The only Lightnings at $1400 a set will be used as far as I know from shopping around. Lightnings are great headers but they are going to be $2500 retail! I managed to buy two lightly used pair for about $1100 apiece, and I was lucky I think. Why not go back to the seller and determine exactly what you have engine wise? As some have said the block numbers do not mean a thing if they have been remanufactured. Someone should know what is in them. As far as value received for money spent goes, you definitely need headers, not manifolds, and buy some K&N intakes/flame arrestors to flow as much air in as the headers can flow exhaust out. Have you checked to see if you have roller rockers as opposed to stock rockers? This might give you a clue as to what these blocks really are. Let me know if I can give you any other help. Bob.

no roller rockers, cheapesyt price i've found on lightnings about 1700.00 a pair.....

330s or 440s
 

BUY them! Now. Bob. Seriously, I would go back to this seller with the sales agrrement, there is one right, that specifies the 440s and demand that he stand up and do the right thing. NY has some pretty tough fraud laws don't they?

If you indeed have 330s, you are going to gain a very small amount of horsepower from headers according to Lightning, but still you will be much better off than w/o them, and you certainly can not use the log manifolds that you pictured. Some K&N flame arrestors at $80 apiece or so will help a little still. Good luck.

Well it was a word of mouth agreement, So i don't have a leg to stand on, and i don't think he knew what they were.... he was told they were 440's from the guy he bought the boat from.... such is life i guess.... the the intake side of the heads looks bigger than the small peanut ports, and it supposedly has a fatter than stock cam, so we will see i guess..... i'll buy the headers now , and the flame arresters, and see what the boat does, i can reuse these parts again so its not a waste...
Right now i just want to get this thing together before summer...

I want to thank everyone on here for all the help and guidence...

Keep us posted. Hope all goes well:D :D :D

Call lightning direct at 909-678-5631

I think it's a good idea as well to add the aftermarket hi-perf exhaust. You will most likely see an increase in RPM and might pick up about 1 MPH----MAYBE! The new exhaust will give your engines a much better appearance and they will give you a more thunderous, racey sound that we all like.

Stainless Marine is a good hi-perf manifold type of exhaust system. They will last longer than the Lightning headers, but won't make as much power as the Lightning headers will. The Stainless Marine exhausts are reasonably priced as well. I think you'd be happy with either brand. Which ever you choose, put them on and go boating this summer and save the upgrades for the winter. Have fun! :)

Throw the engine hatch away and put some Zoomie headers on it!:crazy: :crazy: :crazy:

I would agree with KAAMA

The 330 exhaust port has a venturi diameter of 1.5 inches. The valve lift is Im' guessing under .500 making a small window area. Between these two, you have a choke point. I dont think adding exhaust will help without a decent flowing exhaust port.

Maybe you misunderstood the guy:
Are you sure he said "440 cyclones"?
and not
440 CLONES!???
:D

I have had lots of luck with CMI's. A bit expensive but I found they were really easy to work with when I had custom tailpipes made. Do you know what year the 330's are? Don't the older ones (early eightes) have the large oval port heads which can be worked? Not sure if anyone recommeded this, but I would pull an intake and check port size to help determine exactly what you have (read through the post quickly so someone may have recommeded this already).

33 " Centers
 

Headers have to custom made for 33" centers so i'm at best 3 weeks out... and i have to measure them , so do i go with the bassett headers he had on the 540's??they are full water jacket headers not like the ones they are making today water injected...(he said he paid $ 9000.00 for them full polished stainless...
or do i get performance manifolds what the difference between good manifolds and full headers???

The $3000 he wants I don't think is to bad.
I don't think your going to get full use of them with the 330's, or what ever they may be. I think headers and blowers go together.
Otherwise I think manifolds are the way to go.
Stainless Marinemakes a nice set-up, but the two sets will cost more than the $3000.

xcav8

I'm new to the game to, and hears my 411: .40 over 454 to 468, Merlin Grumpy Jenkins SQUARE PORT assembled heads 310cc 280
stainless severe duty valves 1,300.00 pair assembled(No real need for aluminum...whats a few pounds on a boat) . Speed Pro 10.00to 1 coated pistons 600.00 a set. Nice Crower or Crane hydr. cam around .600 lift with lifters 125.00. Chevy marine high rise single plane manifold(2500-6500rpm) 300.00. Your holley will be more than enough for the rpm range you want(5000-5200)
This combo with a 780 prepped holley, Gill offshore set-up and an MSD ign. 500.00 running 38 degrees advance ran me alittle over 520hp. at 5250 rpm. The blocks are 4bolt cast crank and rods(hi perf. chevy stuff, but not crazy) that were polished and BALANCED
by the builder. Beautiful thing is, motors and carbs all done cost me 4100.00 each. The other beautiful thing is I can get close to 600hp. if I dare to go into small block land (6000+ rpm). The big nut is the exhausts. You can't make good power without good exhaust. TRS will handle it no prob(others in this cite talk about 6400rpm with small blocks all day) Prop it right and you should get mid 70s. I scored the Gill set-ups for BOTH motors for 2400.00
which is way below cost, so I sorta cheated. GOOD LUCK!!!

I agree with JimV that headers will not do much for your combination. I've run a 330 before and they are not 98lb weaklings as everybody would have you believe. My 2 cents is to do some research and find a hydraulic flat tappet cam that makes peak torque in the RPM range that you will be running most of the time. An Ultradyne 276/286 would be a great choice. The peanut port heads need a lot of work or find some Dart oval port heads with a dual plane manifold like the Edelbrock Performer. The Qjet carbs can be blueprinted and in my opinion are one of the best carbs for a boat. I used Brad Urbans Carburator Shop to do mine years ago but I'm not sure if they're still around. Jet Performance also does Qjets. Between heads, intakes and blurprinting the carbs you'll spend $2k per motor and get 90% of what the rich guys are getting from buying all the expensive stuff. Prop it correctly and you'll have a very reliable, very fuel efficient combination.

BTW, I have DUI ignitions and heartily recommend them as well.

I agree. If the 330s run well, go out and have a good time this summer. Worry about major upgrades and the headaches that go with it at some other time.

When the weather is good, it's all about up-time, not the extra 5-mph!!!

JohnJan... I did much of what you say on my twin 330hps. I am at the propping stage now. What would you suggest for a max rpm on cast rotating assemblies? Mercruiser says 4200-4600. I've been spinning them to 5000 with no problem, but am looking to move up a little in prop.

BT :cool:

A friend of mine had a 24 Baja Outlaw with a 330. He used to run it wide open for 20 minutes at a time, about 4800 rpm. After 5 years he sold it. The new owner blew the Bravo once but the engine ran fine until I lost track a couple years later. I have never heard of anyone breaking a cast crank in a bbc. A few years ago in a car magazine, John Lingenfelter got 510 hp out of a 454 with large oval ports using hydraulic flat tappets, Holly 850. 500 hp is not difficult with a 454. And the bottom end seems to be good for 500 hp and 5000 rpm.

I had Lightening build me a set of headers on 33" centers and have been very happy with them. I would recomend them to anyone. I also have 2 weiand excelerators and 1" spacers that 40 Scarab talked about that are just lying around taking up space. I was going to send them to a swap meet but if you are intrested I'll let them go cheap. Square port though.

Wow as always alot of 'advice' here!! Sounds like alot ton of different directions. You're 'rebuilt whatever they are are going to get you on the water quick, figure out if you like the boat and determine how fast you want to go ( which will change as you become more comfortable). Those logs are just that. Buy a used set of gils -- 40 scarab has some-- you can always sell them for the same as you paid next year when you build/buy your 502's. Save you're money and build something good, my experience is you have NO idea what you've got until it breaks!!

My 3 cents canadian!

Anyone know if the gill's or any other aftrermarket stuff will clear 33inch centers ?????

What's the standard spread for the Bravo's????

There's are pair of Gil's listed under parts for sale with silent choise. $1500 for the pair. You'd probably be able to sell the riser's

33" spread
 

Being that you have trs, and depending how long thwe risers are you should have a fair amount of rubber exhaust hose from riser to the tip. Not that its very flexible but it should spread 1.5 inches. Even if i had to cut and weld the end of the tip on a small angle to make sure that no water leaks, it's cheaper than getting a custom set of exhaust made up for now, i just keep thinking do it cheap and decent to get you going then decide what you really want as your having a couple of drinks on the water this summer.
I paid bigmoney for a set of ' rebuilt motors' and they're now in getting done properly after just 40hrs. It doesn't sound like the seller knew too much about yours to begin with, could have just been a Varsol overhaul. :(
If you're going to do any salt water running i was told to stay away from the cheaper lightnings (1600 $) the inner tube is stainless while the outer is steel. In order to get both stainless you have to pay ---$2100/pr

What i'm worried about , is the center two manifolds touching each other..... anyone know if these after market manifolds will clear each other with 33'' centers????

are you talking 33" centers between one motors tips ? That's not what matters , it's the center to center between motors--- what's that???

the measurement from center to center of the engines in the boat
is only 33" , from what i understand most twins are 35 - 36"
centers

I stand corrected -- just went out and measured, 28" per motor is somewhat standard, and with 36" center of motor to center of motor i have 6" between the Imco's. Hope that helps. Dave

Mine are at 33" centers and I have gils, there is 1/4' between the manifolds. They are not fun to get on and off but it can be done. I now just pull the motor, manifolds and all.

Yes that helps thx guys