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Originally Posted by Rookie
(Post 4914443)
They make a "T" fitting that you splice into your fuel fill hose that will return to tank. I have friends that did not have the issues I had when returned to filter head. I was returning right before the pump bypassing the filter head. Circulating the same fuel over and over. My electric pumps would run hot. This was after 20-30 minutes idle time. You can always try it and see if it works.
Example: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Inlin...yABEgK8QPD_BwE https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6bbd6e78f.jpeg I have access to the full hose on top of the tank, but I’m betting that hose would be a farqing nightmare to get off, and I’d have to cut it and use that cutoff as the splice between the tee and the fill bung. Did you have a fuel cooler when your pumps ran hot while idling? I will have a cooler in my plumbing, between the fuel rail and the regulator. Tyler, Sorry for the slight detail, but this might be handy info for you, too. Thanks. Brad. |
Originally Posted by Brad Christy
(Post 4914448)
Rookie,
I have access to the full hose on top of the tank, but I’m betting that hose would be a farqing nightmare to get off, and I’d have to cut it and use that cutoff as the splice between the tee and the fill bung. Usually this is T-d under the deck near the gunnel. Did you have a fuel cooler when your pumps ran hot while idling? No, and they ran cool while underway without the coolers. I will have a cooler in my plumbing, between the fuel rail and the regulator. You should be good then. Sorry for the slight detail, but this might be handy info for you, too. Thanks. Brad. |
Originally Posted by Rookie
(Post 4914457)
See above...
Speaking my language. :ernaehrung004: Carry on…. Thanks. Brad. |
Is anyone running the anti-siphon valve when going with the larger pick up tube?
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I've always had mine built with 3/16.
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Originally Posted by xlint89
(Post 4914481)
Is anyone running the anti-siphon valve when going with the larger pick up tube?
I installed one on the output port of the fuel pump. I removed the one that was on the pickup on the tank. It had about a 1/4" hole through it. :rolleyes::picard1: Thanks. Brad. |
Don’t worry about a de rail this is all great information. I’m a marine tech in my early 20s so I’m fortunate enough to be surrounded by a lot of knowledgeable guys but when it comes to the high performance stuff I’m limited to the stuff my dad has owned over the years, one local performance shop that has been awesome as far as setup and parts sourcing, and these forums. Im always interested in seeing what other people are doing.
The comment about big npt bungs was enough to get me thinking about using the adapters and making my own fuel pickups. Im sure this idea has been done before but prior when I thought of thread in pickups I had the image of a super restricted stock style that made a hard 90* turn and choked down fuel flow that I see every day. I was worried about the 5/8” -10 combo being to large for a mechanical pump but for the N/a setup I think I’ll start out with a -8 to 3/4 adapter with a 1/2” tube welded on. I can always make the larger setup if I need it down the road. |
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Originally Posted by Brad Christy
(Post 4914485)
XLint,
Amazon.com: Podavelle 10AN Non Return One Way Inline Check Valve Fitting Aluminum Black : Automotive I installed one on the output port of the fuel pump. I removed the one that was on the pickup on the tank. It had about a 1/4" hole through it. :rolleyes::picard1: Thanks. Brad. Will be ordering 1. Sorry for the derail OP. |
1/4 inch minimum is the way to go , The cost difference for material is minimal. I’d insert an extra bung for an extra pickup so one pickup is Main other is reserve. One thing I’ve learned with fuel gauges on boats during my 50 years is their worthless when you drop below a 1/4 tank.
Piece of mind to know you have 15-20 in the tank if you run out on the main pickup. |
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