Merc manual says to remove the t fitting. However you can take the ball and spring apart to remove and use duct tape to tape up one side of the t fitting and use a funnel to pour a/f down the other side. Then when full, just put the ball and spring back together.

Cityscope?

Looks like someone is trying to get their website to have a better page ranking on Google...

I still don't understand how Cityscope did his winterizing.

its that time of the year again.....so ttt!!!

IF I MAY ADD ONE MORE THING THAT I HAVE DONE. I TOOK TWO PIECES OF FOAM AND CUT THEM SO THE FIT IN TO THE EXHAUST PIPES THEN DRILLED A HOLE IN BOTH SO I CAN PUT A ROPE THROUGH THE MIDDLE(MAKES IT EASIER TO GET THEM OUT) THEN STUFF THEM IN THE PIPES TO KEEP MUD DIVERS OUT OF THE ENGINE. REMEMBER TO REMOVE.

One thing that I have found really useful to do is to put a big flat sheet of styrofoam over my enging cover and under the cover - this keeps the engine cover from getting mildew all over it. Also, if you do suck water/antifreeze mixture through your engine it seems like it would be a good idea to just remove your thermostat before starting your boat so you can be sure that it is open - it only costs you a new thermostat gasket, then put it back when finished witerizing. How much antifreeze/water do you think you need to fill a BBC? I have been sucking through about 10 gallons and wonder if I am just wasting a lot of antifeeze.

ttt

11. Changing the fuel filter/water separator now is also a good thing.

??

Wouldn't that be better the change in the spring after running the first tank through?

What would you recommend for the e10? This is a thought that I have had here lately. I'm going to fill it up and add a good dose of stabil to it. i'll change the filter next year after the first tank to see if there is anything in it.

I understand what happens with it, my question is how do we try and keep that from happening? Is the same old thinking of filling it all the way up to try and curb the moisture still hold true? Anthony