THIS REALLY WORKS 4.600 BORE 4.25 STROKE 6.385 EAGLE ROD LUNITI CRANK 565 INCH BLOWER MOTOR 8.5 TO 1 .,,,J&E BLOWER PISTONS GREAT RING PLACMENT ,H BEARINGS ,INCONEL VALVES ,SEVERE DUTY INTAKE VALVES CAM WITH AT LEAST 12 DEGREES MORE EXHAUST THAN INTAKE AS BLOWER HANDLES THAT !! 30K PLUS MORE LIFT ON EXHAUST ,,,,YOU USE A GOOD SET OF HEADS (AIR FLOW REASERCH) AND YOU'LL HAVE ALL THE H.P. AND POWER YOU CAN STAND AND THE MOTOR WILL LIVE ,,PM ME I'LL HELP WITH PISTON DESIGN ECT AND ANY PARTS YOU NEED ,BUT THIS MOTOR WILL SCREAM

P.S. MERLIN BLOCK SHORT DECK BUT TALL WORKS BETTER !!!
P.S.S/// A BLOWER MOTOR WILL MAKE MORE GRUNT AT LOWER RPMS AND NOT BE BEATING ITSELF TO DEATH LOFING AROUND LIKE A NA MOTOR AT CLOSE TO SAME POWER , AND IT WILL LIVE MUCH LONGER IF YOU DON'T DETONATE IT ,SET IT UP RIGHT , !!!!!!!!!!!!!
JUST MY 2CENTS WORTH:D :D :D

I agree once you chip out the big money for a good block why stop at 540. 582 sounds so much better and hay it is 42 more inches and that is almost the 48 inch diffrences in a 503 and 454. :D "there is no replacement for displacement" :D

Here's my suggestion:

Merlin block
Oliver rods
LA billet crank (knife edged)
10:1 JE pistons
Custom pan with windage tray's and crank scrapers
Ported Aluminum Canfield or Brodix heads
(CFE, Advanced Airflow or Sterling)
Titanium intake valves , undercut Inconel exhaust
Titanium retainers
LSM Titanium valvesprings
Ported Brodix intake
(CFE, Advanced Airflow or Sterling)
Custom LSM mechanical roller cam
.780 lift , Dur @.050 268/ 278 on a 112 C/L
Jesel keyway lifters
Jesel rocker arms
Jesel belt drive
Titan oil pump
Keith Eickert valve spring oilers
Keith Eickert lifter oilers
MSD crank trigger ignition
1150 Dominator
Keith Eickert full length cast aluminum headers

I think I would be happy with this setup in my little Scarab !

This 565 seems to be becomming more and more popular..........on the street, strip, and water.

I know that there's always been a debate on rod lengths........but I seem to notice that lately it seems like people are running longer rods - from 6.535 all the way to 6.800 (just from reading).

Sounds like it would be a good blower combo Bobby......sounds like you've had some expereince with this combo. With a good set of heads like you recommended, what type of power do you think you could see with pump gas ?

Just curious

Ratchet

My idea of the prefect 8.0:1 540...

1) Dart Big M block

2) Tall deck...10.200

3) Crank...4.25" Callies Magnum

4) Rods...Oliver +400

5) Pistons...Ross

6) Heads...Canfield 350's

7) Valves...REV

8) Intake...BlowerShop 10-71 :D

9) Cam...Isky hyd roller blower cam

Jon, I hope I am understanding you right. If you're only looking for a 450-500hp because that's all your boat can handle I would say a 540 cubed engine is way overkill for what you want to accomplish----especially a blown 540! I'm quite sure you know a requirement of 450-500hp can be easily accomplished by something like a 502 or even a 454. But if a 540 is what you want you could build that thing super cheap and it would be a real TORQUE MONSTER!

For 450-500hp from 540 inches you could get away with very inexpensive parts like:

*Hydraulic flat tappet cam
*Any non ported cast iron head---probably even some GM "peanut port" (oval port heads)
*Any aluminum dual plane intake manifold
*8.5 comp ratio (very safe)
*Inexpensive aftermarket exhaust system

With those items you could very easily obtain your goal of only mere 450-500hp with a extremely mild 540.

That's one way of looking at it. :)

Ok looks like the block should be a tall deck so that the piston can be taller and not wear funny. I have not seen pricing on the Dart blocks but I know they are probably more money then a merlin block. So lets pick the Merlin block for $1400 bucks.

BLOCK MERLIN TALL DECK $1400.00

Who makes the best crank for a ap like this??? If you have a price then please include that. :D

Kaama I see what you are saying for sure. It is not that my boat can not handle the power but it does not really need it. I am sure there will be times that it will get used :D. I like your thinking however and I guess another possibility for me would be to build the lower like a brik **** house and then use mild heads to save money there if I have to then change over the heads and cam later. I still like the idea of the tall deck block with a stroker.

Jon

I agree with KAAMA and Bobby Daniels.
Getting 500hp from 540 inches is a snap with almost any combination.
I would recommend if you are ever going to install a blower, you build a blower bottom end at least. A blower motor will make 500+hp without the blower and can make 850+ with a little boost and pump gas and run forever. I would try to buy the right parts for the blower motor the first time. A tall deck block, 4.25" stroke, 4.600" bore would be my choice if you can get a Merlin or Merlin II block, if not, 4.500" bore will do. I have seen all the discussion on rod length and I know many theories, but if you tear down similar engines, the long rod has less piston and bore wear and seems to make more power. Smokey Yunick said to use a rod that will connect the crank with the piston with the piston pin as high as you can go and still have a proper ring package. I commonly run the wrist pin with the hole up in the oil ring with no observed adverse affects. On a 4.25" stroke and 10.200" deck, I like 6.800" rods.
I also recommend AFR heads. If you can afford heads now, go ahead and buy what works best right now. The AFR's will outflow anybodys at the same port volume and their exhaust ports are, by far, the best-blowers love this!!!
Pistons need to have "D" shaped cups in them appropriate to the compression ratio you want-low compression and big boost makes more top end power, but more compression with less boost makes a better cruiser. I have run 7.5:1 to 9.2:1 on pump gas, different cams and boost, with great success. I have a cam I have made that will idle, and with 8.5:1, 5.5psi is good for about 850hp at 5,800. If you can, get a hydraulic roller to start with.
Have it made with at LEAST 15* more on the exhaust side, even with AFR heads. You may need more with some other heads.
If you build a complete blower bottom end you can still make the 500hp now and be KILLER with a blower later on. This can be done even with the Chevy head, which can be changed without too much work later. The blower cam will run just fine without the blower. A NA cam does not work well with a blower. I have done this before and if you want any moore input, PM and I'll try to help:D :D :D :D

HEY RACHET /// 850HP ON PUMP GAS IS LOFING WITH THE 565 ABOVE ,JUST LOFING ////I'VE DONE 16 MOTORS 565'S

850hp is just loafing. The point is, you can make a lot more, but at this it should last a l o o n g time!!