I was considering adding A/C and shore power to my 33 Outlaw but was disappointed when I got the quote from my dealer on the cost. Has anyone had this done and if so could you PM me or post an approximte cost I could expect to pay?

Depends on what you want in terms of shorepower. Just an plugin for the AC unit or a full AC distribution panel.
AC units for a small cabin like that, around 5000 BTU w/reverse cycle, will be around $1300 with pump, thru hull, strainer, controls, ductwork, etc.
Gary

Is that labor and everything? My dealer is quoting me over $5000.00! They were quoting the AC distribution panel but that only added around $500.00. I think I need to give him a call.

That price is parts only. Check out the AC units on the following site for specs and prices:
http://www.mabru.net/

Check at Mermaid Marine Air, www.mmair.com or Arctic Marine Air. I've installed one of each and was more than satisfied with either company.

Labor?

Either do it yourself, or sit and hand tools to a friend who does it for you. This is your boat - take every chance you get to become more imtimate with it - it makes it easier to fix when something breaks later.

How difficult is installing air? I do most of my own work on all my toys but this one's just a bit more expensive than the others. Can someone give me a breif breakdown on what you have to do to install a/c assuming the shore power is there?

The electrical hookup is a standard 3 prong plug. If you can plug in a lamp, you can do this. The controls and water pump will have connectors ready to plug in too. The only traumatic part is drilling a hole in the bottom of your boat for a thru hull fitting.
Do a search in the tech section for hints on a good setup, then go ahead and order one.
Gary

Thru hull below waterline to pick up water. If you plan to use it at speed, you need to use a scoop style. If you only plan to use it at rest, then you can put it on the transom and avoid worrying about drag. If you use a bronze one, you gotta run a ground wire from the fitting to the engine ground or other boat ground to avoid corrosion.

Thru hull above waterline to discharge water. Must be at least 6" above the waterline. Higher is louder (the splashing sound).

A hose from the drain pan either into the bilge (where the pumps will take it out periodically), to a shower drain box (where the pump will take it out periodically), or to a suction fitting on the discharge line (be aware that this method will allow some additional condensate to stay in the drain pan after shutdown that may get splashed around when jumping waves.

Place to mount the pump (from the thru hull to the pump must be an even slope upwards fro the thruhull and the pump must be below water line cause they don't self prime).

Pump wire goes to AC control box
Thermostat wire goes from stat to AC control box

Power lead can be as simple as a long cord you pull out and plug into the dock, or you can install a 120v panel, connect the A/C to its own breaker, add a few 120v outlets in the cabin for tv, lamp, fan, curling iron, whatever, run a wire to a permanently mounted battery charger in the engine compartment, and put an outlet "close to" the engine compartment for trouble lamps, drills, etc (there aren't supposed to be any outlets IN the engine compartment unless they are all vapor proof and such - it's better to just put one "close").

For just another $100bucks or so, you can add reverse cycle heat to the unit for wintertime usage. Reverse cycle will only work if the water is above 40 degrees, though. If you plan to use heat with the water colder, or plan to expect the unit to keep the cabin from reaching freezing temps while unattended for whatever reason, then you'll need to get heat strips installed instead of reverse cycle. The reason is that strip heat doesn't care how cold the water is. Another reason is that if the water pickup gets clogged, strip heat still works. Strip heat will take 1500 watts while a 5000 btu unit on cool or reverse cycle heat only takes 800 watts.

www.mmair.com

has good tech info