Carb to Fi question -- Please respond
#1
Going to the junk yard later today to find a FI system out of a 4.3 S-10, my question is, if i put it all in, the O2 sensor will get all messed up by the water, and i cant just buy a pre programed computer, the computer needs to know how the output is. How do I put the O2 sensor in to not have it get messed up readings by the water for cooling the exhaust??? Could I run dry exhaust with header wrap (3000 hp drag motor, the header with the wrap is only warm, not burning) or will it be to hot under the hatch?
Thanks for any info
Tommy
Thanks for any info
Tommy
#2
Registered
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 349
Likes: 1
From: Orlando, FL
Are you prepared to do all the FI changes??? [IE, fuel pump, high pressure lines, return line to fuel tank, crank position sensor, map sensor, etc]
If you're ready for all that, plus mucho more. I'd either leave the O2 out or find away to install it before the cooling water.
I would think this one through before I'd consider it.
What advantages are you expecting from the change?? If you're looking for max HP, and most of us are, I don't think you'll see an improvement. You might even see a tad less with the FI.
If you're ready for all that, plus mucho more. I'd either leave the O2 out or find away to install it before the cooling water.
I would think this one through before I'd consider it.
What advantages are you expecting from the change?? If you're looking for max HP, and most of us are, I don't think you'll see an improvement. You might even see a tad less with the FI.
#3
Cars and trucks use a very different computer system than is used on marine motors. Depending on the year of the S-10, chances are the computer also controls the functions of the transmission. It also has more engine sensors to worry about than just an O2 sensor. I would also believe that the programming for the p.c.m. will not be calibrated for marine use. It may run lean. You wont be able to use the wiring harness as well. If the truck is a late 95 or newer, the p.c.m. harness ties into the air bag and a.b.s. harness.
I also recommend that you stay away from this modification. I don't see how you would get enough of a return for the time, effort and $$$ needed.
However, if you still want to attempt this, send me your e-mail address, I can forward you a complete wiring diagram for the S-10 computer data lines. Just let me know the year you have.
I also recommend that you stay away from this modification. I don't see how you would get enough of a return for the time, effort and $$$ needed.
However, if you still want to attempt this, send me your e-mail address, I can forward you a complete wiring diagram for the S-10 computer data lines. Just let me know the year you have.
Last edited by Vinny P; 01-19-2003 at 10:38 AM.
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Hello, Guys,
If you are after performance, this way is wrong. The S-10 system in ment to be emissions and fuel friendly in the small truck. Max power was of little consideration. There are systems out there that you can program yourself or get programed for your use. Try Edelbrock. Several companies offer the parts to convert to FI if you modify a carburetor intake. These offer the benefits of FI with the means to tune it.
The O2 sensor will work in the boat until a drop of water hits it, then it will self=destruct. You will still have to have proper fuel mixture at near to full throtle as the O2 sensor does not controll that. OEM car systems are not reasonable to convert to boat use.
There are many other options, too many to go into here. If I can help, post or pm and I'll try to help. I have done this type work a loooong time.
Good Luck!!!!!!!!!
If you are after performance, this way is wrong. The S-10 system in ment to be emissions and fuel friendly in the small truck. Max power was of little consideration. There are systems out there that you can program yourself or get programed for your use. Try Edelbrock. Several companies offer the parts to convert to FI if you modify a carburetor intake. These offer the benefits of FI with the means to tune it.
The O2 sensor will work in the boat until a drop of water hits it, then it will self=destruct. You will still have to have proper fuel mixture at near to full throtle as the O2 sensor does not controll that. OEM car systems are not reasonable to convert to boat use.
There are many other options, too many to go into here. If I can help, post or pm and I'll try to help. I have done this type work a loooong time.
Good Luck!!!!!!!!!
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Hyperbaja, Procharger makes a kit for 4.3's. There are also ways to put a roots type blower on this engine, though the distributor and other things make this a looser. Tubocharging will outrun anything, but is $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
I think a centrifugal is a good, easy to install choice. Whipple would be great, but I don't know if they make a kit-might ask Dustin at Whipplecharged. If not it can be made!! pm or post for more. Also, you can use a blow through set up wilth a carburetor. Also, the aftermarket FI people can make a system for forced induction. I know how.
I think a centrifugal is a good, easy to install choice. Whipple would be great, but I don't know if they make a kit-might ask Dustin at Whipplecharged. If not it can be made!! pm or post for more. Also, you can use a blow through set up wilth a carburetor. Also, the aftermarket FI people can make a system for forced induction. I know how.
#7
Hyper, how many hp is yoru 4.3 rated at?
I used to have a 20 footer with a 5.0 lx in it rated at 230 hp. Boat went 52 mph on gps with that motor. It was a light boat with a 19* bottom.
My point is this: get a new motor, sell the 4.3 to make up some of the cost. You risk the reliability issues with supercharging or turbo charging. And being that this is really your dad's boat, what do you think he will say when you torch a piston or something going WFO on your lake??? Just trying to save you some grief. Been there, done that!!!!!
Find a 5.0 or a 5.7 to bolt in there. Both were options on that boat I'm sure. Should bolt right in for the most part.
I used to have a 20 footer with a 5.0 lx in it rated at 230 hp. Boat went 52 mph on gps with that motor. It was a light boat with a 19* bottom.
My point is this: get a new motor, sell the 4.3 to make up some of the cost. You risk the reliability issues with supercharging or turbo charging. And being that this is really your dad's boat, what do you think he will say when you torch a piston or something going WFO on your lake??? Just trying to save you some grief. Been there, done that!!!!!
Find a 5.0 or a 5.7 to bolt in there. Both were options on that boat I'm sure. Should bolt right in for the most part.
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#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Hello, Guys,
If space allows, the 5.7 or bigger route would, in my opinion, be a better choice. The 5.0, or 305, is, in my opinion, a dog. Your mounts for the front of the engine will have to be relocated forward. I don't know exactly how far-but about 4-41/2". If space, etc. does not permit, low boost centrifugal can be quite effective and safe. You might contact ATI for their offerings.
BE CONSERVATIVE and good luck!
If space allows, the 5.7 or bigger route would, in my opinion, be a better choice. The 5.0, or 305, is, in my opinion, a dog. Your mounts for the front of the engine will have to be relocated forward. I don't know exactly how far-but about 4-41/2". If space, etc. does not permit, low boost centrifugal can be quite effective and safe. You might contact ATI for their offerings.
BE CONSERVATIVE and good luck!
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