Bottom Paint??
#1
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Bottom Paint??
I know evryone here is against bottom paint but my boat already had it when I purchased it a few years ago...what I would like to know is it ok to try a different color paint (lighter color) over the brown that is there already? Will the dark bleed through right away?
#2
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If you are using an abative paint, then it functions by "wearing away". It is also pretty easy to scrub it on off with a scotchbrite pad on a DA sander and lots of water. You should be able to get back to hull color in under an hour (if it is ablative paint).
If it's a HARD paint, then be warned that it is not designed to be trailered. It loses its chemical activity if it dries out.
Soft paints, though, aren't designed for FAST boats. Going fast wears them away inordinately quick.
Are we talking about a 60mph boat, 80mph boat, or 100mph boat? Does it stay in the water or is it trailered? What is the hull color? What color paint is on it now?
All these "matter".
There are only a couple of paints out there designed for fast hulls AND trailering. And they are not available in all that many light colors. These facts will drive the train.
(but there are a lot more colors than just brown, ugh..)
If it's a HARD paint, then be warned that it is not designed to be trailered. It loses its chemical activity if it dries out.
Soft paints, though, aren't designed for FAST boats. Going fast wears them away inordinately quick.
Are we talking about a 60mph boat, 80mph boat, or 100mph boat? Does it stay in the water or is it trailered? What is the hull color? What color paint is on it now?
All these "matter".
There are only a couple of paints out there designed for fast hulls AND trailering. And they are not available in all that many light colors. These facts will drive the train.
(but there are a lot more colors than just brown, ugh..)
#4
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Re: Bottom Paint for performance
Originally posted by DansFever
If you are forced to use some sort of anti-fouling agent for a performance boat, what is the best product to use?
If you are forced to use some sort of anti-fouling agent for a performance boat, what is the best product to use?
They are............................................... ...
Trailers and boatlifts
#5
For a performance boat I would recommend VC17M (Extra) or VC Offshore from Interlux. I have used VC17M for many years and it keeps the bottom clean, and performance is good compared to an unpainted hull. Can also be trailered. But is not available in light colors.
#6
I have Superspeed SP52 on my boat for the same reason. I tryed everything to get it off and HEAVY grit paper on a big sander / polisher was the only thing that dented it and was real hard on the gell. The say it is ok to dry out (trailer) and does not kill the speed. They also claim US Customs uses it. But Broken white (color) in my case looks kinda blue/gray.
Rag's
Still on the fence
Rag's
Still on the fence
Last edited by ragtop409; 03-03-2004 at 09:25 PM.
#8
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Depends.
What is the length/beam/displacement (weight) of the boat? What is its power? What speed do you see after a fresh bottom job? Are they burnishing it after application? What is the fouling classification of the water you run in (heavy,moderate, light)?
On a 20,000 pound 40mph cruiser, I figure ablative copolymer paint costs you 2 mph over a clean hull. Two months of fouling, however, in warm water will cost you 4 mph. It's a trade off.
What is the length/beam/displacement (weight) of the boat? What is its power? What speed do you see after a fresh bottom job? Are they burnishing it after application? What is the fouling classification of the water you run in (heavy,moderate, light)?
On a 20,000 pound 40mph cruiser, I figure ablative copolymer paint costs you 2 mph over a clean hull. Two months of fouling, however, in warm water will cost you 4 mph. It's a trade off.