Bellows warning for TRS owners
#1
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Bellows warning for TRS owners
Learn from my mistake. I failed to check my bellows last fall, even though I knew one was getting soft. A couple of weeks ago I discovered it had a hole. In pulling the outdrive, water ran out from around the drive shaft, and some remained in the void between the rear tailstock bearing and the front tailstock bearing. It had been there since boating last fall.
In the picture, you can see the rear bearing and in the middle, the splined coupling with the fwd bearing around it. The lake water was between the two. Can't immange what salt water would have done.
In the picture, you can see the rear bearing and in the middle, the splined coupling with the fwd bearing around it. The lake water was between the two. Can't immange what salt water would have done.
#2
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This picture shows the inside of the spline. Here is where mistake number two happened. I assumed the spline was solid, and used a gear puller to remove the siezed rear bearing. Instead of spanning the rear bearing and pulling against that, I inserted a 1/4 drive extention and socket into the splined coupling and pulled against that. At this point, I did not know it was a mistake.
#3
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As the splined coupling turned inside of the bearing, but the bearing did not, with the help of OSO, I concluded the fwd bearing was also siezed due to the water sitting next to it all winter. This requires pulling the engine.
Once the engine is out, it is simple to remove the tail stock and access the oil seal and fwd bearing. NOTE: pay attention to where the oil seal is located. You can easily put it in too far, and then the rubber middle will not seal on the coupling.
At this point I inserted a finger into the splined coupling and felt a loose part floating free. I almost had a melt down, because this repair kept snowballing and getting uglier. To fix this loose part required tearing into the transmission. Something NONE of us there wanted to do. We even thought about sending it to a transmission shop, but concluded they know these well enough that they can reassemble a "basket case" as easily as a whole unit. So we ventured in.
Once the engine is out, it is simple to remove the tail stock and access the oil seal and fwd bearing. NOTE: pay attention to where the oil seal is located. You can easily put it in too far, and then the rubber middle will not seal on the coupling.
At this point I inserted a finger into the splined coupling and felt a loose part floating free. I almost had a melt down, because this repair kept snowballing and getting uglier. To fix this loose part required tearing into the transmission. Something NONE of us there wanted to do. We even thought about sending it to a transmission shop, but concluded they know these well enough that they can reassemble a "basket case" as easily as a whole unit. So we ventured in.
#4
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Oops! Wrong picture, though it is of us pulling the engine down on the family farm!
Try this picture for the above write up.
When we pulled the tail stock, ATF flowed out, and it appeared milky. We concluded the oil seal leaked over the winter, and water got past the rear trans bearing (upstream of the socket extention) and into the tranmission.
Try this picture for the above write up.
When we pulled the tail stock, ATF flowed out, and it appeared milky. We concluded the oil seal leaked over the winter, and water got past the rear trans bearing (upstream of the socket extention) and into the tranmission.
Last edited by Chart; 05-06-2003 at 05:37 PM.
#5
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The loose part is pictured to the left of the transmission, sitting on the shop towel. It is an expansion cup that sits over the fwd end of the splined coupler. It is what I dislodged with the puller and extention removing the first bearing. Because of this quarter-sized piece of pot metal, we had to completly disassemble the transmission. There are 1.9 Jagillion parts in there, and some are spring loaded! We made it through more from dumb luck and fear than from knowledge or skill. We went slow, and tried not to panic at key points. Actually, it is very logical and straight forward, but I hope to never be back in one again.
BTW, Two 6x6's under each motor mount, and one 6x6 under the transmission or one 4x4 under the flywheel housing works GREAT. Kept the engine very stable.
BTW, Two 6x6's under each motor mount, and one 6x6 under the transmission or one 4x4 under the flywheel housing works GREAT. Kept the engine very stable.
#6
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So, in conclusion: Because I tried to get the last good out of my bellows, I had to:
Replace the rear tail stock bearing
Pull the engine
Replace the front tail stock bearing
Replace the oil seal X 2 (Cause the first one always gets bent)
Remove the transmission
Disassemble the transmission and replace the #^%*&@ expansion cup
Reassemble and replace the transmission and hope like heck it works (I still don't know)
Reinstall the engine, etc.
Things I learned:
Go buy a engine leveler. (big screw that goes between the engine and the pulling equipment, that adjusts the balance of the swinging engine) They are worth the $40.
Install the engine from the stern if possible. It works slick that way. In the past we pulled them from the side, and the engine hits everything possible on the way out/in.
DON'T ASSUME THE @^*$% SPLINE IS SOLID.
And oh yeah, check and replace the bellows often.
Replace the rear tail stock bearing
Pull the engine
Replace the front tail stock bearing
Replace the oil seal X 2 (Cause the first one always gets bent)
Remove the transmission
Disassemble the transmission and replace the #^%*&@ expansion cup
Reassemble and replace the transmission and hope like heck it works (I still don't know)
Reinstall the engine, etc.
Things I learned:
Go buy a engine leveler. (big screw that goes between the engine and the pulling equipment, that adjusts the balance of the swinging engine) They are worth the $40.
Install the engine from the stern if possible. It works slick that way. In the past we pulled them from the side, and the engine hits everything possible on the way out/in.
DON'T ASSUME THE @^*$% SPLINE IS SOLID.
And oh yeah, check and replace the bellows often.
#7
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Hey Chart
Thanks to your advise, I'm firmly decided to replace all that @#*$ in the transom assemblies because I have TWO to cause me the kind of grief that you went through, and with this boat and its ever deepening mysterious past, the last owner decided that %$#^&%& zincs were too expensive to replace...ever and the drives became the zincs...in boston habor...for the four years he owned it. So for all I know, there IS no bearing in there. When I took the drives off, I noticed tranny fluid in the bellows...no real rot or rust and no water, but since I'm doing a COMPLETE restore of this boat and its completely empty, I'm gonna do it anyway. Sorry you had to go through that, but because of that, alot of new guys like me won't have to.
Thanks to your advise, I'm firmly decided to replace all that @#*$ in the transom assemblies because I have TWO to cause me the kind of grief that you went through, and with this boat and its ever deepening mysterious past, the last owner decided that %$#^&%& zincs were too expensive to replace...ever and the drives became the zincs...in boston habor...for the four years he owned it. So for all I know, there IS no bearing in there. When I took the drives off, I noticed tranny fluid in the bellows...no real rot or rust and no water, but since I'm doing a COMPLETE restore of this boat and its completely empty, I'm gonna do it anyway. Sorry you had to go through that, but because of that, alot of new guys like me won't have to.
#8
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Hey Chart
Thanks to your advise, I'm firmly decided to replace all that @#*$ in the transom assemblies because I have TWO to cause me the kind of grief that you went through, and with this boat and its ever deepening mysterious past, the last owner decided that %$#^&%& zincs were too expensive to replace...ever and the drives became the zincs...in boston habor...for the four years he owned it. So for all I know, there IS no bearing in there. When I took the drives off, I noticed tranny fluid in the bellows...no real rot or rust and no water, but since I'm doing a COMPLETE restore of this boat and its completely empty, I'm gonna do it anyway. Sorry you had to go through that, but because of that, alot of new guys like me won't have to.
Thanks to your advise, I'm firmly decided to replace all that @#*$ in the transom assemblies because I have TWO to cause me the kind of grief that you went through, and with this boat and its ever deepening mysterious past, the last owner decided that %$#^&%& zincs were too expensive to replace...ever and the drives became the zincs...in boston habor...for the four years he owned it. So for all I know, there IS no bearing in there. When I took the drives off, I noticed tranny fluid in the bellows...no real rot or rust and no water, but since I'm doing a COMPLETE restore of this boat and its completely empty, I'm gonna do it anyway. Sorry you had to go through that, but because of that, alot of new guys like me won't have to.
#9
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Location: ST. Louis, MO, USA
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Sorry to hear your minor project became major, but that seems to be the rule on boats. I've gotten to the point where if I take anything out, with the exception of engine or drive, I just rebuild it. I'm hoping you remembered to check the condition of your gimbal, ie upper swivel pin seal/bearings, etc.
Gary
Gary
#10
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Dark Horse, that is exactly why I posted this. Like you, I've learned from many others' bad experiences. It was just my turn again.
Gary, Gimbal bearings, huh?
Gary, Gimbal bearings, huh?