Motor never warms up. Advice wanted
#11
Does your crossover have a bypass from the inlet to the t-stat housing?
I just put my engine in with a crossover w/bypass.
It has a thermostat (140*) with three 3/16"holes drilled in it.
I've only ran it for initial break-in. 20 minutes @ 2000rpm on the hose.
Water temp came up to 130*. The oil temp wasn't hooked up yet but the filter was pretty warm to the touch. But not real hot.
I'm using a 6"long 2 1/8" oil cooler.I'll let you know what the oil temp is next time I run it.
Your oil cooler is much bigger, I think you should use a oil t-stat also.
Summit sells the "PERMA-COOL" for about $30.
I just put my engine in with a crossover w/bypass.
It has a thermostat (140*) with three 3/16"holes drilled in it.
I've only ran it for initial break-in. 20 minutes @ 2000rpm on the hose.
Water temp came up to 130*. The oil temp wasn't hooked up yet but the filter was pretty warm to the touch. But not real hot.
I'm using a 6"long 2 1/8" oil cooler.I'll let you know what the oil temp is next time I run it.
Your oil cooler is much bigger, I think you should use a oil t-stat also.
Summit sells the "PERMA-COOL" for about $30.
#12
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15 psi of water pressure in the block is safe (the motor is designed for a 12psi radiator cap in automotive applications).
Above 25psi in the block, you're asking for trouble.
Above 25psi in the block, you're asking for trouble.
#13
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Ok, what makes the water pressure get high in the first place? I still have the standard water pick up coming in the sides of the lower unit. My X dimension is not high so I have not modified the lower unit for low water pick up. My speed is about 80 now. Speedo says more but haven't GPS'd yet. Is the extra speed what gives the extra pressure? I am having trouble visualizing why water pressure would rise to dangerous levels as a result of using a cross over. I am sure I am missing something here, so help me out. My Cross over does not have a bypass. it has a 1/2 in. pipe thread fitting in the crossover that I assume is where you would install a sensor for water pressure. There is a smaller pipe thread fitting in the top of the thermostat housing. I could probably plumb a bypass using those, but then would loose the place for a water pressure guage. There is another plug in the top of the manifold oposite the one used for the water temp sensor. Would a water pressure guage be appropriate there? Thanks for the help guys.
#15
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You probably DONT have water pressure troubles right now. You will, though, if you add a Tstat.
Stockers don't have pressure problems cause the water neck has spring loaded popoffs that send water to the risers to dump pressure instead of force feeding it into the block like a crossover does. If you run a crossover and a TStat then you need to run blowoffs to the riser fittings.
Stockers don't have pressure problems cause the water neck has spring loaded popoffs that send water to the risers to dump pressure instead of force feeding it into the block like a crossover does. If you run a crossover and a TStat then you need to run blowoffs to the riser fittings.
#16
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Ray, One neat little tool that you can use to check the accuracy of your temp gauges is one of those little heat sensing guns with the red laser pointer-----just point and shoot. It takes ALL the guess work out of finding out what kind of temps you are running. Last year I thought one of my engines was running too warm and I had just installed a BRAND NEW Gaffrig water temp gauge! It showed that I was running about 200*, but when I put that heat sensing pointer on the thermostat and water lines, it showed that I was running about 155* and I am running 160* thermostats. It will tell the temperature of just about ANYTHING! We took readings off my block in various spots, water thermostat and water lines, oil thermostat and oil lines, oil cooler and the lines going in and out of the cooler. I have tubular headers and we even shot each individual tube to get a reading of each one. It is about the best thing since they invented the areosol can!!! Just point and shoot and instantly you get a digital reading. Takes out all the guess work! I did this with my engine hatch off and ran the boat under normal load conditions out on the lake. I drove and watched the gauges on the dash while my cousin sat in the back and took readings! It's a GREAT little tool!
Last edited by KAAMA; 06-11-2003 at 07:04 AM.
#17
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cont'd from post #16....
...I am running 160* thermostats. We also took readings off various spots on the blocks, oil thermostat, oil cooler and oil lines. I also run tubular headers and we took readings off of each individual cylinder. We took readings of the discharge water, electrical wires, fuel lines----EVERYTHING! We did this last year by removing the hatch off my boat and running it under normal operating load conditions---like we normally run the boat. I drove my boat and watched the gauges on the dash while my cousin sat in the back and took the readings from the engine. Just point and shoot whatever you want a temp reading from and you will instantly get a readout on the digital display. It's the greatest thing since the areosol can!!! It quickly and easily takes all the guess work out of temperature readings. They're about $100 or so.
...I am running 160* thermostats. We also took readings off various spots on the blocks, oil thermostat, oil cooler and oil lines. I also run tubular headers and we took readings off of each individual cylinder. We took readings of the discharge water, electrical wires, fuel lines----EVERYTHING! We did this last year by removing the hatch off my boat and running it under normal operating load conditions---like we normally run the boat. I drove my boat and watched the gauges on the dash while my cousin sat in the back and took the readings from the engine. Just point and shoot whatever you want a temp reading from and you will instantly get a readout on the digital display. It's the greatest thing since the areosol can!!! It quickly and easily takes all the guess work out of temperature readings. They're about $100 or so.