Re: Jetting/tuning For Procharger setup
 

All this information is wonderful,my question is there an exhaust
temperature gauge in your boat.Most forged aluminum piston should
run below 1350 degrees.I have run blown carbs in boats for
over 20 years and burnt my fair share of pistons going above this
temperature.I have never run power valves with a blower because
of the lack of vacuum.Even at low rpm you are at about 0 PSIG.
The power valves are already open unless something new has
come along.I know pro chargers are somewhat different,but air
fuel ratio has to be as such to keep exhaust temperatures safe.

Re: Jetting/tuning For Procharger setup
 

hardcore my 750 based nickerson built pro charger carb came with 96s in the secondarys and no secondary pv.this is for a hp 500 though.i just put in 98s after doing a plug chop the insulators looked real white i havnt tried it yet with the 98s but after reading these posts im not so sure that its going to need the 98s but i would like to see at least a slight bit of tan on the insulator just to feel safe.if i were you id plug the back pv and try it with a 98s or 99s and go from there you might end up with 96s like tom cat said. less stuff to try and dial in without the second pv.and you will be real close right off without so much guessing.

Re: Jetting/tuning For Procharger setup
 

What can I say Tomcat - you're the man!

Do you think then that I should change to the 750 throttle body or 750 Demon carb?

BTW: What do you think about Annular Boosters for this? It seems no one ever uses them since they present a little bit of a restriction over the down leg design. They are much better at producing signal and at fuel atomization as well. I remember years ago running an 830 Annular on my brother's old 455 Pontiac and that carb was by far the best performing Holley I've ever seen. I've also run a 600 "4010" model Holley (they came with w/ Annular boosters) on a small block and that had incredible throttle response as well.

In fact, a 750 version of that carb (4010) would be a hell of a gem in my carb box setup since it didn't have floats bowls that pulled off the end of the carb but rather the top came off the carb to get at the jets. Also they came in polished aluminum. Too bad Holley discontinued them!

I would like to get rid of the choke horn on my 870 anyways since that sits just a couple of inches or so from the lid of the box and is probably wreaking all kind of havoc with airflow into the primaries at full boost.

I'm thinking of just buying a 750 Race Demon (Annular) or Mighty Demon and trying it out with the base line jetting based on your calculations.

I don't regret this experience though, it'll only make it sweeter when that sucker swings the needle up into the triple digits!

Re: Jetting/tuning For Procharger setup
 

Hardcore I think you are getting excellent direction with taking out the secondary P/V, I experienced the same situation when my procharger was too rich, it would lay down on WOT. I continued decreasing my jet size on the secondary with a P/V in the secondary until it started to pick up. Keep in mind, that mine so rich that it wouldn't run on the dyno, and we had run out of time to continue on the dyno so I put my motor in a jet boat and flogged it on the trailer. I was able to verify in this situation with dry exhaust that it actually blowing black smoke at WOT, so I knew that I was in need of decreasing the jets in the secondary. This is difficult to verify with the water mixing in your exhaust.
I have a Fast fuel injection ECM with a Holley fuel injection manifold, 95 lb injectiors, a Holley 95 mm TB into a Probe elbow. I custom built this from the parts I selected and am very satisfied with the system.

Re: Jetting/tuning For Procharger setup
 

[QUOTE=jspeeddemon]Hardcore I think you are getting excellent direction with taking out the secondary P/V, I experienced the same situation when my procharger was too rich, it would lay down on WOT. I continued decreasing my jet size on the secondary with a P/V in the secondary until it started to pick up. Keep in mind, that mine so rich that it wouldn't run on the dyno, and we had run out of time to continue on the dyno so I put my motor in a jet boat and flogged it on the trailer. I was able to verify in this situation with dry exhaust that it actually blowing black smoke at WOT, so I knew that I was in need of decreasing the jets in the secondary. This is difficult to verify with the water mixing in your exhaust.
I have a Fast fuel injection ECM with a Holley fuel injection manifold, 95 lb injectiors, a Holley 95 mm TB into a Probe elbow. I custom built this from the parts I selected and am very satisfied with the system. I have @$4000.00 in mine.

Re: Jetting/tuning For Procharger setup
 

Hey guys.
Based on Tomcat calculations, I decided to install #81 jets in the Primaries and #82s in the Secondaries. I couldn't locate a power vavle plug so I decided that was the only way to test the theory. I was only able to make one pass because the starter problem that I have been having turned out to be a loose batt. cable connection which caused the starter to not fully engage and the sucker tore up the ring gear and the starter gear. (I had to get a tow in because it wouldn't restart). (My bad luck has no end apparently!)
Anyways, I did a quick burst to about 5000 and cut the throttle & ignition off and guess what: the plugs still look a little on the rich side! The acceleration felt good too up till I shut it down. So, it seems I'm on the right track after all and the damn thing was way too rich all along.
Thanks again Tom - and everyone else - for taking the time to help me out here. I have to order a new ring gear or flywheel, so I think I'll go ahead and order a 750 carb and base the jetting slightly on the high side of the numbers you all have indicated and work down slowly from there. Will keep you posted.

Re: Jetting/tuning For Procharger setup
 

All this guessing and vague plug readings. Why not step up and buy a wide=band O2 sensor/readout display for $350 and know exactally where you are at!

Re: Jetting/tuning For Procharger setup
 

I would already have bought one if it didn't mean having to buy a new set of headers with an oxygen-sensor bung welded in. Unless, of course, you know where I can get a O2 sensor that works in a wet header collector!!:) I have Lightning headers and I can't see anywhere that I can weld a bung in without going through the water jacket.
Then there's the pyrometer issue. I have been considering having a plate machined to sandwich between the header and head so I can drill and tap for the Fluke fine wire pyrometers like I use to use on my Merc Drag. Motor. Only thing is, I would need to know what exhaust temps I'm supposed to be looking for.

Re: Jetting/tuning For Procharger setup
 

On your lightning headers you can drill thru both walls and make the outside a little bigger, dimple in the outside wall and then weld the two walls together and then weld on the O2 bung. Not that diffucult. You're right on the pyrometer problem.

Re: Jetting/tuning For Procharger setup
 

Here's the latest update guys. I pulled the motor out to change the ring gear, and installed a Hays lightweight billet aluminum flywheel (15lbs. vs. like 45lbs for the old Teague billet steel one) and I finally bit the bullet and bought an XR Upper which I then reinstalled my old lower unit on. This gives me a 1.50 gear as far as I can figure since the XR ratios are changed in the lower unit (unlike the old B-1, X & XZ).
I did in fact buy a new BG Mighty Demon 750 as well but I decided that I couldn't let that old Holley 870 lick me.
Sooo:
I went back in, plugged the rear P/V and followed Tomcat's recommendation on the jetting - I installed #87 jets in the primaries and #96s in the secondaries.
Threw the old boat in the water yesterday with my 34" labbed B-1 and guess what:
IT RUNS LIKE A SONOFA*****!!!! It accelerates so hard that I was even afraid to trim it up past neutral trim! Doesn't matter anyways - it'll hit the rev limiter no matter whether it's trimmed or not. Also, it'll easily get to max. speed in about a 1/2 - 3/4 mile with neutral trim. Even with three people in the boat it runs @ 104mph on the GPS. Into the wind or out don't matter either (used to be like 2-3 mph extra going into the wind) It's also still accelerating noticeably when it hits the limiter. The one time I did try to trim it (with three people/fools?) on board it hit the limiter so hard it almost threw us out!! I seriously think it'll do an honest 110 with more gear/prop and a shorter Imco Lower. I also intend to add a scoop for a cold air intake since the blower is pulling hot air off the header presently.
All I can say is: THANKS A MILLION TOMCAT and all of you who offered your advice and encouragement! Suffice it to say that I couldn't have done it without you all! This is, in my view, the reason this forum exists and it wouldn't be worth a damn without all of your active participation!
So, to recap, the carb combination for the Teague 509 setup is (currently):
#87 Prim. Jets; 0.080 " PVCRs - Primary; # 96 Sec. Jets, Secondary P/V plugged, Pink cams on accelerator pumps set at #2 position for both pumps, # 37 Squirter Prim; # 42 Squirter on Secondaries, Nitrophyl floats set at bottom of sight hole (Standard Holley setting) #.110 Viton inlets. I will keep you all posted as testing continues.
This is for 5lbs of boost with the M-3 blower - I have no idea what other setups may require but I would say that if you follow Tom's advice on calculating total jet area for the estimated air density increase, you should get comfortably in the ballpark.
BTW: my total advance timing is still @ 28 degrees BTDC.
Now just imagine - once I get it dialed and some more gearing - what this sucker would do with say, 8-10lbs of boost, some race gas and maybe an R-Tech Supercooler?;)
It's Alive, people, and the Islands are no longer safe!!!