hey jay- I read in an old post where you stated that your t/a is all stock except for that cam and runs high 11's all day long on a 90 deg day, is that in the 1/8 mile or 1/4 mile?

ME? My car is not all stock
not even close
Yes ill run high 11's or low 12's all day in 90 degrees but NOT stock
Headers, Borla, High flow cats, Hypertech programmer, GM Hotcam, Nitto drag radials, BMR trailing arms, BMR drive shaft loop, MTI clear intake lid, ported MAF sensor, K&N filter, Yank Superthruster 3700 stall torque converter, WS6 Trans Am
Car out of the box off the show room floor with the crappy 2.73 gears did 13.7's all day consistant
the converter took me to 12.6's
Drag radials got me .1
intake, K&n and ported MAF sensor knocked off another .1
Programming got me .2
colder weather gets me up to .3 (cold early first run in morning)
Then I decided to lighten up the car some when I go to the track so I yank out seats, seat belts from rear, some odd plastic panels ect
empty out glove boxes and basically empty it out
best run has been 11.79 @ 113
this is all done WITHOUT nitrous, and the GM 10 bolt stock 2.73 gears in
I have a set of 3.42's but if you ever know anyhthing about GM rears, you know your best bet is to either toss it and get a 12 bolt OR get someone that does it for a living to set it up and shim it out with new gears and a new carrier
Car used to be a daily driver but since the drag radials are sort of gettin thin, I drive my F350 daily now and she gets to sit in the garage for the winter
I will start driving her again in spring on almost a daily basis she is legal and is tough to beat on the street
hey what can I say, I built an animal and tearing open a LS1 engine was a pure pleasure trip, GM has come very far wiht their engines -- this LS1 i wish I could drop 2 of them in the baja, now THAT would be amazing!!!
block and heads weigh in at 600 lbs
Intake is plastic (the WHOLE INTAKE MANIFOLD)
and makes some incredible power
last dyno prior to cam install was 374
cam plus head work probably end up in the 410-420 ish range comfortably,
Block is a 6 bolt main all aluminum
and it freakin screams!!!!
Jay
PS like I said not close to stock but she can run her ass off !!!

Jay, duration and LSA are much more critical in a marine environment. There is a reason most of the marine cams are ground with higher LSA and less duration. You don't want all that water that's exiting through your pipes to be pulled back into your motor. Reversion will kill a marine engine and low LSA figures and high durations contribute to it greatly. Be careful what you experiment with. Kinda like doing your own open heart surgery. It's your heart! As a previous poster said, get with a reputable cam manufacturer. They will have grinds for marine engines and will know what you need given your present combination. Remember, there are no converters on boats to help with bottom end. Install the wrong cam and kill the bottom end torque and there is no way to recover it. Also, your valve springs won't handle the lift on the cam you listed. Even the 454 mag rectangle port heads, with stock springs, are only good for a little over .500 if you want it to remain reliable. Be careful and good luck.

[ 01-24-2002: Message edited by: Croozin2 ]

[ 01-24-2002: Message edited by: Croozin2 ]

does anyone have a wav file of an aggressive cam in their boat?
preferably with No Headers (stocker manifolds and risers)
For the few that know the situation, I may have trashed the cam in the starboard engine or I have broken a valve spring or bent a valve, not sure until it gets warmer outside and I can take that top half off and see wtf happened
Im just trying to be prepared so I know what to order and from where if needbe.
If I dont need a cam then this all goes away, but if I am going to do a cam, im going bigger
what cams did the 420's have in them?
Biggus, should I just get the 365 mag cams if I need em?
Thanks
Jason

Jay- well that makes sense now, i may have misunderstood your old post, i had a ls1 t/a that was modified by lingenfelter and also had a 150hp shot of nos, w/3.90 gears and it would run 11.40's thru the exhaust and on street radials.

as far as the cams in your 330hp's in my opinion it would be best to just fix it and enjoy the boat, shopping for a cam by the way it sounds will more than likely slow your boat down, besides you wont be able to back up that big cam sound with in those 330's

Im not really worried about backing up anything, if I do cams it is because one is lunched and I have to and while you have it apart, might as well put a bigger one in there ya know
There is going to be tons of boats faster than me -- if I was worried about that aspect of it, I would have bought a cheap house and bought a skater with twin 1100's and #6's
cant afford headers (6 grand is nuts)
but want this louder and punchier
i fixed and redid the silent choice (yeah like that will ever be closed off LOL)
way I look at it, If you dont like the noise of the exhaust, get an rv and cruise out to bumble hell no where and relax
LOL
Jason

Jayl13-- cam specs can be deceiving. Mine is advertised as 270, but that is at .006" lift. That is not an effective lift. You won't move much air. I am running a Comp Cams XM 270H-12 270° advertised, but 226/236 @ .050" lift. 112 LSA. This gives it a decent idle, along the lines of what you want, gives decent power with EMI exhaust, and is damn close specs to Crane Cams #134241
Oh yeah- I will try to pull a wav file off of some video I have of mine.

[ 01-24-2002: Message edited by: David ]

Merc 420 cam is a
Crane 132561. It is listed on their web sight.

David,
Got the video,
your cam sounds perfect
can you send me exact specs?
great video and nice ride
Looks like a baja from the back but then
I see the windshield and it is not.
What boat is that?
Thanks, much appreciated ,
That is exactly what im looking for
perfect
not too crazy and idles okay, but choppy nonetheless
Great -- thanks soooo much
Jason

I RAN A HYD ROLLER WITH 236 AT .050 AND 547 LIFT WITH 2.250 AND 1.940 VALVES HAD NO CLEARANCE PROBWITH TRW FLAT TOP PISTONS