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-   -   WINTERIZING - the full way! (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q/60302-winterizing-full-way.html)

BigDaddy96 11-04-2005 01:00 AM

Re: WINTERIZING - the full way!
 
Merc manual says to remove the t fitting. However you can take the ball and spring apart to remove and use duct tape to tape up one side of the t fitting and use a funnel to pour a/f down the other side. Then when full, just put the ball and spring back together.

Budman 11-04-2005 07:51 AM

Re: WINTERIZING - the full way!
 
Cityscope?

Looks like someone is trying to get their website to have a better page ranking on Google... :rolleyes:

US1 Fountain 11-04-2005 05:45 PM

Re: WINTERIZING - the full way!
 
I still don't understand how Cityscope did his winterizing. :drink:

Wally 10-12-2006 03:56 PM

Re: WINTERIZING - the full way!
 
its that time of the year again.....so ttt!!! :D

BY U BOY 10-12-2006 05:05 PM

Re: WINTERIZING - the full way!
 
IF I MAY ADD ONE MORE THING THAT I HAVE DONE. I TOOK TWO PIECES OF FOAM AND CUT THEM SO THE FIT IN TO THE EXHAUST PIPES THEN DRILLED A HOLE IN BOTH SO I CAN PUT A ROPE THROUGH THE MIDDLE(MAKES IT EASIER TO GET THEM OUT) THEN STUFF THEM IN THE PIPES TO KEEP MUD DIVERS OUT OF THE ENGINE. REMEMBER TO REMOVE. :drink:

BajaBuddy 10-14-2006 08:15 AM

Re: WINTERIZING - the full way!
 
One thing that I have found really useful to do is to put a big flat sheet of styrofoam over my enging cover and under the cover - this keeps the engine cover from getting mildew all over it. Also, if you do suck water/antifreeze mixture through your engine it seems like it would be a good idea to just remove your thermostat before starting your boat so you can be sure that it is open - it only costs you a new thermostat gasket, then put it back when finished witerizing. How much antifreeze/water do you think you need to fill a BBC? I have been sucking through about 10 gallons and wonder if I am just wasting a lot of antifeeze.

Boomer 880 09-15-2007 12:28 PM

ttt

2Slow4me 10-01-2007 11:09 AM

Great post ?? about the fuel/water filter??
 
11. Changing the fuel filter/water separator now is also a good thing.

??

Wouldn't that be better the change in the spring after running the first tank through?

ohmthis 10-02-2007 02:41 AM

What would you recommend for the e10? This is a thought that I have had here lately. I'm going to fill it up and add a good dose of stabil to it. i'll change the filter next year after the first tank to see if there is anything in it.

ohmthis 10-03-2007 03:19 AM

I understand what happens with it, my question is how do we try and keep that from happening? Is the same old thinking of filling it all the way up to try and curb the moisture still hold true? Anthony

WildThing 10-28-2007 09:32 AM

Good stuff!
Thanks

Reckless32 10-29-2007 02:28 PM

I read several conflicting philosophies (articles) in various publications over the past year regarding winter storage of fuel tanks containing E-10 fuel. Go practically empty to reduce the amount of fuel to be contaminated due to condensation on fuel cell walls, and phase separation (ethanol octane separating from the fuel itself due to aging after 30 days) then fill up as mentioned above...........OR follow the full tank philosphy minimizing condensation, and pickle the fuel with Stabilizer and Startron to reduce phase seperation. Then add Pri-G fuel rejuvenator in the spring.

Personally I'm taking the practically empty approach with pickled fuel, then fill up with fresh gas in the spring changing separators frequently at the start until I see nice clean fuel poured from the separator into a glass container and allowed to set for a few minutes.

Regardless of which approach you take, I suggest next spring you change the fuel separators during the first 2-4 weekends of use to be sure.

WildThing 10-31-2007 11:18 AM

Might also add to the a list some cross
refrenced fuel filters for the 496HO

Applicable fuel filters
Wix 33226 Short filter
Wix 33225 Long filter

Rage 11-01-2007 11:32 AM

Yamaha water seperating fuel filter "MAR-FUELFIL-TR":
10 micron
90 GPH
50hrs/6mos

Better filtration and twice the water capacity of the stock Merc unit. It is also twice the length.

Clay Washington 11-07-2007 09:27 PM

ttt

Gizmo 11-11-2007 10:37 PM

I just winterized this weekend and I have taken the near empty approach. I added Sta-bil to keep the remaining gas as fresh as possible. I was fortunate enough to have able to get ethanol free gas all summer. The station that I was filling up at, has just changed over to E10. :mad:

boatnt 09-25-2009 04:54 PM

ttt

stormbauer 09-25-2009 05:19 PM

In order to need the fogging how long would the boat need to sit without running?

Irishtornado 09-30-2009 02:48 AM


Originally Posted by Reckless32 (Post 2321099)
I read several conflicting philosophies (articles) in various publications over the past year regarding winter storage of fuel tanks containing E-10 fuel. Go practically empty to reduce the amount of fuel to be contaminated due to condensation on fuel cell walls, and phase separation (ethanol octane separating from the fuel itself due to aging after 30 days) then fill up as mentioned above...........OR follow the full tank philosphy minimizing condensation, and pickle the fuel with Stabilizer and Startron to reduce phase seperation. Then add Pri-G fuel rejuvenator in the spring.

Personally I'm taking the practically empty approach with pickled fuel, then fill up with fresh gas in the spring changing separators frequently at the start until I see nice clean fuel poured from the separator into a glass container and allowed to set for a few minutes.

Regardless of which approach you take, I suggest next spring you change the fuel separators during the first 2-4 weekends of use to be sure.

Ditto on this statement with the ethenol in the fuel today I would want it as empty as I could get it to avoid moisture condensating in the tank as well as the octane dropping for those of us that have the boat sit almost 6 months the octane level drops substantially even using Stabil. The rest of it is pretty thorough though although changing the oil twice once in fall and once in spring again seems pretty wasteful due to the fact it's fresh oil.

Irishtornado 09-30-2009 02:50 AM


Originally Posted by stormbauer (Post 2960644)
In order to need the fogging how long would the boat need to sit without running?

Being your in Buffalo I'm guessing your winter is as long as mine so your looking at a minimum of 5 months I would fog it just to avoid condensation on the valvetrain as well as cylinder walls...For 2 minutes of spinning off the filter and pouring a little 2 cycle in it when you are doing your final shutdown it's piece of mind..

racinfever 09-30-2009 11:55 AM

The full way , or the fools way ? use this thread for examples of what not to do. :lolhit::lolhit:

Pismo10 09-30-2009 07:01 PM

Playing with faces..:coolcowboy::party-smiley-004::kiss::bigbird::hitit::eek::drink::evilb::angr y-smiley-038::bsflag::lolhit::evilb:

FuelinAround 10-20-2009 03:22 PM

great thread. One new step to me. I usually run engine, drain block, run antifreeze then fog and done. You are saying that now it is a good idea to run engine, drain block, run antifreeze, fog, then drain manifolds again

2Slow4me 09-29-2011 09:14 PM

What about the brake rotors?? (to stop the rust)

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...ml#post3516259


P.S. Thanks for a great list, very handy!

Darreldanger 10-03-2011 01:18 PM


Originally Posted by pb (Post 696266)
Great thread Wally!

Does anybody go so far as to back off the rocker arms to release spring pressure for the dreaded winter lay-up.

Paul

The hydraulic lifters should bleed down thus relieving the valve springs...Correct???

puzzleboy 10-03-2011 10:10 PM

454 Mag MPI - is it ok to do the fogging oil (2 stroke oil I guess) in the fuel filter method? No problems with injectors, etc?

Thanks.

Biggus 10-04-2011 04:51 AM

Ttt

Airpacker 10-04-2011 07:18 AM

Thought I would add this little bit of info. Use a shop vac to suck any water out of your inter cooler system. Stick the hose end right on the dump fitting and let her suck until dry.

longtravel 10-04-2011 07:28 PM

In the serloc manual i have for my 496 mag HO it says to close fuel supply , disconnect fuel pump and boost pump, add 2oz of 2 cycle oil to fuel filter and run till fuel runs out. Im confused becasuse ive read in this thread to shut motor off when i start to see smoke. So does anyone know the proper way? My problem is that i want to run anti-freeze mix thru the muffs out of a 5 gallon jug, so how can i time it to where it either starts to smoke or runs out of fuel before i use up the antifreeze in the jug. im stressing over this and i refuse to bring it somewhere to have it done because i dont like people wrenching on my stuff. Is there a way to fill the raw water side with anti-freeze mix without running it thru the muffs?

killfast1 12-14-2011 09:53 PM

Back in Kentucky my dad put a fitting in one of the water lines. Then used a bilge pump dropped in a bucket of antifreeze to fill the block. You can see it run out the exhaust.

tcelano 12-14-2011 11:38 PM


Originally Posted by Darreldanger (Post 3518598)
The hydraulic lifters should bleed down thus relieving the valve springs...Correct???

I don't think the lifters bleed down far enough to completely reseat the valve. I thought the hydraulic piston just takes up the last 0.05 or 0.1??? Someone will correct me if this isn't right.

Also, the valve springs are under a fair amount of compression even when the valve is seated.

I think the best you can do is bar the engine over a half turn or so every month. Let's see, four months of winter = two complete revolutions or one full valve cycle...

Hank36 01-02-2012 08:21 AM

Empty Fuel Tank
 

Originally Posted by Irishtornado (Post 2963353)
Ditto on this statement with the ethenol in the fuel today I would want it as empty as I could get it to avoid moisture condensating in the tank as well as the octane dropping for those of us that have the boat sit almost 6 months the octane level drops substantially even using Stabil. The rest of it is pretty thorough though although changing the oil twice once in fall and once in spring again seems pretty wasteful due to the fact it's fresh oil.

I talked with Bob Teague about the fuel level issue and He stated that it's better to have your tank or tanks as low as possible and add stabalizer do to the quality of the gasoline that we have Today.I change my impellers in the spring so there not sitting all winter with the rubber vanes bent up in the pump housing.I also turn over my engines by hand about once a month to distribute the valve spring pressures.I put a moisture absorber in my engine compartment.I spray my shift boots,Exhaust bellows with rubber conditioner and then put the drives in the down position. have 500 efi's with 318 hours and have no issues as of yet.Can't wait till Summer..Having my ride custom painted by Mitcher T in Feb

drpete3 09-20-2012 12:15 PM

Hate to say this guys but its this time of year again for us northerners to start thinking about this. ttt

Pismo10 09-20-2012 12:22 PM


Originally Posted by drpete3 (Post 3780756)
Hate to say this guys but its this time of year again for us northerners to start thinking about this. ttt

Put one away already. Sad.

BlueOval 09-20-2012 12:32 PM


Originally Posted by drpete3 (Post 3780756)
Hate to say this guys but its this time of year again for us northerners to start thinking about this. ttt

Thinking, but not doing!!!YET!

2Slow4me 09-20-2012 11:13 PM


Originally Posted by drpete3 (Post 3780756)
Hate to say this guys but its this time of year again for us northerners to start thinking about this. ttt

It's a sad time of year :(

the deep 09-20-2012 11:55 PM

:traurig001::bsflag::traurig001:

Jolley 09-21-2012 06:26 AM

Still holding off....... A few more weeks..... It is getting colder here at night. We had a really great summer here in Michigan though .............

:sport009:

CBlakeNS 10-01-2013 11:09 PM

Great write up. Very complete.

CATF800 10-18-2013 08:11 AM

is there a refined/up-dated list with all of the additions/corrections?


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