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Old 01-22-2003 | 01:23 PM
  #11  
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From: Oakville,ON
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Big E,
My cables are the Red Morse push/pull type. The indicators are Merc Bluewater type. The cable (as I recall) has about 2" of thread on the end for adjustment. The small indicator slide fits through the threaded cable end and is held in place with nuts on each side. On my setup there is enough room under the dash to loosen the nuts and move the indicator slide either up or down.

Canada Jeff,
My indicators have several positions (2 or 3) above zero and about 8 below zero. That way when you go from a level tab (ie. 0) to a fully retracted tab, you still get an accurate readout from the indicator. All readouts are either plus or minus from your level (0) position so it's easy to remember, even for me.

Last edited by floatingphil; 01-22-2003 at 01:27 PM.
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Old 01-22-2003 | 04:57 PM
  #12  
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From: Chesterfield Mo/Loto
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just remember tabs down raises the transom and there for lowers the bow, which is good for smoothing out the rough stuff, tabs up no drag alows your drives to trim out and raise you bow less boat in the water fsster speed and any combination inbetween of the two is a compromise for the situation your boating in, there are times that the water will be rough and if you want to run fast with the tabs up you'll be launching off ways alot which is non productive, no prop in the water no forward movement but you have to trim out for the speed so if you drag the tabs alittle it causes the boat to run flatter and there for no launching so you keep the drives in the water and move forward its all a matter of getting out there and try different settings to see what gives you the best ride and speed.
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Old 01-22-2003 | 05:26 PM
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Big E from what I read into what you said your friend said was not to trim up the bow when you are trying to pin it down with the tabs, waist of HP. I run real close to neutral trim when using the tabs to pin down the bow.I do believe that time is on your side and you will be flying by the seat of your paints before long and you will not even have to look at the indicators to feel what is right for the moment.

Last edited by FloridianSon; 01-22-2003 at 08:57 PM.
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Old 01-22-2003 | 08:42 PM
  #14  
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Originally posted by FloridianSon
Big E from what I read into what you said your friend said was not to trim up the bow when you are trying to pin it down with the tabs, waist of HP. I run real close to netural trim when using the tabs to pin down the bow.I do believe that time is on your side and you will be flying by the seat of your paints before long and you will not even have to look at the indicators to feel what is right for the moment.
FLSon - when you say neutral trim, I am assuming that you are not trimming up the sterndrive at all or very little. Right? You are right practice makes perfect. I would like to ride along with someone who is a pro racer and see how they would run my boat, it would be a great education for me just starting out in a larger boat. Thanks - Eric
 
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Old 01-22-2003 | 08:54 PM
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As I see it negitive trim to get on plane, drive tucked under. Neutral trim the drive is at a good right angle to the hull. Positive trim for bow up and best speed,but then again with out my glasses it can't see squat.

Last edited by FloridianSon; 01-22-2003 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 01-22-2003 | 09:19 PM
  #16  
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Originally posted by FloridianSon
As I see it negitive trim to get on plane, neutral trim,positive trim for bow up and best speed,but then again with out my glasses it can't see squat.
Got it on the neg, neutral and positive!

I'm the same way, but only near sighted, instead of without my glasses, you can't see squat meaning guages (far sighted), I am, without my glasses or contacts I can't see other boats in front of me or behind me. Unless you are one of those Bifocal guys where squat means near or far, if thats the case the next step for you is blindness. I am only near sighted, blind at things far away, close up I don't need glasses, I have a couple of more steps to go to get to blindness. Eric
 
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