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And a shame on and FU to quick fuel and holley. Wtf people ? Twice the $$$ over last 1/2 dozen years and make it junk ? Not cool. :(
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I meant to attach this sheet I received from Holley. Just FYI
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...2e95937d41.png |
What a cheap out move on Holley/QFT’s part. They know this is a problem but have not addressed.
And their tech guys are clueless to boot. Rob, glad I could help you get her figured out! |
Originally Posted by PQ290Enticer
(Post 4904971)
I meant to attach this sheet I received from Holley. Just FYI
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...2e95937d41.png OH yeah, this was brand new out of box carb too. Once all this was done, I was able to go down 8 to 10 jets sizes and afrs were on target at part throttle and wot, transition was good, idle was good. |
Originally Posted by articfriends
(Post 4905356)
Like I mentioned in our conversation a while back, I have yet to see a QF holley that wasnt a hot mess, the last one I tuned for a boat engine needed IFRS drilled larger, jet feeds reamed, transfer slots doubled in length, other passages pin gauged and adjusted, work on their stupid emulsion garbage, extra emulsion holes added where holley usually has them when they don't have bleeds, base plate needed circuit work, PVCR enlarged, different IAB, had .028 hs bleeds from holley because they needed to bandaided the main jet signal because fuel passages weren't conducive to flow and signal sucked, got rid of the J hooks because they put vacuum on bowl and disrupt fuel to main jets, added the offroad truck crossover vent tube, the sets screws in rear plate that fill the passage holes for when they drill it for fuel were loose and falling out, the throttle stop had bigger threads then the set screw so it was falling out and needed fixed then epoxied, the arm that opens the secondarys needed tweaked because once stop was actually correct, blades werent square. These are just the things off top of my head, there were others. ITS main issue was it was blow up lean at 15 to 17-1 at part throttle and too rich at wot, the circuits needed serious work because just adding MORE jet to get part throttle killed the afrs at wot and it transitioned terrible. Ran perfect once all that was done and i dialed it in on dyno then boat in no time fwiw, Smitty
OH yeah, this was brand new out of box carb too. Once all this was done, I was able to go down 8 to 10 jets sizes and afrs were on target at part throttle and wot, transition was good, idle was good. One thing that stands out… the guys that really know how to fix these contraptions just about always suggest going back to the tried and true Holley 3310’s metering. This will get you much closer on a marine carburetor (for cars it’s a miraculous fix). |
Originally Posted by articfriends
(Post 4905356)
Like I mentioned in our conversation a while back, I have yet to see a QF holley that wasnt a hot mess, the last one I tuned for a boat engine needed IFRS drilled larger, jet feeds reamed, transfer slots doubled in length, other passages pin gauged and adjusted, work on their stupid emulsion garbage, extra emulsion holes added where holley usually has them when they don't have bleeds, base plate needed circuit work, PVCR enlarged, different IAB, had .028 hs bleeds from holley because they needed to bandaided the main jet signal because fuel passages weren't conducive to flow and signal sucked, got rid of the J hooks because they put vacuum on bowl and disrupt fuel to main jets, added the offroad truck crossover vent tube, the sets screws in rear plate that fill the passage holes for when they drill it for fuel were loose and falling out, the throttle stop had bigger threads then the set screw so it was falling out and needed fixed then epoxied, the arm that opens the secondarys needed tweaked because once stop was actually correct, blades werent square. These are just the things off top of my head, there were others. ITS main issue was it was blow up lean at 15 to 17-1 at part throttle and too rich at wot, the circuits needed serious work because just adding MORE jet to get part throttle killed the afrs at wot and it transitioned terrible. Ran perfect once all that was done and i dialed it in on dyno then boat in no time fwiw, Smitty
OH yeah, this was brand new out of box carb too. Once all this was done, I was able to go down 8 to 10 jets sizes and afrs were on target at part throttle and wot, transition was good, idle was good. |
I chucked the J-tubes.
|
Originally Posted by articfriends
(Post 4905356)
Like I mentioned in our conversation a while back, I have yet to see a QF holley that wasnt a hot mess, the last one I tuned for a boat engine needed IFRS drilled larger, jet feeds reamed, transfer slots doubled in length, other passages pin gauged and adjusted, work on their stupid emulsion garbage, extra emulsion holes added where holley usually has them when they don't have bleeds, base plate needed circuit work, PVCR enlarged, different IAB, had .028 hs bleeds from holley because they needed to bandaided the main jet signal because fuel passages weren't conducive to flow and signal sucked, got rid of the J hooks because they put vacuum on bowl and disrupt fuel to main jets, added the offroad truck crossover vent tube, the sets screws in rear plate that fill the passage holes for when they drill it for fuel were loose and falling out, the throttle stop had bigger threads then the set screw so it was falling out and needed fixed then epoxied, the arm that opens the secondarys needed tweaked because once stop was actually correct, blades werent square. These are just the things off top of my head, there were others. ITS main issue was it was blow up lean at 15 to 17-1 at part throttle and too rich at wot, the circuits needed serious work because just adding MORE jet to get part throttle killed the afrs at wot and it transitioned terrible. Ran perfect once all that was done and i dialed it in on dyno then boat in no time fwiw, Smitty
OH yeah, this was brand new out of box carb too. Once all this was done, I was able to go down 8 to 10 jets sizes and afrs were on target at part throttle and wot, transition was good, idle was good. |
Originally Posted by TomZ
(Post 4905393)
I chucked the J-tubes.
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Originally Posted by SB
(Post 4905423)
Believe it or not, i’ve never done this. How do you guys pull them out ?
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