Norty,

My folks have a cruiser that stays in the water in San Diego.. It has closed cooling and they didn't flush the motors at first... After about 2 years they had to replace the exhaust manifolds because they had corroded so bad. Now they flush the motors everytime. Also, keep an eye on your drives..My folks had coral start to grow on theirs because they didn't get painted and it was a ***** to get them cleaned out..

The worst part of leaving it in the water all time is the corrosion on the outdrives and parts..... my boat was in the salt water all it's life.... and it was flushed and washed down every time it was put on the trailer at the end of the day.... and I still had electrolysis under the drive trim indicators and anywhere stainless was touching aluminum... I still say....if you don't want to tow it.... get a hydro hoist... where are you planning on mooring your boat? Ventura? MDR? Newport? If your boat is under 40' you can have it put on a "rack" at Lido boat yard in Newport..... let them drop it in the water for you.... and then take it out when you are through boating. Just a suggestion.....

If it has notbeen said already DO NOT add closed cooling to a motor that has not had it since new.

Jon

What is your theory on "not adding closed cooling to a motor that has not had it since new"?

The problem is that the motor is already scalled up. So the rust breaks free and clogs up the exchangers. You also need to make sure you use different pullies or the oil will not cool properly as the flow drops off through the oil coolers and makes them less efficient. The only way to do it is to break them down and have the blocks dipped to remove the rust IMO.

Jon

I would definatly get closed cooling on them however. Unless of course you want them to corrode and then get some motors out of RWD and really make that thing screw

Go to MST Guardian Web site and look at the BP HP System. A quick, no engine running flush system that can cycle through each engine, genset, ac etc.

There is a transom mount and will power flush the engine and exhaust components. They have a scale remover that you use after installing the system that removes rust scale accumulation and cleans the engine/exhaust .... after that... simple flushing.

I use the system and love it.

We may be setting up as a dealer due to the fact the system works so well in value for the dollar. It was an easy install.

http://www.mstguardian.com/prod01.htm

I installed the Guardian system on the 502 in my last boat. I am not a motor head in any way, but had no problem doing the install. And it made flushing so easy. Just plug in the hose, turn the water on and listen to it do its thing. The real advantage for me was being able to flush the motor with the boat still in the water. That way I did not have to always wait for a wash rack.

Sounds like just what you need Nort.

Agree Macklin, that is the best part, no need to run engine, wake neighbors, in water flushing, etc.

I use the 'Salt Shaker' which has a timer and cycles through each engine with one transom connection.
Trailer is set up with onboard water for flushing using the aux power on the 7 pin connector, a pump timer & a recoil hose to attach to the transom. This allows flushing immediately after pulling boat out and washing salt water from boat/trailer.