Trailer bunk replacement question.
 

I plan on replacing my trailer bunks first thing next spring. Before I put the boat in storage I measured the bunks and plan on having the new ones made so it will be an easy change out. The current bunks are 2"x4" and 2"x6" carpeted boards. My question is what kind of boards are these? Are they just standard or treated boards or is there a special marine grade board? I plan on getting the materials soon and want to get the right stuff. Thanks

Use pressure treated doug fir if its available in your area. If not any pressure treated will work. Dont forget stainless staples and hardware, and marine carpet. If you need to cut them be sure to re treat the cut ends. Not as good but better then nothing.

Dan

DanB has the right idea. Use pressure treated and SS hardware, including the staples.

trailer bunks
 

I used pressure treated doug fur for mine.
I bought the wood and let it dry out for about a month inside then painted it with rustoleum to help seal the wood.
Instead of carpet I used "TIE DOWNS" bunk glide-ons.
There a slippery type molded plastic cover that is made for different size bunks. I never liked the idea of the hull sitting on wet carpet all the time. Just a thought. They worked very well for me.
There availible from "overtons" or even cheaper check out www.outdoorsuperstore.com I just looked now and they have them on sale for 2x4 or 2x6 bunks. Search under "self center boat glide ons. These things do every thing they say. They also centered my boat perfectly every time.

My trailer bunks need replacing too. Being that the Mantex factory is here in Michigan (Lansing), I am going to see if it will work as trailer bunk material as well. I guess it is supposed to work well with staples, nails, screws, adhesives, etc.

You can even take it a step further with the staples and use MONEL staples, which are absolutely RUST-PROOF.

I actually used cedar on my 8' outer bunks last year. The only problem is that it does not hold screws as well as the more dense woods, so don't drill the holes any larger than you have to and fill them with liquid nails before putting the screws in. I think the cedar dries out quicker than other woods. This year, I'll be replacing my 12' inner bunks with pressure-treated wood because it is too hard to find a reasonably straight piece of cedar in a 12' length. Getting straight cedar is critical becuse a 2x6 piece of cedar actually measures 2" x 6", so it's really stiff and hard to bend into place.

I'm sure someone will tell me all kinds of reasons why I should not have used cedar, but I thought I'd try it, and it's working great so far.

Has anyone ever tried the synthetic wood used for decks and floating docks? I would imagine you wood (no pun intended puder) never have to replace them as often. Better yet if you can find starboard which is very costly that would last forever.

synthetic wood has very little flexural strength. Needs additional support in flooring applications to avoid sponginess when you walk on it. I'd think that real wood would be a much better choice.

mcollinstn, When you say "synthetic" are you also including composite materials like Mantex that needs additional support as well? Thanks

Cypress

Just a thought, I have an Eagle and wanted to just replace the carpet, I called Eagle asked them for carpet,,, and just for chits and giggles I asked them how much to send me COMPLETE CARPETED REPLACEMENT BUNKS. It was only like $100 more !!!!!!!!!!!!! Ill tell you what for my money it was well worth it,,, just unbolt and rebolt ( I did buy new hardware ) no screwing around unstapling and restapling at a gazzlillion places.

Thanks for the replies. I will give Eagle a call and see how much for new bunks. I like projects, but if for only a few bucks more I can get finished replacement parts it is well worth it to me. :p Thanks again!!

I can't believe nobody mentioned it. Get away from the lag screws, if you don't mind a little more work. I can't tell you how many of those lags are laying around a trailer parking lot. Saw the result when a friends bunk came off while he was loading. You can guess the result! OUCH!

Use a mushroom headed bolt and counter sink this into the bunk before stapling on the carpet. When you fit the now carpeted bunk to the trailer, use a normal stainless nut (with a touch of anti-sieze) to snug the bunk down. Then follow with a nylock stainless nut. It will NEVER come off (or rust). Can't put the nylock on by itself, as there isn't much to keep the bolt from spinning. Once the first nut is on snug, you can go to town on the nylocks.

I checked out an obove average trailer on a friend's Cobalt, and they did this from the factory!

The above idea is good, but taking it one step further corrects the "turning bolt" problem.

With a flat spade bit countersink the bolt hole 3/8-1/2" deep. on the bottom side of the bunk insert a stainless T-nut & thread a regular bolt & washer thru from the top side. Tighten. Now the bolt is "fixed" and will not turn when installing the "draw down nut" on the trailer. It is important to countersink the bolt head & washer below the surface of the bunk, then carpet it (or use the slip strips). I don't like them as I have seen people loose their boats on the ramp. And where will the boat go if the winch line fails? ZOOM!!:eek:

I knew someone would better the idea! ;)

I thought of that back when I redid the trailer, but did not think of slightly counter sinking the T-nut. I didn't like the idea of the T-nut directly on the trailer iron. That way the bolts don't have to be as long. It would look cleaner with one nylock and a washer.
Also don't have the dangling problem of the bolts under the carpet, trying to get them all in the trailer holes.

bunks
 

I used galvanized cariage bolts and counter sunk them.
I think stainless is a waste of money. The wood will need replacing long before the galvanized bolts rust thru.
As far as the boat sliding off with use of the sticks and the winch line breaking, are safety chains or cables being used????
I would never rely on just one strap or cable when pulling a boat up a ramp. Make up a chain or cable just long enough to hook from the base of the winch mast to the bow eye.
Safety First.