WELL IM TO HEAR IM DOING SOMETHING THAT WORKS, AND SAVES MONEY. THE ONLY REASON WE REWORKED A RETURNED RING IS THAT THE FINISH CUT WAS DONE WITH THE RUFFING TOOL BY MISTAKE AND DIDN'T LOOK GOOD. THE RING WAS TO SIZE AND WOULD HAVE WORKED FINE.( IT WAS JUST A LITTLE RUFF FINISH ON ONE FLAT) I AM THE OWNER OF JR MARINE AND [B]WILL NOT HAVE A DISAPPOINTED CUSTOMER!! THAT'S WHY WE REWORKED HIS RING WITH NO PROBLEMS. A GIMBEL RING REWORKED WILL LAST JUST AS LONG AS A NEW ONE!! HEAVY BOATS WILL STRETCH THE U BOLT AND IF YOU DON'T KEEP THEM AT A 53 LB TORQUE IT WILL SLOP OUT QUICK. OUR STAINLESS SWIVEL SHAFTS ARE THE CATS ASS COMPARED TO OEM. AND SWIVEL SHAFT COVER PLATS WORK VERY WELL. CALL ME AT 216-390-1330 ANY TIME AND I CAN HELP YOU MAKE YOUR GIMBEL HOUSINGS LIVE LONGER WITH TRICKS I HAVE DONE AND THEY WORK. OR CHECK OUT MY WEB SITE AT WWW.JRMARINE.COM
RON BENDER

I'm still trying to figure out this repair.
Either way the first thing you need to do is pull the drive and either drill two 1-1/8" holes into the gimbal housing or cut a rather large hole in the back of it?!?

I understand Ron's plate is in a thinner area so it should be stronger, but which way is easier to work wrenches through?
Do I understand Ron is willing to lend some specifically bend/ground wrenches to make the job easier?
Do you advise replacing the now stretched u-bolt that tightens around the swivel shaft?

These guys are in Shelby Township, Michigan and do the same thing. MERCSTUFF


They claim: On a brand new MerCruiser gimbal ring they put a very large hole thru the top of the new ring so they don't have to remove as much material when they push their square broach thru the hole.
After welding, we machine the 4 flats in the top and counter bore the underside to perfectly fit the rebuilt swivel shaft which was also welded up and machined.
Notice your now clamping on the entire surface and not just the 4 corners.

I wonder about the falts shown here vs. the stock merc bore:

STOCK



REDONE MERCSTUFF

I don't mean to jump in on your thread, but I have a question on the same subject. I have the engine out right now. Would it be just as easy to remove the entire assembly instead of drilling holes?

Do it Ron's way............

Or the "Frankenstien" Way!!!

You make the choice WWW.JRMARINE.COM

IT'S MUCH EASIER MY WAY VS. THE SIDE HOLES. PROB. ABOUT 5 HRS QUICKER AND LESS SCREAMING & SWEARING. YOU WILL BE WORKING THRU 2 1 INCH SIDE HOLES WITH A HAMMER & A PUNCH THE OEM WAY OR WITH A SET OF WRENCHES MY WAY. ONCE YOU DO ONE TIME AVERAGE FOR TO REMOVE RING & REPLACE IS LESS THAN 1 HOUR. THE FIRST ONE ALWAYS TAKES A LITTLE LONGER TILL YOU SEE WHATS GOING ON. MY WEB SITE SHOWS YOU PHOTOS AND EACH STEP IN ORDER HOW TO DO IT. WE ALSO CARRY ALL THE OTHER OEM PARTS YOU WILL NEED TO FINISH THE JOB.ALWAYS REPLACE THE U BOLT WITH A NEW ONE!! THEY STRETCH AND BECOME WEAK. NO MORE THAN 53 FT POUNDS OF TORQUE OR THEY WILL STRETCH!! WE HAVE TRIED MAKING U BOLTS FROM OTHER MATERIAL THAT WOULD BE STRONGER BUT HAVE HAD NO SUCCESS. EVERY ONE BROKE AFTER A SHORT TIME IN USE. IF IT WORKS ON MY BOAT FOR A YEAR IT WILL WORK ON ANYONES BOAT. MOST OF YOU KNOW HOW I RUN WILDTHING. THAT'S HOW WE TEST!!! THE WILDTHING TEST

If you have the engine out, I would suggest removing the gimbal housing. Just make sure you loosen the bell housing socket head bolts first. The lower swivel shaft is also easier while the housing is still on the boat. I have first hand experience doing the job on and off the boat.
FYI- Don't forget the up and down play on the gimbal ring is set with the top nut on the upper swivel shaft.

I'm pretty much sold on your plate, now what about your gimble repair.... Does your repair turn out like the OEM one or like the MERCSTUFF photo? Seems to me the more material the better.