View Poll Results: What are the FACTS?
No flushing is really needed.
0
0%
Flushing or closed cooling is needed.
51
100.00%
Voters: 51. You may not vote on this poll
Flushing motors, or closed cooling, or neither?
#1
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Flushing motors, or closed cooling, or neither?
With 502MAGs and the boat staying in salt water 24/7 (never hauled out or lifted), is it necessary to install motor flush kits (or install closed cooling kits)? I'm confused now.....I'm hearing both.
I've heard from more than one place that if the boat is never out of the water that running sea water through the motors will not cause long term damage and that the what causes the corrosion to start is when air is inserted into the equation.
I've heard from more than one place that if the boat is never out of the water that running sea water through the motors will not cause long term damage and that the what causes the corrosion to start is when air is inserted into the equation.
Last edited by PhantomChaos; 01-13-2004 at 12:28 PM.
#2
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About 15 years ago, I had a Sutphen that I kept in a high and dry and never flushed it After 3 or 4 seasons, the engine locked up one day and the oil was chocolate milk. Although it's a PITA ya gotta do it (flushing that is!)
#4
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I'm sorry, I misread your post I would think that those people who have said that you don't need to flush have closed cooling, but flushing will extend the life of the components that would still be exposed to the saltwater (mainly the exhaust manifolds/risers).
I'm sure that someone more knowledgable will chime in here, but I'll postwhore until then!
I'm sure that someone more knowledgable will chime in here, but I'll postwhore until then!
#9
Nort, i'm sure someone will know first hand what the correct answer is but heres my take on this. The cooling systems in our boats are not 100% sealed. Meaning that water will eventually leak down and settle at either the lowest point where it cant leak anymore or it will be even with the water line of the boat. that being said i would imagine that air is still introduced to the cooling part of the closed system and thus you have the possibilty for corrosion. my biggest concern would be the upper risers and maybe a part of the heat exchanger depending on how the water is getting out of the system and how things are mounted on the boat/engine. I would play it on the safe side and flush it. Whats the worse that can happen? you spend a little more time on the boat and prolong the life of the parts?
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Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
#10
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Even if you put a fresh water kit in, I would still flush the salt water side if you can. If you're using raw water cooling (Like I am), I flush it when ever I can. I'm on a mooring so It's a little harder. I rigged something up so I can bring a 5 gallon container on the boat with fresh water, and hook it up to my water intake. I also use Salt Away in that water, and when I flush it by hose. I only do that 5 gallon setup when I know I won't be using the boat for a few days. I also try to put the boat on the trailer a couple of times throughout the season to give it a good flush and a cleaning. I check all the running gear as well. I've heard that salt water theory too. Who knows if it's true. I have friends who keep their boats in all season, only flushing in the fall, and they seem to be getting up to 5 years with no real problems. Luck? Check out the Salt Away website. They have more on flushing.