Re: poling prop only
 

Darrin - I have some minor nicks in it too. I am not looking at changing the pitch or anything like that, I would just like a nice pollished look and the nicks out. What do you charge for that? Also what are the shipping costs from St. Louis to you and Back, ballpark? Or is this something that I can probably get done locally at any prop shop to save shipping costs, what are your thoughts? Thanks - Eric

Big E, Yes, you can get a prop to shine up the same way. I've done it. Actually thats how I knew that the headers would shine up.

As far as shipping a prop to Darin, I just did and it was just under $13 for UPS ground one way with insurance.

Okay Griff - my next question is taking off the prop. I am pretty mechanically inclined, but have never ever taken off a prop. I do have the prop wrench that came with my boat. It looks simple just bend up the washer tabs and undo the nut. Is that all that theres to it. And the opposite for putting it back on? I always like to know what I am getting into before I try it, I learned it just saves on headaches. Also Griff, how long did it take you to shine the prop by hand, I'm guessing a long time. Maybe I'll try Darin, I have read a lot of good things about him on this page. Thanks - Eric

BigE PROP REPAIR
 

BigE YOURS WOULD BE CONSIRED A BASIC REPAIR,it is the same work that we do to a labbed prop but we do not thin out the blades,it would look new and perform better than new when you get it back,the charge is 150.00 plus 15.00 shipping back to you,ups will actually box the prop for you if you take it there and its not that much,Thanks for the compliments:) and if you want to do this drop a check in the box with the prop or call and place the order with M/C or VISA. Thanks Eric:cool: oh you are on the money on the prop removal:D

...Don't chrome them....it's not that hard to polish them just a little elbow grease....and as Griff said MOTHERS MAG & WHEEL POLISH

I usually start with a little scotch brite..depending on the surface to be polished..wetsanding works well too 600 - 800 - 1200 grit.ect......this piece is just a rough finished srap of 3 " pipe.. a little scotchbrite on the grinder then hit it with 800 and then 1200 grit paper by hand, sanding in the same direction every stroke..and then the mothers...the harder you rub the more brilliant the shine.100% cotton and good towels work well..(my wife hates it ) .i did this in about 5 minutes...for satin pipes get some 1200 grit or finer and test qa spot on the inside or bottom somewhere otu of sight when installed....then start with the mothers....it's worth the effort......cloth flapper wheels and a battery drill work well to...just don't hit your workpiece whiththe end of the drill.....have fun....

after scotch brite

forgot the sanding pic...:eek:

after sanding and polishing....i think you get the idea...piece of cake.....I love polished stainless ....of course you could bypass all the work and find a decent chrome shop in your area and have them polish them for you ......

Nasty hit it on the head however I would continue to wet sand up to 2000 grit and then use jewelers rouge and a small pad on a variable speed drill. The smaller the sanding scratches, the easier to polish. They have kits at Sears Hardware. Been there done that and turned out awesome. Then polish with a Mothers.

Paul

another alternative
 

just a suggestion,

If you don't like the blueing effect from stainless steel exhaust. Take them to someplace that coats the headers for racecars.
Mine are ceramic coated, NO DISCOLORING, and they look great. going on 4 years now, still look awesome. It'll probably cost around 275.00 to have it done, but well worth it. Jet-hot coatings would be a great place to call about having done. No need to touch up or polish every month. Just wipe em' off w/ a towell.

tell them s/c 5319 sent ya.