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Question. Why change oil again in the spring time?
Awesome list. I will be doing it for the first time and was wondering if someone had put a list together. Thanks:eureka: |
Love Machine...good question! And to be 100% honest i dont know if you realy absolutly have to or not. I have always gone by the 3months/3000mile rule reguardless of use on my trucks. True the boat will be out of service for 5 months or so depending on where you live but i guess to answer you r question i think it would be because the oil is acting as a protectant. Its there to keep moisture from penitrating to the metal and rusting. Also has to catch dust and any other contaminants etc. "But the boat doesnt run at all the whole time" you say.....true but there is still dust in the air which will settle in the oil...probably not enough to make any impact on anything but why risk a $3000+ rebuild on a $20 oil change? :) I'm sure someone with a better oil experience background can better answer that question.
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I had always heard that you change it again because of the condensation collecting in the oil, but that should all boil off the first time you run it, assuming that your oil temps are getting to a decent temperature. Personally, I think it would be fine to change it once with before the layup, and then just run it next spring until your next oil change interval. I couldn't see that much dust getting inside the engine while it is just sitting there, especially if it is under cover. I would recommend changing it along with the winterization, and also before you start it up to fog it, so that the acids that build up in the old oil don't have all winter to do nasty things to your bearing surfaces. JMO...
Of course, if you have $20K wrapped up in your engine, peace of mind is probably worth more than the $20 bucks or so that it takes to change it again. |
Thanks Wally. Great list!
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One question. How much oil do I add to each seperator? 2oz?, 4oz?, 6oz?,or?
Thanks BTW when I mix my antifreeze with water I use HOT water. So as not to shock the thermostats into closing. I do this because by the time I get around to winterizing it's usually colder than the shady side of an iceburg. This year I may remove them. |
OK....did two outboards this weekend and spotted some other missing itmes that have been added :D
added to the parts list: -2 stroke oil -holding tank deodorizer (head) Bowl and seal cleaner (head) Erie Desire, i usually just pour about half of the gass out of the fuel/water seepperator and fill it with the teh 2 cycle...works fine :) |
Oxidation starts affecting oil and it's lubricity properties the minute it is exposed to the atmoshere.
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Another addition to the list....
- Add zincs where needed This could be a whole topic in itself. Where are they located? When to change? Etc... I'll be replacing the zincs behind my props (bravo 1) this fall. |
Zinks have been added to #18 and to the parts section! :D
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GET ALL BEAR AND SODA OFF THE BOAT!!!!!! I have seen it explode in peoples boats and man does it make a mess.
Jon |
Be careful leaving batteries on trickle chargers all winter. You can dry them out and fry them. I have done it and I know others that have as well. I have been using float chargers for the past couple years and they work much better. As soon as they sense a voltage drop they kick in an bring it back up then shut off, unlike a true trickle charger that will send a constant 2 amps to the batteries.
Todd |
PB
I will be relieving all valve spring tension this year at layup. I have a fairly aggressive cam profile and replaced all valve springs and lifters this past spring. I believe I may get some additional life from the valve train by doing this. I have never done it before, but after the expense of two top end overhauls ( twin motors @ 250 hrs ) it seems more reasonable than before. There have been a few articles in Powerboat and a few other rags that recommend this procedure for some cam/lifter applications. If my motors were bone stock, I don't think I would do it. This will be a part of my layup procedure from now on. |
Low water pickup
God tread!
Any special procedures for low water pick-ups on Bravo one? How can I feed the drive with antifreeze? Does standart ear set works on low W-pick-up? Thanks |
Slush
Great list Wally One more thing I do after I'v run the antifreeze thru, and shut off the engine, I take a sample from the block drains, in a small cup, and use my antifreeze tester on it, or put it in the freezer overnight to see if I get any slush.
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I always take some steel wool and plug any opening a rodent could enter. Exhaust, bilge hoses, etc.
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Karls waiting on some backordered fuel/water filters and we will be posting pics soon.
I have also made a cool air powered outdrive oil filler that we will show you guys here shortly as well! :D Stay tuned! |
OK Port side engine is doen and i have a few pics but we ran into a snag with a fried water impellor!!! next task on Monday before moving onto that motor is to change the impellor! :mad: I will post all the pics when we are done with the whole project so you all can see it step by step.
We still need to winterise the A/C system as well :) stay tuned :cool: |
check list
This is a great thread for winterizing your boat.
but item #19 should read remove props and send to Houston Prop for CLEANUP,:D Darin:D |
Re: WINTERIZING - the full way!
This was a very helpful thread last year so
I thought I would bring it back to the top for this year. Does anyone have any more suggestions? How about closed cooling winterizing tips? |
Re: check list
[QUOTE=HOUSTONPROP]This is a great thread for winterizing your boat.
but item #19 should read remove props and send to Houston Prop for CLEANUP,:D winterization Specials going on NOW! |
Re: WINTERIZING - the full way!
What type of oil would you recommend for a hp500 carb.
the flame arrester says SAE 40 But the book says 20/50. who carries this oil filter: WIX 51794 CAN'T FIND ANYWHERE. WHEN USING A BUCKET AND EAR MUFFS FOR ANTIFREEZE, WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT DRAINING THE BLOCK, MANIFOLDS ECT FIRST THAN RUNNING THE ANTI FREEZE THROUGH? I THINK THATS HOW I DID IT LAST YEAR AND BURN'T UP A IMPELLER. |
Re: WINTERIZING - the full way!
What Oil Filter Do You Recommand ? The Wix 51794 Is A Tall Filter. The Fram Hp4 Is Much Smaller.
Thanks Joe |
Re: WINTERIZING - the full way!
As far as changing the oil again in the spring.......
A few months back Poker Runs America told a story about a guy whose carb float stuck over the winter, the gas drained down ,contaminated all the oil with gas and he wasted the engine within two hours in the spring.......doug :( |
Re: WINTERIZING - the full way!
As far as oil filters go......this is a list for the BBC's. I'm sure there are a few sizes that are missing but these should all work:
Oil Filter FYI:The thread type on the filter is 13/16-16. Fram:PH5,PH13, HP4, DG5 Pureolator: L34631 Purolator Pure One: PL34631 (prefered) AC: PF1218 AC Delco pf35, pf1218 Motorcraft: FL-12A NAPA: 1060 Wix: 51060, 51061 K&N: HP3002 (prefered) Amsoil: SDF-24 Hastings: LF279 Fleetguard: LF3653, LF3679 Mobil 1: M1-302 (prefered) Baldwin: B1428 (top rated) Mercruiser: 35-802885Q Kendall: K31 Penzoil: PZ45 Quaker State: QS5 Shell: S63, SH38 Texaco: T38, T38B Warner: PH1218 STP: S01218 Valvoline: V056 |
Re: WINTERIZING - the full way!
what about the water pressure lines & speedo hoses, Gauges? is this self draining?
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Re: WINTERIZING - the full way!
I drained the blocks of my 500's but cannot start the boat and run it up to temp., no fresh water accessable. How do i get the antifreeze through the entire system without getting motor up to operating temp?
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Re: WINTERIZING - the full way!
I like to drain the motors, then fill thru the t-stat housing. Also fill up the hoses. May take longer, but at least it is fool proof.
This yr for the 1st time, I decided to try the bucket and muffs method. So, with a bucket full sitting on the swim platform, started motors and waited for the 'word' that it is coming out the exhaust. Never heard the 'word', so shut motor down to investigate. Apparently the level in the bucket never dropped. Not sure why not, but guess the pump couldn't get a suction going. using 3/4 clear hose. Too small?? So, I'm guessing with the smell of burnt rubber that followed the shutting off of the motor, I probably should replace the S/W pump this spring. :evilb: |
Re: WINTERIZING - the full way!
You probably had a weak SW pump. You need to prime the hose before starting. I actually use a small bildge pump with a 3/4" hose to assure I have positive pressure.
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Re: WINTERIZING - the full way!
Holy crap .. yall do that every year ????
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Re: WINTERIZING - the full way!
Is the reason nobody just leaves the block DRY is the fear that they may have missed some water drainage?
I was told years ago by a Merc mechanic that draining the block/fittings without adding antifreeze is just fine. If you are careful and accurate in what you are draining, you will be able to get all of the damaging water out without having to add antifreeze. Just wondering |
Re: WINTERIZING - the full way!
An empty block invites rust, so I've been told. I prefer the green stuff for the rust inhibitors. Just got drain it before the 1st time to the lake.
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Re: WINTERIZING - the full way!
Originally Posted by offthefront
Holy crap .. yall do that every year ????
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Re: WINTERIZING - the full way!
Dry blocking is a bit of a PITA. Drain the block, oil coolers, exh manifolds, exh risers. Each hole needs to be rammed with a screwdriver to assure no obstructions.
I like to drain the block then run just a little antifreeze to protect the coolers and exhaust system. I remember my fater always dry blocking all the boats when he worked at a marina. |
Re: WINTERIZING - the full way!
Originally Posted by offthefront
Holy crap .. yall do that every year ????
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Re: WINTERIZING - the full way!
Get the anti-freeze ready.....either premix the green automotive stuff of have the pink ready to go.
Please don't. |
Re: WINTERIZING - the full way!
It's that time of year again and Wally put together a great list. So I thought I'd bring this to the top. Can we make this a sticky for the next couple of months?
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Re: WINTERIZING - the full way!
Originally Posted by Wally
OK, i had a list of step by step things to do on winterizing a boat.....it got ruined when i spilled something on it and so i had to redo it best i could from memory.....This should be printed out for those wishing to do-it-your self. enjoy and please add comments if i have missed anything so we can all have a complete list. Granted some of these can be in different orders but this is how i do it most times and works great for me.
Winterizing Boat: 1. Add fuel stabilizer to recommended amounts for your size of tank. Top off tanks full to prevent condensation. 2. Lube all grease fittings ie. Tilt/Trim, steering, control cables, drive coupling, etc... 3. Clean and degrease engine and bilge area. (reason i do this now is that you can see if you have any leaks on a clean engine and the engine dries its self off when you run it later) 4. Inspect wiring, hoses, belts etc....for softening/cracking/bulging etc...and replace or repair as necessary to be ready for next season. Better to do this now then try and remember to do it in the spring when the fever hits! 5. Get the anti-freeze ready.....either premix the green automotive stuff of have the pink ready to go. 6. Run engine up to operating temps, and let it run for a little while longer to be sure to get the mixed sta-bil gas though the system. 7. Shut engine down and hook up the anti-freeze mixture. The quicker you do this step the less likely the engine will cool enough for the thermostat to close. **NOTE** to be 100% safe you can also at this point drain the block and any other onboard options that are cooled by "lake water" ie. risers, power steering cooler, oil cooler etc to make sure that the anti-freeeze will get to all parts of the engine for complete coverage. But it does not have to be done if you feel the cooling system of the engine is working properly*** 8. Start engine and switch over onto the anti-freeze mix...run till you have the anti-freeze mix coming out of exhaust thus knowing its has gone thorough the entire system. 9. At this point you can go one of two ways: 9a. You can spray the fogging spray down the throat of the engine while under idle till she chokes 9b. You can take the fuel/water filter off....drain about 1/2 out and fill it with 2cycle oil and put it back on...and run it till its smoking good. 10. Once engine stops or is smoking good shut it down and proceed to change oil. Here i just change oil and leave the oil filter on the engine (i figure since you will be changing oil again in the spring there's no need to waste a good oil filter) Have the new oil filter on hand and leave it in the boat with the new oil so you don't worry about that come spring time. 11. Changing the fuel filter/water separator now is also a good thing. **OPTIONAL** Remove spark plugs and inspect. Spray some fogging oil into cylinders and turn engine over once with kill switches removed to coat cylinders. Again have new plugs onboard ready for spring time startup. 12. By now the engine compartment should be mostly dry from running the engine and is a good time for any touchup paint work that may be needed on engine or in bilge. 13. Spray a corrosion inhibitor on engine. (T-9 is a good one) 14. Drain any onboard tanks like fresh water, waste tank, shower etc and add the biodegradable anti-freeze. (DO NOT USE THE GREEN AUTOMOTIVE STUFF!!!) 15. also make sure to protect the AC system. Either blow out the water in the lines with compressed air or disconnect the line and run anti-freeze though it while the AC is turned on. 16. Move drive to the down position so not to stress the bellows boot or the shift cable boot. 17. Remove batteries and store in a cool dry place. Check water levels if not a sealed type battery and add if required. Clean and grease all battery connections to prevent corrosion. Cable ties can be used to group cables together to ensure proper hookup in the spring. Make sure all switches are off. Place batteries on a maintenance trickle charger. 18. Now is also a great time to change drive oil. Doing it now not only save you the time in the spring but the main purpose is to get any moisture out before it has a chance to start rusting the bearings in the outdrive. This time also gives you a chance to fix any problems you find over winter so you are not faced with a big expensive surprise come spring!!! Check all zinks mounted on either the drive or Gimbal housing and on Trim tabs. 19. Remove props, cover opening of drive with a garbage bag to keep rodents out. 20. If you have a fridge onboard, clean it out, disinfect, and prop door open for air circulation 21. Clean the interior of the boat and put a moisture absorbing or mildew fighting container/device. Bounce dryer sheets spread around the cockpit/cabin and possibly some rat/mouse poision in the cockpit of the boat to help ward off any unwanted guest's and have the boat smelling fresh. 22. Check all built in coolers, storage compartments, anchor lockers etc for any standing water that may freeze and remove. 23. Remove any electronics that are not permanently installed and store in a warm dry place. 24. Wash and wax boat. helps repel dust and dirt during storage and its nice to come back to a clean boat in the spring! 25. Now is also a good time for trailer maintenence. Inspect the trailer coupler and latch assembly. Inspect the saftey chains and fasteners. Check condition of trailer wiring, lights and bulbs. R&R winch strap/cable. Inspect rollers/bunks, nuts, bolts and hardware. tighten or replace as necessary. 26. If trailer is equiped with brakes check fluid level and top off. Good time to check pads and rotors/disks. 27. If you can....block the trailer and remove wheels and store on theirs sides to avoid flat spots. If not removing tires, fill to recomended air psi. (check the sidewall of tire for recomendations) Good idea to place some sort of cover on tires to help avoid UV damage from the suns rays. 28. Loosen the tie-down straps to reduce stress on hull 29. Leave the drain plug out and tilt boat up for any water that may collect to drain out. You can put the drain plug in a clear sandwhich bag and tie it to the steering wheel so not to loose it. 30. Check license plates for up to date registration and renew if needed. 31. Put cover on boat and make sure if you are in the snow belt that the cover can support any snow that may accumulate on it without ripping! Better yet place another plastic tarp over your boat cover.....this will keep stains from birds and leaves off the cover and will let you remove any snow buildup if outside more easily. **NOTE** during winterization is also a good time to change the sea water pump impellor for good measure. This one $20 item can save you thousands in repairs from overheating if changed seasonally. **Parts List*** -Fuel sta-bil enough for your size tank -Heat or any fuel moisture absorber -engine anti-freeze -biodegradable anti-freeze for fresh water tanks -grease gun with marine grease -new oil enough for two oil changes and 1 fresh oil filter per engine -New fuel/water filter per engine -new sparkplugs per engine -touchup paint -T-9 or equivalent corrosion inhibitor spray -mildew fighter and/or moisture absorber for interior of boat -Bags to cover drives -Any cleaning supplies for interior and or fridge etc... -Bounce dryer sheets -Rat/mouse poision -Sea water pump impeller -tire covers -Tarp the size of boat -Brake fluid for trailer (if so equiped) -Misc electrical supplies for repairs -2 stroke oil -Holding tank deodorizer (head) -Bowl and seal cleaner (head) -Zinks if need replacement If i forgot anything please post it here and i will add it to the list! :D Then winter goes..spring comes back again and at least one or two things don't work now that worked 5 months ago...I know the drill all too well. Move South young man! |
Re: WINTERIZING - the full way!
impeller, wait till spring so that it wont take a (set) or form
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Re: WINTERIZING - the full way!
Originally Posted by Troutly
NOPER! :eek: I have the 500 EFI's so I just fill it through the brass t-fitting in front of the t-stat housing like Merc recommends. MUCH easier :)
Do you remove the T fitting or just pour right through it? believe it has a ball and spring on either end so what do yo do - just push the ball to one side and pour through there? |
Re: WINTERIZING - the full way!
Originally Posted by splashandburn
Do you remove the T fitting or just pour right through it? believe it has a ball and spring on either end so what do yo do - just push the ball to one side and pour through there?
Anyone?? |
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