Boat's been sitting 3 years - now what?
#1
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Deeee-troit!
Posts: 3,358
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Boat's been sitting 3 years - now what?
OK, guys, here's the deal. A friend of the family has a 1988 or 89 Regal Commodore (not the Lionel Richey kind ) that has not seen water in 3 years. He's now decided to sell it, so guess who gets to help get this thing ready for the water?
I have not seen the boat, so I don't know just how bad it is yet. I know for sure that one of the cockpit seats will need replaced (plywood backing is all rotted). I'm pretty sure the boat has twin 305 Mercs with either Alpha 1's or possibly Bravo 2's.
Any suggestions for firing the motors? I figure I'll have to recharge or replace the batteries, all the plugs will need to be changed, what about the drive bellows? Hoses/belts? Should I fog the cylinders, if so, with what?
Basically, what would you if you had a boat that had been sitting on blocks for the past three years?
Many thanks...
I have not seen the boat, so I don't know just how bad it is yet. I know for sure that one of the cockpit seats will need replaced (plywood backing is all rotted). I'm pretty sure the boat has twin 305 Mercs with either Alpha 1's or possibly Bravo 2's.
Any suggestions for firing the motors? I figure I'll have to recharge or replace the batteries, all the plugs will need to be changed, what about the drive bellows? Hoses/belts? Should I fog the cylinders, if so, with what?
Basically, what would you if you had a boat that had been sitting on blocks for the past three years?
Many thanks...
#2
Gold Member
Gold Member
Drain fuel, change oil,and both fuel and oil filters, pull plugs spray some sort of penetrating oil(use a lot) in plug holes(I like PB B'laster) let oil sit in cyl. for a few days and try to spin engines by hand(using crank bolt). Then repeat.
Carbs are most likley full of crap from fuel evaporating, you should pull apart and spray them out with good carb cleaner, and replace gaskets.
Check dist caps and rotors for corrosion on the inside.
Refill fuel tanks with fresh fuel, and some dry gas, put in new oil, and batterys. Leave the plugs out at this time (engines will spin easier) leave fuel line off carbs, attach rubber fuel line to open end and run OUT!! of boat to a container it will help to flush out what ever is in line (water,rust) when it runs clean, reattach to carbs, put new plugs in and try to start.
Good luck
Carbs are most likley full of crap from fuel evaporating, you should pull apart and spray them out with good carb cleaner, and replace gaskets.
Check dist caps and rotors for corrosion on the inside.
Refill fuel tanks with fresh fuel, and some dry gas, put in new oil, and batterys. Leave the plugs out at this time (engines will spin easier) leave fuel line off carbs, attach rubber fuel line to open end and run OUT!! of boat to a container it will help to flush out what ever is in line (water,rust) when it runs clean, reattach to carbs, put new plugs in and try to start.
Good luck
#3
Or since he is trying to sell it you could charge the batteries up and fire the sucker up to see what happens. Unless you want it, then do all the stuff Sonic said and break the engines in like new ones. No WOT for 10 hours, no steady throttle for more than 15 minutes, etc.
#4
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Deeee-troit!
Posts: 3,358
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Depending on what kind of shape it's in, I'm considering buying it just to have a cruiser / place on the water. Of course, from my conversations with the owner, I'm getting the feeling that he may have a somewhat, ahem, inflated idea of what it's worth...
Besides, I wouldn't feel right doing it half-assed and then selling it to some poor schmuck. Might head down to the marina this weekend and take a look, then I'll have a better idea of just how much work it needs.
Besides, I wouldn't feel right doing it half-assed and then selling it to some poor schmuck. Might head down to the marina this weekend and take a look, then I'll have a better idea of just how much work it needs.
#5
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
#1: Find out HOW it was winterized (drained, heated, filled w antifreeze, whether the drains were reinstalled, etc..)
Check the bellows, etc, at full up trim. Look for cracks and dry rot.
Dump some carb cleaner into the fuel.
Remove the water separator/fuel filters and pour them out into a bucket. If the fuel looks fairly decent, don't bother with draining the tanks. Refill the separators with fresh fuel and spin them back on.
Go ahead and take 2 new batteries with you to work on the boat. They can be out of your other boat, etc, but don't even think about trying to work on the boat with old batteries. Take the old ones to AutoZone and have them put on the machine. If somehow, they check ok, then feel lucky.
Check the oil and add if necessary.
Put muffs on it and get ready to fire it up.
Use WD40 as "starting fluid" (it works, and has lube quality to it). The carb bowls will be empty so expect to keep spraying WD40 a few shots will the carb starts helping out.
Run it on the hose and check for leaks, proper thermostat operation, etc. Expect it to run ragged till the carb cleans itself up.
After reaching full temp, change the oil and drive lube.
If the bellows, etc appeared ok, then plop it in the water.
Start and let idle. Lookj all around the transom area for water leaking.
Take 2 spare water sep canisters with you.
Go ride her. Be easy on the motors till you run the bulk of the old fuel out. After the first 20 minutes, replace the separator filters regardless of how it has acted. Pour the contents into the bucket you brought with you and examine for water and contaminants. Good gives you hope for the rest of the tank contents - bad means you will keep reusing the old canisters a few more times.
If she runs acceptably, continue on the old plugs thru the whole tankfull. After refilling with fresh gas and running another hour, then replace the plugs with new ones.
If the boat has been stored outdoors, there will be more change for dryrot on bellows, etc..
If stored covered or indoors, you might be surprised at how good everything is...
I've helped with several boats that have sat for as long as seven years without being touched. Very minimal trouble on boats that were in good condition when stored. ZERO trouble on boats that were fogged and StaBil added..
Check the bellows, etc, at full up trim. Look for cracks and dry rot.
Dump some carb cleaner into the fuel.
Remove the water separator/fuel filters and pour them out into a bucket. If the fuel looks fairly decent, don't bother with draining the tanks. Refill the separators with fresh fuel and spin them back on.
Go ahead and take 2 new batteries with you to work on the boat. They can be out of your other boat, etc, but don't even think about trying to work on the boat with old batteries. Take the old ones to AutoZone and have them put on the machine. If somehow, they check ok, then feel lucky.
Check the oil and add if necessary.
Put muffs on it and get ready to fire it up.
Use WD40 as "starting fluid" (it works, and has lube quality to it). The carb bowls will be empty so expect to keep spraying WD40 a few shots will the carb starts helping out.
Run it on the hose and check for leaks, proper thermostat operation, etc. Expect it to run ragged till the carb cleans itself up.
After reaching full temp, change the oil and drive lube.
If the bellows, etc appeared ok, then plop it in the water.
Start and let idle. Lookj all around the transom area for water leaking.
Take 2 spare water sep canisters with you.
Go ride her. Be easy on the motors till you run the bulk of the old fuel out. After the first 20 minutes, replace the separator filters regardless of how it has acted. Pour the contents into the bucket you brought with you and examine for water and contaminants. Good gives you hope for the rest of the tank contents - bad means you will keep reusing the old canisters a few more times.
If she runs acceptably, continue on the old plugs thru the whole tankfull. After refilling with fresh gas and running another hour, then replace the plugs with new ones.
If the boat has been stored outdoors, there will be more change for dryrot on bellows, etc..
If stored covered or indoors, you might be surprised at how good everything is...
I've helped with several boats that have sat for as long as seven years without being touched. Very minimal trouble on boats that were in good condition when stored. ZERO trouble on boats that were fogged and StaBil added..
#6
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Deeee-troit!
Posts: 3,358
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I *think* it has been properly winterized - the guy always had the marina work on it, he's not exactly Mr. Goodwrench. What I don't know is whether it was winterized 3 years ago, or every fall. If it was done 3 years ago and nothing since, I have a bad feeling it's not going to be pretty. If he had the job done each fall, it might not be to bad.
Boat was stored outside, but I think it was shrinkwrapped.
Boat was stored outside, but I think it was shrinkwrapped.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
PicChic
General Boating Discussion
6
12-12-2007 01:32 PM