Looking for a 130 or 120 thermostat..
02-17-2003, 03:19 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Looking for a 130 or 120 thermostat..
I am looking for a 130 or 120 degree thermostat for a blower application. Tried all the local auto parts stores with the expected response, what year car is this for? Anyone have any ideas?
02-17-2003, 03:54 PM
#2
Charter Member
Tim, simple. Just don't tell the auto guys its for a boat or SC. That really confuses them as they don't know what to do if they can't look it up under a brand b car. Might have trouble finding a 120 or 130 from them though.
BTW, if it would help, I have a brand new standard 140* stat I ordered from Merc last fall and also a 142* high volume stat from my motor in stock form. It has 3) 3/16 holes drilled in it for bleeding the air and to bypass some water pressure. Yours if you want them. Wife is going to post office tommorrow, let me know tonight.
Jerry
BTW, if it would help, I have a brand new standard 140* stat I ordered from Merc last fall and also a 142* high volume stat from my motor in stock form. It has 3) 3/16 holes drilled in it for bleeding the air and to bypass some water pressure. Yours if you want them. Wife is going to post office tommorrow, let me know tonight.
Jerry
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
02-17-2003, 04:32 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
Jerry,
Yeah that would be way cool, I could use the 142. The reason for the 130 was to eliminate the possibility of not having enough flow to keep the heads cool. Think of it this way, the thermostat opens at 140. Everything is fine so far; if it will not flow enough water or creates too much backpressure the dump valve will open. Thermostat is still opening at 140 but temps may and probably would rise. If a 130 were used it would open a bit sooner and give you a 10 degree margin of safety, if flow rate were still a problem it eventually would climb to the same temp, just take a little longer? The high flow 140 may make this a moot point.
I am probably going to use the Stainless Marine thermostat housing, pn 04-0102500. It has the correct bolt pattern for the B&M. I think in the middle of the summer the restrictor will be fine and flow more water but I will need to be out on the water dialing in when the water temps would be in the 40's. I also like to get out in December if the weather breaks. The thermostat would help get the oil temps up faster as well.
I followed all the old threads on the dump valves etc. Seems to me the best way is to plumb in an adjustable dump valve right after the oil cooler and set it for block pressure of 25. I have been pondering if a 1/2-inch would be better than a 3/4. It seems to me that the 3/4 may bleed off pressure too quickly and cause a cyclic open and close. It really would depend upon how much excess flow/pressure you had to start with. The McMaster Carr catalogue has both for less than 40 bucks.
Tim T.
6537 Jacob Drive
Westport, Ky 40077
Yeah that would be way cool, I could use the 142. The reason for the 130 was to eliminate the possibility of not having enough flow to keep the heads cool. Think of it this way, the thermostat opens at 140. Everything is fine so far; if it will not flow enough water or creates too much backpressure the dump valve will open. Thermostat is still opening at 140 but temps may and probably would rise. If a 130 were used it would open a bit sooner and give you a 10 degree margin of safety, if flow rate were still a problem it eventually would climb to the same temp, just take a little longer? The high flow 140 may make this a moot point.
I am probably going to use the Stainless Marine thermostat housing, pn 04-0102500. It has the correct bolt pattern for the B&M. I think in the middle of the summer the restrictor will be fine and flow more water but I will need to be out on the water dialing in when the water temps would be in the 40's. I also like to get out in December if the weather breaks. The thermostat would help get the oil temps up faster as well.
I followed all the old threads on the dump valves etc. Seems to me the best way is to plumb in an adjustable dump valve right after the oil cooler and set it for block pressure of 25. I have been pondering if a 1/2-inch would be better than a 3/4. It seems to me that the 3/4 may bleed off pressure too quickly and cause a cyclic open and close. It really would depend upon how much excess flow/pressure you had to start with. The McMaster Carr catalogue has both for less than 40 bucks.
Tim T.
6537 Jacob Drive
Westport, Ky 40077
02-17-2003, 05:23 PM
#4
Tim, will do. Going to send 4 stats. 2 reg, 2 high flow. All 140*
Have I got a deal for you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
IF you are interested, I bought an all brass pressure relief valve from Teague last yr when I was trying to run with a t-stat and control the pressure. It is a 1/2". Also bought a SS adapter from them 3/4-1/2. Paid $106 for it then. (Included next day shipping, I was pissed and money was not an issue then)
It didn't work for me. I had it hooked on the port on the crossover in the direct flow as I mentioned to you last week. Maybe where you are thinking is best as it seems to be the location of choice with others. I can email a picture of it if you want. Will sell it $35 if interested. I have no need for it. I can send it along with the stats. You can either just buy it or try it 1st if you want.
Jerry
Have I got a deal for you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
IF you are interested, I bought an all brass pressure relief valve from Teague last yr when I was trying to run with a t-stat and control the pressure. It is a 1/2". Also bought a SS adapter from them 3/4-1/2. Paid $106 for it then. (Included next day shipping, I was pissed and money was not an issue then)
It didn't work for me. I had it hooked on the port on the crossover in the direct flow as I mentioned to you last week. Maybe where you are thinking is best as it seems to be the location of choice with others. I can email a picture of it if you want. Will sell it $35 if interested. I have no need for it. I can send it along with the stats. You can either just buy it or try it 1st if you want.
Jerry
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
02-17-2003, 05:59 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
Jerry,
Go ahead and throw it in the box. I will call you when I get back from a work assignment. I remember you mentioning that you did put a dump valve in the crossover. Saw the old post, that blows, 3 times the price the vendor sold it for retail. What PSI is the dump valve and is it adjustable?
The location should not have had that much effect on its opening, if you were running a t-stat with it dumping anywhere else other than overboard, the bypassed water may have been working its way back and hitting the back of the t-stat and giving it false cold? Did the t-stat housing have a bypass? By dumping essentially in parallel with the block feed the flow would split between block and valve. By dumping prior to block feed the remaining water is forced to go through the block. I need to have a talk with our fire chief, he designs pumps etc. That will confuse the situation. I can see now that this is could be a PITA. There is a simple answer out and I will do my damm level best to make it hard!
Go ahead and throw it in the box. I will call you when I get back from a work assignment. I remember you mentioning that you did put a dump valve in the crossover. Saw the old post, that blows, 3 times the price the vendor sold it for retail. What PSI is the dump valve and is it adjustable?
The location should not have had that much effect on its opening, if you were running a t-stat with it dumping anywhere else other than overboard, the bypassed water may have been working its way back and hitting the back of the t-stat and giving it false cold? Did the t-stat housing have a bypass? By dumping essentially in parallel with the block feed the flow would split between block and valve. By dumping prior to block feed the remaining water is forced to go through the block. I need to have a talk with our fire chief, he designs pumps etc. That will confuse the situation. I can see now that this is could be a PITA. There is a simple answer out and I will do my damm level best to make it hard!
Platinum Member
02-17-2003, 06:20 PM
#7
Tim, it is adjustable. Teague said adjust it to 15#. I dumped overboard. Not sure about the rating because the maker says it is a 50# and up. Teague says this is what to use. Who knows!
Originally when I bough the boat, it had a tee in the t-stat housing, with 2 -6an lines going to crossover at the 2 side ports. Also had the t-stat with 3) 3/16 holes. Owner said it worked for him fine. I blew intake gaskets every time I took it the boat out. Turned out the 2 -6an lines had almost plugged up from water deposits, hence no bypass. I just noticed the 2 lines being plugged last summer. I still don't see how enough water could have bypasses thru the tee in order to relieve pressure. Me thinks seller lied to me. Will ship it too so you can scope it out.
http://www.wattsreg.com/valvelookup/
relief valves> water pressure relief valves> 530
Originally when I bough the boat, it had a tee in the t-stat housing, with 2 -6an lines going to crossover at the 2 side ports. Also had the t-stat with 3) 3/16 holes. Owner said it worked for him fine. I blew intake gaskets every time I took it the boat out. Turned out the 2 -6an lines had almost plugged up from water deposits, hence no bypass. I just noticed the 2 lines being plugged last summer. I still don't see how enough water could have bypasses thru the tee in order to relieve pressure. Me thinks seller lied to me. Will ship it too so you can scope it out.
http://www.wattsreg.com/valvelookup/
relief valves> water pressure relief valves> 530
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
02-17-2003, 06:43 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
Looks like this project is starting to come together! Do you still have the housing with t-stat? Maybe make me a package deal. I think with the lines cleared out and a dump valve of some sort that the gasket problem should be solved.
Last edited by BadDog; 02-17-2003 at 07:01 PM.
02-18-2003, 10:14 AM
#9
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T-stat housing
Tim,
If you are going to a different T-stat housing, I would like to try your old one. It should be the same as mine. Since you did not have any temp issues before, this should totally rule out the t-stat housing as the source for my temp fluctuation problem.
Thanks!
If you are going to a different T-stat housing, I would like to try your old one. It should be the same as mine. Since you did not have any temp issues before, this should totally rule out the t-stat housing as the source for my temp fluctuation problem.
Thanks!
