I used the rope in the cylinder method to do my small block chevy. It takes about 8-10 feet of the 5/16" clothes line to fill up the cylinder if you happen to start at the bottom and then I rocked the car make sure it was filled.

It worked perfectly BUT I am definitely going to use the air method on the '02 500 EFI next spring. I have 275 hours on them and they haven't broke yet. My buddy messed up both his carb HP500's with only 100 hours on them.

Good luck!

The rope method works great, and you can do it with considerably less rope if you feed the rope into the cylinder with the piston approaching TDC and then continue gently turning over the motor (by hand) until it won't turn.
The piston and rope are now holding the valves closed!

Cigarette 30
Not easy, but worth it. Valve springs are a “read” component, similar to a spark plug, in that they contain a great deal of information relating to the operating condition of your engine. Not only are they responsible for returning the valves to their seats, they need to keep them there; a difficult task compounded by aggressive ramping and (in some cases) forced induction. In the process they are required to dampen and stabilize the harmonics created by the valve train and dissipate the resulting thermal buildup. Many engine failures have been blamed on soft cam cores or defective rollers, when the problem has been valve train instability due to improper spring rates. Monitoring your springs for degradation is cheap insurance against “the big one”.
Bob

Once you've made the changeout on springs do you have to do this every 200 hours or do the aftermarket spring hold up better for more hours??

RM Builder,

Could you recommend a shop (in the Maryland area)that would be half as knowledgeable as you appear. (no I am not being sarcastic) I currently have 160 hours, do it now or at 200? I would be happy to pay travel expenses to have the work done here, and the perk of an extra couple of days for relaxation. Also, hate to be greedy, could you please check the current tread regarding the vapor lock kit with any recommendations.

Thanks

JDNCA1, what are Cometic head gaskets, never heard of them.

Ron,
Cometic gaskets were recommended by Dean Nickerson and several other knowledgeable builders in this area,
http://www.spottsperformance.com/com...head%20gaskets

see www.cometic.com

Only way to go on a blower motor or if you want extra assurance.

When we have to change valve springs while the heads are still on the motor, either in a car or boat. We made a fitting with spark plug thread and a air hose fitting, Thread it in then plug your air hose in it, for us that puts 200+ psi into the cylinder, the psi holds the valve up for you, then you can change the springs and whatever else you need done

Traviss, US 1 Fountain,

You can get the fitting at any auto parts place that sells special automotive tools. The same company that made the spring compressor also makes the spark plug air fitting. I was using around around 125# pressure, and it would hold the valve shut regardless of where the piston was. Since you have to set the lash after you change springs anyway, I wasn't too concerned about being exactly at TDC...just wanted both valves shut.

Cig 30,

I met with the Mercury Rep when he was at my local Mercury parts shop. He said if I had been airing the boat out while wide open, then I should change them out at 200 Hrs. Since I pretty well baby mine, I changed them at the end of the season at 270 hrs. No springs were broken, showed signs of corrosion or other wise. Rather than test the old springs, I opted to change them out and replace the locks. That should cover the springs until the engines need to be overhauled.

Bill

Any opinions on doing the lifters as well while doing the springs? Have heard it is a must and also that just springs is more than adequate? not trying to start a debate just needing info since I need to do this in the spring.