w50 says "High Zinc" on the jugs. Not sure how much is in either. The reports I read on scorch tests and such, and insight from here on OSO, leads me to believe AmsOil is about as good as it gets. Thanks. Brad. https://www.amsoil.com/c/gasoline-mo...ce&pageSize=20 Looks like Dominator isnt offered in 20w50 only Z-Rod |
Originally Posted by Joeyboost
(Post 4895857)
Which Amsoil ae you going to run if not Z-Rod? Dominator?
https://www.amsoil.com/c/gasoline-mo...ce&pageSize=20 Looks like Dominator isnt offered in 20w50 only Z-Rod THIS Thanks. Brad. |
Ok cool I just ordered 9qts for $110.00
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This right here. Low tension ported metric rings and plateau honing = redused friction(particles),less heat and a proven gain in power output.
Where is the contamination coming from? How clean is the air going into the engine?[/QUOTE] |
Originally Posted by SB
(Post 4895750)
Made in the USA. :(
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...9f5c0c91c.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...e04a01c9b.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...8d80c9b88.jpeg |
Originally Posted by Joeyboost
(Post 4895868)
Ok cool I just ordered 9qts for $110.00
Both included free shipping. |
Originally Posted by SB
(Post 4895929)
I recently got 10quarts of Valvoline vr1 20w-50 for $50 total and 10 quarts of mobil 1 15w-50 for $50 total also.
Both included free shipping. I have the System 1 stainless mesh re-usable filter. I have to confirm the micron rating. There's different sizes available. Should be interesting to see how they work out. Cleaning them pay be a PITA. |
I run a clearview 60 micron same as wixR which lets me check filter when I want to see if it has anything concerning in it, with oil changes every 25h or so. All -12AN lines and an accusump to on start up and god forbid an dips in oil pressure underway.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c465f32a2.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...bd2d6ed2e.jpeg |
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