AShipShow,

Fortunately, we are not pulling the engine. I was able to lift and tilt the engine enough to gain access to the lower end of the dipstick tube and remove the broken part. Fortunately, the broken section that was in the oil pan came out pretty easily with some picking with my thumbnail.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...04916e742.jpeg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...279dde5a5.jpeg

I am in the process of making a replacement out of 316ss, and it should be back together by this time tomorrow.

Ironically, I think I was actually starting to get somewhere on the alignment thing. I used a come-a-long hung from the rafters of my building to lift the rear of the engine. I was hoping to gain access to the bits you refer to, but the extended snout of the coupler hit a rib on the transom plate, and limited the lift. I tried feeling between the bell housing mounting points and the transom plate, but couldn’t really tell anything. So I lowered it back into place. By whatever means, I think it settled in a bit lower, and I was starting to make some headway when the broken dipstick tube was discovered. As soon as I get that all back together, I’ll start back on that effort. News at eleven….

Yes. We will be installing a new gimbal bearing. Should be in hand tomorrow.

Thanks. Brad.

Guys,

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...e7e72bc18.jpeg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...89a0f054e.jpeg

Replacement part made for the piece that broke. Now to just put it all back together and get the engine back in place.

Thanks. Brad.

Nice machining Brad.

Some advice...don't even hint to the CFO how much time you're spending on this...

Lining things up, and having zero joy, and ads to the issues that promote stress and deny critical thinking.

Some good info on this post on how to prep for an engine/drive install.

Also a good practice once you get engine and drive in, is to check crank endplay, ensuring the crank didn't get pinched/or pushed.

Guys,

On to the next conundrum….

In the process of this, in an effort to preserve the 555 harness, I bought a new 10-pin cannon harness, which the builder grafted back to the engine. I’m now working on finalizing the remaining wiring; specifically the trim stuff. I’ve got three wires coming from the cannon harness, and found three matching wires coming from ”the boat”, going into the cannon plug:

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...80d9cb81f.jpeg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...741ae2a65.jpeg

And I found these wires/connecters coming from the 555 harness, labeled "transom harness":

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...d6936b6a1.jpeg

I have matching connecters at the transom plate. The two bullet connectors are the limit switch, per labeling of the two matching wires on the harness, (which I’m assuming are interchangeable, seeing it’s just a switch) and the three-wire connecter should be the trim sender, but which wire is which…? The colors are different from the cannon harness (grey, tan and brown/white) and the transom plate connecter (all black, one not labeled, the other two labeled "B" and C"). I’ve tried looking up the cannon plug wiring, but I haven’t found a 496 specific diagram, and it would appear that Merc substituted some of the cannon plug wires that are not used for the 496 for these trim connections.

Any Help?

Thanks. Brad.

Do you have a 3 wire trim sender? or 2 wire? If you have a smartcraft system with 3 wire, you will use that 3 wire plug as that is for the "digital trim" sender...
As for the wiring, I don't remember which is power and which is ground, but I do remember that the orange wire is the sensor feedback to the smartcraft system.
Unless you can find the wiring diagram somewhere, you might need to give the engine power and measure the voltage on the gray and black wires to see what the polarity is.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...62eca8e15.jpeg
It looks like based on this diagram that the gray wire is power, and the black is ground

AShipShow,

It is a 3-wire connecter, and the transom ass'y is SmartCraft, but I don't think it was actually in use.

I'm gathering that the three wires that are exiting the cannon plug have nothing to do with the trim sender or limit. Interwebs seems pretty adamant the grey is tach signal and tan in engine temp signal to audible dash alarm.

I just need to be connect the trim sender to the gage at the dash and connect the limit switch. I'm assuming that "B" in your diagram is the limit switch and "E" is the sender connecter...? Does all this have to go through the SmartCraft committee wiring?

Thanks. Brad.

My 496 setup is a 2006 and doesn't use the trim limit.. I guess that is handled through the smartcraft?? It only uses the 3 wire digital trim connector (E) and the two analog trim sender wires for the gauge (bullet connectors on my harness, orange with white stripe and black).

AShipShow,

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...ab9628163.jpeg

That’s what I have. The connecter to the right is capped (bridged?), and is labeled “steering/speedo pitpot”

But I’m not using any of that anymore. The entire 555 harness has been replaced with the Holley HP harness, which obviously has NONE of this.

I’m just hoping someone can tell me how to connect the sender to the gage. I could even go without the limit switch, if I have to, if I have a gauge.

Thanks. Brad.

The three wires in your pictures are: gray - tach, tan - temp sender to gauge, brown/white - trim sender to gauge
If your not using the 3 wire digital trim sender, then you will need to make sure you have the 2 wire analog sender for the gauge and 2 wire limit switch - this should be the kit part number

Mercruiser 805320A03 Power Trim Sender Kit Alpha/Bravo 2 Wire