A trick I learned from the guy that did my granite counter tops-
He cuts cheap Luan plywood into strips about 2 inches wide. These can be cut to length on site with scissors .
He places the strips along the perimeter and glues the strips together with a hot melt glue gun. This becomes a template, and results in a replacement piece that is exactly the size and shape it needs to be withoout any trial & error.

Epoxy does stick to polyester, polyester does not stick well to epoxy. There are vinylester primers made by duratech that take care of that problem.

Re: Rotted Transom
 

I have a little delamination on the transom of a buddies boat. An area about 1 square foot kinda oval between the trim tab and drive. He was washing it and I heard a slight hollow sound tapped around and narrowed it down to the above mentioned area. We drilled a hole thru the gel in to the transom and felt where the outer layer of plywood had delaminated. What I dont understand is that the wood is not soft and rotten feeling. When poked with an awl it was hard as hell... Is it possible it just didnt bond well and separated, and is not rotted. I was thinking of drilling a hole up top also and pumping some resin in the bottom till is comes out the top.
Any input. The boat is a 98 falcon never left in the water longer than a weekend or a weeks vacation

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Merkruzer yes you can do that. Just make sure it is solid. When you drill in you will know if the wood comes out wet. If you can find some way to clamp it so that you actually push the wood back together after you fill it up. This way you will add a minimum of resin and it will be stronger.

Jon

Re: Rotted Transom
 

Go to an auto parts store and buy a cheap grease gun and a couple of Zert fittings, screw the Zert fittings (use correct drill size and they will self tap) into the glass where you want to make the repair, fill the grease gun with resin and SLOWLY pump the resin in, Don't get carried away because you are basically applying hydraulic pressure between the glass and the core. Throw the grease gun away and remove the zert fittings after it has kicked, patch the small holes from the Zert fittings with some gel. Sounds a little far fetched but I have done this in the past and it worked like a champ.

Re: Rotted Transom
 

thanks Ill try that, like i said it seems very dry, ill drill a hole at the lower part of the hollow area and check to see if it is damp. is there a moisture meter for this?

Re: Rotted Transom
 

what is the best resin for this

Re: Rotted Transom
 

Merkruzer yes there is a moisture meter for this. However they are expensive so unless you know some one that has one you can barrow the drill tech is going to tell you what you want to know. You can drill a number of holes if you need to they are easy to fill/patch, and give you piece of mind. Polyester resin is fine for this job just make sure you mix it correctly so that it does not harden to fast on ya. As has been said with the greas gun, it does work VERY well but you do have to be carefull as you can easily blow the transom apart. Make sure you have a bleed off hole up high and in the same "chamber" that you are filling. Good luck

Jon

Re: Rotted Transom
 

just finished '82 scarab from inside i cut glass around perimeter leaving 2" LIP to reglass to. made a tool that helped 1" wood chisel removed end cap and inserted 10" lag screw.it helped me get to bottom of center hump and remove rotten debris.a lot of miy transom came out with a spoon lucky me. cut pattern off back of transom with cardboard allowed for inside recess and cut 3/4 plywood to fit 2 sheets had to cut each of those in half at different intervals to slip it behind the center hump and 5200 it to glass and reglassed i have pictures before and after but not on digital wife lets me play w/boat but nothing else nothing!! took 4 long days to get soggy crap out i don't envy what you are about to do would be happy to share any thing that might help remember above all else ther is no can't only won't

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I concur with formula 31 , I did my 302SR formula 3 years ago the same way very happy with the out come.

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I am mostly done with my project. Here is what I did...

I cut the inner glass at the hullsides and at the bottom of the hull bottom around the stringers. I then cut the stingers at a 45 degree angle ending at the transom. I cut the sringers for two reasons. One, I wanted to put the new plywood in as one piece. Second, I wanted to be sure that the wood in the stringers was not rotten.
Anyway, the old wood came out very easy. Most of it came out with my hands. The remainder I used a large wood chisel and cleaned the outer glass of all the old wood. I did the same thing with the inner glass, too.
When Fountain built the boat, they laid the hull up and installed the plywood as it was in the mold. After they pulled the mold, the deck was installed ie:shoebox. I decided to build my new transom higher, to tie into the deck. I did this because Fountain glasses the hull/deck joint all around the perimeter of the boat, but with the inner liner removed the joint was only rivited (not the most rigid).
I used cardboard from Charlotte Appliance (big fridge container) for my template. My new template would be about four inches higher than the original wood.
I was ready to cut my plywood.
I used marine grade plywood. I wasn't going to, but it is guaranteed to be "void free", plus the glue they use is much more durable.
I cut the new wood beveling the edges to fit the angle of the deck. I was going to laminate the two pieces of wood before putting it in the boat, in the end I installed it in stages.
I used West Systems epoxy for bonding. I found their product to very user friendly.
So, I used their epoxy and mixed per recommendations (get the pumps). After I wet the surfaces, I mixed a paste with their 404 powder glue. I put it on with a trowel, just like you were going to lay tile. I put the wood in place.
I made a clamping system using 2 by 4's and 2 by 6's. I cut 2 by 4's to fit inside of the boat that went to the hulsides ant the 2 by 6's extended beyond the hullsides. I through bolted the wood. I used three different clamping systems using the holes of the outdrives, exhaust, and k-planes. The bolt holes for the k-planes located the new wood.
I did this with each piece of wood and finally the inner glass. I used the thickened paste to fill voids and around edges (like mud for drywall).
I have to put glass mat around the edges for strength, to tie the new wood in. Then some finnish work and paint.
This is a job that anyone could do. It just takes some time. If anyone has questions please let me know. I have taken the last of the pics and I'll post 'em after the weekend.

Re: Rotted Transom
 

Where are the pictures?

Re: Rotted Transom
 

Hey I know this thread is a little old but I didn't want to start a new one since this one is already right on topic for my question.

I found you guys via google and maybe you can be my lifesavers. :)

So...I am a poor college student taking the summer off to relax and do something besides school.

I found this beautiful old four winns 17" walk through with a solid (but rusty) trailer.

The boat is SOLID except for the transom. Not rot...but wood separation.

The separation doesn't seem to go all the way to the hull (probably 6" margin all the way around).

The boat/trailer is basically free. No motor. It was setup for an IO which was removed, nothing left but a hole in the transom. I am not worried about the motor because I have sources. I may set it up for a outboard since I have to redo the transom anyway, but if I find a new IO i may just do that and see if it saves me work on the transom.

So I haven't taken the thing yet because if it turns into too much work the boat will just become a liability because I won't be able to finish it. I am resourceful but don't have tons of cash.

Anyway, a couple solutions I have been tossing around to deal with this (so my transom doesn't fall off and sink me)...

Sawzall the whole transom out. Buy marine plywood and glass it in setting it up either for another IO or an outboard. This is very labor intensive route and fairly expensive material costs.

Another option, I can go to the boeing surplus and pick up scrap aluminum 1/4" plates and cut them to size, put one on the inside and one on the outside and bolt them together. Ugly but functional. This route would probably lead me to just putting another IO in so i don't have to screw with modifying the shape of the transom.

Another option is making some large fancy outboard bracket that mounts to the floor and has bracings to the floor and hull and sticks out through the transom but puts no mechanical stress on the the transom. Then I just seal up the IO hole and go.

Another option is drilling a ton of holes in the transom and filling with fiberglass to try and seal up the separation throughout the wood.

Another option is just making a big fat ugly outboard bracket, bolting it on to the existing transom with a backplate and lots of bracings inside holding it together.

I am looking for other ideas and your opinions on these. I am trying to figure out by tomorrow or monday whether or not this is doable for me in under a month and for around $600 tops (just talking transom materials here).

It is such a pretty boat and the right price too...such a shame that the transom isn't solid. Just makes me sick which is why I really want this to work out.

Thanks!

Kind regards,

Matthew

Re: Rotted Transom
 

Here is the clamping system

Re: Rotted Transom
 

Construction is finnished. It came out better than I expected it to. I'm nearly done painting the engine bay and the transom exterior. I'll do pics after the Holiday...

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Bryan...

Looks like you have done a great job.
I hope your engines are coming along as well.

Steve

Re: Rotted Transom
 

Steve,

They are. I will drop them off at the dyno next week. Then install them and work out the bugs with the boat. Every step has taken longer than I anticipated. Doing it myself has saved a ton of money and I get a sense of satisfaction BUT, if I paid to have it done I'd be in the water. Oh well...

Re: Rotted Transom
 

Nice Job!

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How do I keep the saws all blade from wandering when I cut the new Key hole?

Re: Rotted Transom
 

Cut inside of your border then sand to the exact dimension or use a jigsaw which is more precise to cut with.

Bryan

Re: Rotted Transom
 

Whatever you do, take your time and do it right. Get as much of the rotted wet wood out as possible, and dry it out good.
Acetone works well to remove water because when it evaporates, it takes water with it. I did a job with a friend that ended up failing and now I have to bring the boat back from Nj, and rip the motor out and re- do the repair. I did a conversion from Omc to Merc. I used a friend's help who had 40 years experience doing fiberglass repairs in the boatyard. During the repair, I told him that I didn't think that there was enough of an overlap, tapering out the glasswork, and didn't feel that enough layers of mat were used. he told me it would be plenty strong. We dried out the transom with a reddy heater for about 2 days. Anyway the outer skin cracked and was noticed opon haulout. Pick as many brains as possible. If you feel that some part of the repair is inadequate, it may be and you would be better off over doing it than skimping or taking a shortcut. I recommend using stainless #10 1and1/4" screws, and screw plywood real good. Also mark out where keyhole will be and don't use many screws in that area. I recommend 1and1/2 ounce chopmat. Cabosil also , but it has no structural strength, good for filling and fairing. Make sure there are no voids, where cracks will develop.

I don't want to see anybody go through the heartache I'm still going through over this. The puzzle piece plug and repair was done right, but overall strength was limited because repair was not tied into the boat good enough.
I'm going to redo it, and go further into the transom, and grind the area out further, also wrapping the repair around the bottom of the boat. I've heard that Epoxy repairs stick well to polyester, and poly repairs to epoxy. You can bet I'm doing more homework on this so this never happens again. Maybe you can buy a whole transom for this, A local yard was able to get one from Grady White for a 1978 boat recently how amazing is that ! BBB

Re: Rotted Transom
 

I did this last spring. Make sure you have the cabin completely sealed off with plastic sheet and masking tape. Put covers over everything you might touch.

The dust from the grinding gets everywhere and when it's time for resin you don't have time to be careful. Mask the whole rear of the boat and put down layers of cardboard on the floor. It's a PIA job but one that is worth doing right. I did away with my drain plug and have 3 auto bilge pumps. I had to replace the whole inner transom, rebuild the so called integral swim platform, 4' of both stringers and six feet of floor.

While I was at it I switched over to the mercruiser solid offshore type engine mount, another PIA job.

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Show some pics...

Re: Rotted Transom
 

They are in this thread. http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...hlight=transom

I strpped the boat from the helm back. Ended up taking it to a shop for the wood and fiberglass. Then put everthing back.

Make sure any holes you cut in the new transom are coated with resin.

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Ahh ha.

I ought to do transom replacements on the side...

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Im about to take on doing my transom in a scarab 400 flower pot...and super duper tips other then using the transom plate holes to bolt it down during the cure??

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i replaced the transom in my donzi... the bottom half was rotten. everything has pretty much been covered... The way i applied pressure is a bit different... piece of threaded rod, some nuts and washers and a trailer leaf spring and scrap wood work wonders for keeping even pressure on things to get a good tight clamp...

sorry bout the photo size... not a paying member so i have to hyperlink..

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...3/IMG_3824.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...3/IMG_3823.jpg

Re: Rotted Transom
 

My idea for applying pressure is pretty similar to yours. Im not taking the deck off, and I just about finnished re "blocking" the stringers, I ran out of darn hardner today so its gonna have to wait. I have tons of photos, How do you do a hyper link and why are the responses not going to my email?

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My idea for the pressure is to use 2x4s or 2x6s on the back of the boat vertically using the transom plate bolt holes , the exaust holes, and the water pick up holes to run bolts through...

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I had this same thing done at one of the shops mentioned. Great Lakes Boat Repair. This is the only place Formula will send you to if you ask them who they recommend. If you are considering them send me a PM. I'll share my experience.

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im in RI, But how much did it cost you?

Re: Rotted Transom
 

It has been a few years so I cant remember the exact amount. I can dig up the receipt if it's important, but it will take me a while. I think 5-7k. The inside of the engine compartment (transom+sides) was gutted right out to the exterior fiberglass. The stringers were completely removed from the transom to the bulkhead and I think even the bulkhead itself was replaced. Every thing was replaced, re glassed and repainted on the inside. Some minor repair was done to the exterior paint. I do have some complaints about the work but will discuss them privately. I don't believe you have a Formula, but this is who they recommend for structural repairs (for what that's worth to you).

Re: Rotted Transom
 

I'm not as brave as some of you...took ours to Rich Sutphen to replace the transom...s/b finished in a week or so...