klaw

I removerd the cockpit floor from the Cig to fix a stripped bolster bolt and when I turned it over the fiber glass mat was tacky to touch. This boat is a 1989 it is almost like ther was not enough hardner in it. The gelcoat side of it is in very nice shape. And there was a slight delamination in one corner I need to fix
can I just put another coat of fiber glass mat with the proper mix over this as a fix?

Reed Jensen

My understanding about polyester resin is that there are two types. Bonding resin which goes between the laminations while the boat is being built and then there is finish resin which is the final coat. The bonding resin remains tacky while the finish resin achieves a hard finish on the surface. I'd like to think that what you were touching was bonding resin and that is why it is tacky..... but after 15 years you've got to wonder. I experienced the same thing on a Fountain and repaired it with West system epoxy and had good results. Good luck.

wallynt

Klaw.

Like Reed says, there are two types of resin. The laminating resin is the same as the finish resin but they add "air dry" to the resin before the finish coat. Air dry is a liquid wax that floats to the surface and seals off the air to allow for a tack free finish.

When you say that the mat was tacky, do you mean that your finger kinda sticks to it or can you move the fibers around?

When considering any repair to fiberglass, whether you are going to use Epxoy or any other resin, it is very important to make sure you properly prep the area. If a finish resin has been used, IE. Air Dry, you must remove all the wax from the surface or your new repair will have lousy secondary bonding.

In the case of a delam you need to remove all the delammed layers and replace them with new material.

I always grind the surface with a 5" grinder and use a 24 grit disc. Grind away the surface layer of resin and mat till smooth and then wipe clean with acetone. Always grind a few inches past where you are going to glass, that way the edges of the repair won't peel. Another trick is to tear the mat by hand instead of cutting with scissors. The torn edges of the mat will feather out and be almost unseen as opposed to the cut edge which will leave a ridge.

If you really want to do a good job, invest in an air roller. This is what the pros use to remove all the air bubbles from the laminate. No air = stronger laminate. they are only $10 or so and can make the job alot easier.

Good luck and if you have any other questions, feel free to ask or call me toll free @ 1-888-310-0222.

Fiberglass boat repair is what I do for a living.

Paul.

Reed Jensen

Wallynt, Thanks for giving him the info of the prep..... I just assumed he would know all that stuff, but it's good to see it in print. Good luck guys. P.s. Wally , have you ever placed a vacuum on the resin to remove the bubbles? Just curious. I've done that with potting resins before and it makes the stuff almost crystal clear.

wallynt

Reed.

We build some products using vacuum bagging but in most cases with a general repair it usually take too long to set up the whole process and therefore it's not cost effective. For most things the air rollers are faster and do a good job.

Reed Jensen

I have to ask.... what are 'air rollers'? are they solid rubber rollers to roll out bubbles? I've never heard them described that way. Or are they special rollers to spread resin... Thanks for your reply.

wallynt

An air roller is a metal or hard plastic roller with vertical grooves in it. They come in a variety or sizes and shapes depending on the contour you are glassing. We generaly use a detail roller for small repairs. Its 3" long and has a diameter of .5".

You roll them back and forth over the wetted out laminate and they force the air bubbles out and flood the resin throughout.

I'l try to post a few pics as they are a little hard to desribe. I have also heard them called "bubble busters".

Thanks for the interest Reed.

Wally.

wallynt

Air rollers or bubble rollers

wallynt

another

wallynt

another