87Cig,

I'd think this alone would rule out reversion. One layman's opinion.

Thanks. Brad.

I pulled one yesterday while I had a few minutes it had signs of water on it for sure. If weather breaks this week I’m gonna pull it back out run it on the pipe again and have a look see

I saw that you had the rubber hose on the end of risers..assuming you had wet exhaust with flappers.

Dyno water pressure? Was it using a sealed system or just pumping water from a reservoir?

Anything internal with both engines is very odd.

Spring time can bring some major temp swings and condensation. Not likely but another thought I had...

Before running it again, maybe some of the "issues" with hoses should be addressed?

I had the same issue of my oil getting milked. I tore my motor apart 4 times trying to figure out what was causing it. Finally found that the bowtie block had a sleeve you couldn't see and it was leaking out the bottom of that. No visible cracks. I just happened to see a drop of water fall with the pan off. Drove me nuts for 2 seasons.

Checked all 4 risers with mineral spirits for 30 minutes a piece no visable leaks there…

Pressure checking manifolds one more dang time just to make dang certain.

I’ve never seen reversion make milky oil. I guess in severe situations it can. Typically you’ll see water stains on manifolds and rust on exhaust valves. Since your tails are off can you look down into the valves? When you rebuilt did you change guide seals on valves? have you checked intake? What oil are you running? Bad oil cooler typically doesn’t produce milky oil…it usually pushes oil out into water. You’d see rainbows in your tail water. I guess it could get milky when engines are turned off.

just going to throw this out there as I have seen it before. what was the water pressure in the block when run on the dyno and what was the water pressure when it is milking the oil? reason I ask is I have seen where some of the head bolts are a hair too long and when torqued they are actually torquing against the end of the threads and not pulling the head down and compressing the gasket fully. if the pressure on the dyno is low compared to what the boat is seeing it could be the difference in leaking past the head gasket or not. long shot but as Sherlock Holmes said "when you eliminate the impossible then what is left, no matter how improbable, is the answer" or something to that effect.

Good point here. Had similar except with valve covers. Dyno was spraying oil out of the cover but bolts were tight. Put in a thicker valve cover gasket and problem solved