454 Problem - Advise?
09-30-2003 | 01:04 PM
#21
Were doomed!
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,099
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From: Chicago, IL
you can also try and use a 12pt socket in either metric or standard that sever so slightly smaller then the bolt head and pound it on with a hammer.......thats one of the ways we used to take off the wheel lock nuts that customers forgot to leave us keys for! 
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-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
09-30-2003 | 02:07 PM
#22
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From: Lombard, Il
Originally posted by Airpacker
There are special duty sockets availabe on the market which are designed to cut into the head and grab harder the more you pull. They come in various sizes for wheel nuts etc. They work on dam near anything as long as you buy the "good" ones which are real hard and have very sharp flutes forged into them.
There are special duty sockets availabe on the market which are designed to cut into the head and grab harder the more you pull. They come in various sizes for wheel nuts etc. They work on dam near anything as long as you buy the "good" ones which are real hard and have very sharp flutes forged into them.
09-30-2003 | 02:44 PM
#23
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Re: 454 Problem - Update
[QUOTE]Originally posted by ljsmith1
[B]Well, it's bad enough that the head gasket let go and the inside of my engine looks like cream cheese. It's even worse when all you have is one more headbolt to loosen and the head is so rusted that not one socket, metric or otherwise, will grab onto it.
Does anyone have a suggestion as to how I am to get this bolt out? It is recessed a bit so it is impossible to grab with any vise grip. I thought about welding a grade 8 bolt to it with my MIG welder, but the weld is unlikely to be very strong.
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You will probably have better luck if weld another nut on top. You can weld it through the top and get better penetration than trying to weld a bolt on. Just another method that has worked for me in the past. Good luck.
[B]Well, it's bad enough that the head gasket let go and the inside of my engine looks like cream cheese. It's even worse when all you have is one more headbolt to loosen and the head is so rusted that not one socket, metric or otherwise, will grab onto it.
Does anyone have a suggestion as to how I am to get this bolt out? It is recessed a bit so it is impossible to grab with any vise grip. I thought about welding a grade 8 bolt to it with my MIG welder, but the weld is unlikely to be very strong.
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You will probably have better luck if weld another nut on top. You can weld it through the top and get better penetration than trying to weld a bolt on. Just another method that has worked for me in the past. Good luck.
09-30-2003 | 03:43 PM
#24
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From: Kentucky - where the women are so fast we have to put a governor on 'em!!
If you decide to weld, make sure that the gas line is plugged and there is no gas in the bilge!! 
Having a fire extinguisher on hand would be a good idea, too. Remember, the fuel vapors will settle in the bilge, and one spark from the welder landing down there could mean "boom". I've seen it happen before.
Nice looking cappucino machine there.
Been there - good luck with it!
Having a fire extinguisher on hand would be a good idea, too. Remember, the fuel vapors will settle in the bilge, and one spark from the welder landing down there could mean "boom". I've seen it happen before.Nice looking cappucino machine there.
Been there - good luck with it!
09-30-2003 | 09:06 PM
#25
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
Had the same bolt problem with an old 454 I had. I spent half a day with a hammer and cold chisel and got the bolt head down to clean (non rusted) metal. Then I grabed my metric and standard impact sockets and found one that almost fit. I then beat the socket onto the bolt and it came right out.
Ron
Ron
10-01-2003 | 12:22 AM
#26
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From: Abita Springs, La.
I have used the trick of welding a nut onto broken studs/bolts. Just get a good grade 8 nut, not a cheapie. I think the welding heat expands the part and helps loosen things up.
I have also hammered 6 point metric impact sockets onto rounded fasteners. Harbor freight carries impact sockets with fluted corners, that grab the bolt away from the corner and work well on rounded bolt heads. The Craftsman Bolt-off sounds like a goody I need to check out, too.
Good Luck!
Bulldog
I have also hammered 6 point metric impact sockets onto rounded fasteners. Harbor freight carries impact sockets with fluted corners, that grab the bolt away from the corner and work well on rounded bolt heads. The Craftsman Bolt-off sounds like a goody I need to check out, too.
Good Luck!
Bulldog
10-01-2003 | 11:17 AM
#27
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From: Stamford, CT
454 Head Bolt - Update
Well...I took the suggestion of the Craftsman Bolt-Out sockets, and I went out and purchased the impact set for $49.99. Following the set's instructions, I placed the smallest socket that would fit over the rusted head. I then applied the impact wrench to it with about 600 lb-ft of reverse force...and...zzzzziiiiipp...the Bolt-out socket flutes stripped away, and the head bolt remained firmly in place (albeit a little more chewed up). Another socket that was a little bigger - same thing.
I then tried the hammer-on standard socket approach. All I got was two split sockets and a sliced knuckle. I tried the propane torch, hammer & chisel...still stubbornly the bolt remained. Hmm...maybe the head bolt is hardened - duhhh...
It was starting more and more to look like I was going to have to drag out the Oxy-Acetylene torch and risk blowing myself up...until I got a brainstorm...D-R-E-M-E-L. Could it work? Would it have the balls to beat this thing? Would I need MORE POWER!?
Well, I started with the reinforced 1" diameter cutting wheels and I proceeded to delicately dice the top of the bolt head-just like on TV. Pie piece after pie piece, sparks and more sparks. Then, I took the cold chisel and baby sledge and proceeded to bust up the head into little itty bits. Wouldn't you know it? In about 1/2 hr and very little sweat, I was finally able to remove the bolt. And I didn't even blow myself up!
And presto! the cylinder head is now separated off the engine. Sure enough, the head gasket shows the tale of a nearby water passage seal letting go and right into cylinder #5.
What a great forum this is to get ideas! I appreciate the help that everyone gave me.
Regards,
-Larry
Hmmm...cappuchino? My wife might like this flavor.....
PS- I will post a picture of the bastard bolt as soon as I get a chance. I think I will frame it...
I then tried the hammer-on standard socket approach. All I got was two split sockets and a sliced knuckle. I tried the propane torch, hammer & chisel...still stubbornly the bolt remained. Hmm...maybe the head bolt is hardened - duhhh...
It was starting more and more to look like I was going to have to drag out the Oxy-Acetylene torch and risk blowing myself up...until I got a brainstorm...D-R-E-M-E-L. Could it work? Would it have the balls to beat this thing? Would I need MORE POWER!?
Well, I started with the reinforced 1" diameter cutting wheels and I proceeded to delicately dice the top of the bolt head-just like on TV. Pie piece after pie piece, sparks and more sparks. Then, I took the cold chisel and baby sledge and proceeded to bust up the head into little itty bits. Wouldn't you know it? In about 1/2 hr and very little sweat, I was finally able to remove the bolt. And I didn't even blow myself up!
And presto! the cylinder head is now separated off the engine. Sure enough, the head gasket shows the tale of a nearby water passage seal letting go and right into cylinder #5.
What a great forum this is to get ideas! I appreciate the help that everyone gave me.
Regards,
-Larry
Hmmm...cappuchino? My wife might like this flavor.....
PS- I will post a picture of the bastard bolt as soon as I get a chance. I think I will frame it...
