7.4 Mag MPI no start when hot
#12
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From: SW Ohio
I see that there are two output lines on the HP FP. I’d assume one of them is a return line. Where does it go in OEM configuration?
And will rerouting the supply line where it won’t get hot do any good?
Thanks. Brad.
#14
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From: SW Ohio
#15
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Joined: Feb 2020
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Yes, if the boat has a return line from tank you would route red arrow to tank. And plug the filter housing.
I approached it as my options were add the second pump kit or reroute to tank. If I didn’t have access to the kit pump so cheap I would have tried a tank reroute as the tank effectively is a gigantic fuel cooler. Dead head to the filter housing in a hot bilge was certainly part of it. I didn’t want to change too much at once to isolate my issue so I’m still running back to filter head with the pusher pump.
I approached it as my options were add the second pump kit or reroute to tank. If I didn’t have access to the kit pump so cheap I would have tried a tank reroute as the tank effectively is a gigantic fuel cooler. Dead head to the filter housing in a hot bilge was certainly part of it. I didn’t want to change too much at once to isolate my issue so I’m still running back to filter head with the pusher pump.
Last edited by deathdealer; 05-31-2026 at 06:56 AM.
#17
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From: SW Ohio
Yes, if the boat has a return line from tank you would route red arrow to tank. And plug the filter housing.
I approached it as my options were add the second pump kit or reroute to tank. If I didn’t have access to the kit pump so cheap I would have tried a tank reroute as the tank effectively is a gigantic fuel cooler. Dead head to the filter housing in a hot bilge was certainly part of it. I didn’t want to change too much at once to isolate my issue so I’m still running back to filter head with the pusher pump.
I approached it as my options were add the second pump kit or reroute to tank. If I didn’t have access to the kit pump so cheap I would have tried a tank reroute as the tank effectively is a gigantic fuel cooler. Dead head to the filter housing in a hot bilge was certainly part of it. I didn’t want to change too much at once to isolate my issue so I’m still running back to filter head with the pusher pump.
I don’t believe a return to tank is in the cards. My question was just in the actual physical location of the lines; keeping them away from any sources of heat, so that the fuel doesn’t get hot in the first place.
Are there any options for the inverted flare connections at the HP pump and the filter head?
Thanks. Brad.
#18
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Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 96
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You’d need to probably mess around with it in hand and get it back to an. I’m not aware of an ORB to inverted flare. Likely would need to go to barb fitting like I did. I went ORB to AN to thread on push lock barb. But I’m not aware of one for inverted flare.
#19
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 294
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From: texas
Waaaay back in 1990
my omc engine failed, block split..not froze
Just split
It was replaced under warranty
It had 4bbl carb
New block was electric pump only
Because I assume everything was going efi at that time
summer came and we started having fuel issues
Vappr lock etc
I rode In engine bay trying to f8gure it out
the electric pump..which we all know now got hot as a firecracker on outlet side
I orderd an oil coolet
routed pressure out thriugh it
and bingo problem solved
Sooooo
My money is the fuel temps
First
my omc engine failed, block split..not froze
Just split
It was replaced under warranty
It had 4bbl carb
New block was electric pump only
Because I assume everything was going efi at that time
summer came and we started having fuel issues
Vappr lock etc
I rode In engine bay trying to f8gure it out
the electric pump..which we all know now got hot as a firecracker on outlet side
I orderd an oil coolet
routed pressure out thriugh it
and bingo problem solved
Sooooo
My money is the fuel temps
First






