Sunsation 288 with Bravo One X
05-06-2026 | 09:03 PM
#11
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JWilliams,
What engine you have in your Sunny? The BravoX would indicate you have some power. I’m guessing you’re approaching 70MPH, or even over it. Full hydraulic steering is definitely sound investment, in both time and money. Even in the short amount of time I’ve got on mine since the conversion, I can really tell the difference. Before, when I would take a tighter than usual turn at any real speed, I could feel the azz of the boat trying to slip out from under me. I always credited it to the stepped hull, as they tend to make them a little slippery on the water. But since doing the conversion, there is no fishtailing. My guess is there was enough play in the system that, when the azz wanted to go, the drive would lay over and allow it to. That is gone. I’ve also heard/read that a lot of chine walk is due to this play in the steering. I have not had a chance to stand on mine yet, pending some tuning to be done after a cam swap, so jury is still out on that, but I’m hopeful.
Thanks. Brad.
What engine you have in your Sunny? The BravoX would indicate you have some power. I’m guessing you’re approaching 70MPH, or even over it. Full hydraulic steering is definitely sound investment, in both time and money. Even in the short amount of time I’ve got on mine since the conversion, I can really tell the difference. Before, when I would take a tighter than usual turn at any real speed, I could feel the azz of the boat trying to slip out from under me. I always credited it to the stepped hull, as they tend to make them a little slippery on the water. But since doing the conversion, there is no fishtailing. My guess is there was enough play in the system that, when the azz wanted to go, the drive would lay over and allow it to. That is gone. I’ve also heard/read that a lot of chine walk is due to this play in the steering. I have not had a chance to stand on mine yet, pending some tuning to be done after a cam swap, so jury is still out on that, but I’m hopeful.
Thanks. Brad.
496 HO. It’s a wonderful boat and handles the water beautifully, but the sloppy steering feeling leaves me uncomfortable currently. I will definitely get more comfortable as time progresses, but at 70mph on the water, I’d like the boat to react as I need it to. It feels as though I’m constantly steering and oversteering trying to make small adjustments, especially in rougher than normal water conditions. I too have a stepped hull and have heard of the “slippery” feeling, but it’s nice to hear that it’s something possibly corrected.
05-06-2026 | 09:32 PM
#12
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From: Murrayville Georgia
at 70 mph dont waste time on half kits, just bite the bullet and get a full hydraulic with external rams. you will be happy and far safer and glad you spent the money on it. there is a lot of stress on the tiller arm as it is just a square hole slid over a pin with a bolt holding it tight. there is a LOT of stress out there on the end of the drive. with external rams the force is at the back end of the drive and the gimble is not taking near the stress as with a tiller. there will be no slop and it will react instantly with every little movement of the wheel. I have had customers argue that the cable is 'good enough' but after having hydraulic every one admitted that they should have done it sooner.
05-06-2026 | 09:38 PM
#13
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From: SW Ohio
496 HO. It’s a wonderful boat and handles the water beautifully, but the sloppy steering feeling leaves me uncomfortable currently. I will definitely get more comfortable as time progresses, but at 70mph on the water, I’d like the boat to react as I need it to. It feels as though I’m constantly steering and oversteering trying to make small adjustments, especially in rougher than normal water conditions. I too have a stepped hull and have heard of the “slippery” feeling, but it’s nice to hear that it’s something possibly corrected.
According to the lore, 70MPH is the threshold where you really should have, at the very least, external hydraulic steering. It is not uncommon to have a “half” setup, where you use the cable to drive the actuator, which is used as a manifold for the hydraulic cylinder, but most advise against it. And it sounds like you need a new helm/cable, anyhow.
If you ever get a good look at that tiller arm, and imagine what it would take to break it, and then imagine what happens if/when it breaks, it will scare the sh!t out of you.
I’d give the conversion a serious thinking.
Thanks. Brad.
05-06-2026 | 09:41 PM
#14
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From: SW Ohio
I’m not saying you’re wrong, and I have no idea what else should have caused it, but I have trouble believing eliminating chine wall scrubbed speed. Every time the hull bounces from side to side, that’s a tremendous amount of drag. Even hydroplanes run fastest when they aren’t dancing from sponson to sponson.
Thanks. Brad.
05-06-2026 | 09:43 PM
#15
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From: SW Ohio
at 70 mph dont waste time on half kits, just bite the bullet and get a full hydraulic with external rams. you will be happy and far safer and glad you spent the money on it. there is a lot of stress on the tiller arm as it is just a square hole slid over a pin with a bolt holding it tight. there is a LOT of stress out there on the end of the drive. with external rams the force is at the back end of the drive and the gimble is not taking near the stress as with a tiller. there will be no slop and it will react instantly with every little movement of the wheel. I have had customers argue that the cable is 'good enough' but after having hydraulic every one admitted that they should have done it sooner.
Yup. This.
Thanks. Brad.
