Ignition module swap for blower?
#21
Originally posted by Speed H2O
BOSSMAN & US1 Fountain, Thank's again! This info is invaluable to me!! US1Fountain, do you reccomend the V-6 module? If so, is it the 14 Degree advance module?
What is your total timing.
Do you reccomend anything else that I may be overlooking?
Thank's
Mikey
BOSSMAN & US1 Fountain, Thank's again! This info is invaluable to me!! US1Fountain, do you reccomend the V-6 module? If so, is it the 14 Degree advance module?
What is your total timing.
Do you reccomend anything else that I may be overlooking?
Thank's
Mikey
Not so much that I recommend it, but more of a factor that it works for me with good results, if not better. My motor idles fine, so I don't have to keep the rpms up to the point at which point the timing starts advancing too much. My timing is set at 28-29* at 3500. Yep, 14* module. My motor runs great with the Merc ignition. If it ain't broke...........
I personnaly didn't see the need for an aftermarket ign system for my own use.
Reasons being
a) I only run 5# boost at 29* max.
b) my idle is good, transom is spotless
c) MSD & Crane both harp on the multi spark at idle. *The following is my understanding, so read with caution* While that is great if your motor idles better that way, it is also said to be shorter hotter sparks which does wear more on the plugs. (Nit picking there I know) And also, once it goes back into the single spark mode, it is still the a shorter spark. The stock ign gives a more fatter spark throughout. I prefer this myself. Many MSD users will say no noticable difference at off idle rpm.
d) I hear of MSD failing, my brother went thru 2 MSD units in 1 yr. "I" have yet to hear of Mercs units giving out. Not saying they can't. I'd just rather not chance it. MSD distribs have a bad rap of rusting. Do a search on these 2 factors here on the board.
e) my motor is more of a bolt on blower package with well over 300 hrs and 7 yrs with nothing more than a swap to a hyd roller cam and some mild head flow work. Something must be right. Actually, the head work has cost me some power/speed.
f) power is there, and it is GREAT!
HOWEVER, if you were to run higher boost, the retard system that Bossman uses would be the way to go.
My motor made best power/torque at 30* on the dyno this spring. I just keep it at the 28-29* for the saftey factor.
If you are just bolting on a blower without tearing into the motor, the V6 will be fine. Just be sure to upgrade your fuel lines and every fitting, all the way to the tank, including the water/fuel seperator. Anti-siphon valve.
These are just my personnal opinions/experiences.
Sure others will be different.
Head spinning yet? Hope this helps more than confuses. If nothing else, print this out and line the bird cage with it.
Jerry
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#23
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Location: MI / Ft. Lauderdale
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us1 fountain, I agree with you if I would have set the timing at 28 or 29 I would still have the same heads. If you stay mild, v6 will work, it did on mine until I wanted more and I had my motor dynoed at 34 so i tried 32 thinking it was safe and got 4 hours and lost a valve. After three times I woke up and changed to what I have now.
Rich
Rich
#25
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I used the v6 module on two other combinations and it worked great. I always figured, simpler is better. It was not until this motor that I found the factory ignition couldn't cut it. I can't tell you why this motor is different, other than bigger and more boost with more carb, but I tried everything, but the ignition to get the plugs to stay clean. I figured I had a carb issue and talked many times to Nickerson (he set up the carbs). Finally pulled it and put it on the dyno and right away saw 30lbs torque increase using msd vs merc. after a couple of pulls, the plugs started to clear up. 2 more degrees of timing yielded 60hp. Now the motor never thinks about fouling a plug. There must be a point when a certain volume of mixture compressed to a certain level is too much for the stock inductive ignition to ignite fully??????