Re: Rotted Transom
 

Where are the pictures?

Re: Rotted Transom
 

Hey I know this thread is a little old but I didn't want to start a new one since this one is already right on topic for my question.

I found you guys via google and maybe you can be my lifesavers. :)

So...I am a poor college student taking the summer off to relax and do something besides school.

I found this beautiful old four winns 17" walk through with a solid (but rusty) trailer.

The boat is SOLID except for the transom. Not rot...but wood separation.

The separation doesn't seem to go all the way to the hull (probably 6" margin all the way around).

The boat/trailer is basically free. No motor. It was setup for an IO which was removed, nothing left but a hole in the transom. I am not worried about the motor because I have sources. I may set it up for a outboard since I have to redo the transom anyway, but if I find a new IO i may just do that and see if it saves me work on the transom.

So I haven't taken the thing yet because if it turns into too much work the boat will just become a liability because I won't be able to finish it. I am resourceful but don't have tons of cash.

Anyway, a couple solutions I have been tossing around to deal with this (so my transom doesn't fall off and sink me)...

Sawzall the whole transom out. Buy marine plywood and glass it in setting it up either for another IO or an outboard. This is very labor intensive route and fairly expensive material costs.

Another option, I can go to the boeing surplus and pick up scrap aluminum 1/4" plates and cut them to size, put one on the inside and one on the outside and bolt them together. Ugly but functional. This route would probably lead me to just putting another IO in so i don't have to screw with modifying the shape of the transom.

Another option is making some large fancy outboard bracket that mounts to the floor and has bracings to the floor and hull and sticks out through the transom but puts no mechanical stress on the the transom. Then I just seal up the IO hole and go.

Another option is drilling a ton of holes in the transom and filling with fiberglass to try and seal up the separation throughout the wood.

Another option is just making a big fat ugly outboard bracket, bolting it on to the existing transom with a backplate and lots of bracings inside holding it together.

I am looking for other ideas and your opinions on these. I am trying to figure out by tomorrow or monday whether or not this is doable for me in under a month and for around $600 tops (just talking transom materials here).

It is such a pretty boat and the right price too...such a shame that the transom isn't solid. Just makes me sick which is why I really want this to work out.

Thanks!

Kind regards,

Matthew

Re: Rotted Transom
 

Here is the clamping system

Re: Rotted Transom
 

Construction is finnished. It came out better than I expected it to. I'm nearly done painting the engine bay and the transom exterior. I'll do pics after the Holiday...

Re: Rotted Transom
 

Bryan...

Looks like you have done a great job.
I hope your engines are coming along as well.

Steve

Re: Rotted Transom
 

Steve,

They are. I will drop them off at the dyno next week. Then install them and work out the bugs with the boat. Every step has taken longer than I anticipated. Doing it myself has saved a ton of money and I get a sense of satisfaction BUT, if I paid to have it done I'd be in the water. Oh well...

Re: Rotted Transom
 

Nice Job!

Re: Rotted Transom
 

How do I keep the saws all blade from wandering when I cut the new Key hole?

Re: Rotted Transom
 

Cut inside of your border then sand to the exact dimension or use a jigsaw which is more precise to cut with.

Bryan

Re: Rotted Transom
 

Whatever you do, take your time and do it right. Get as much of the rotted wet wood out as possible, and dry it out good.
Acetone works well to remove water because when it evaporates, it takes water with it. I did a job with a friend that ended up failing and now I have to bring the boat back from Nj, and rip the motor out and re- do the repair. I did a conversion from Omc to Merc. I used a friend's help who had 40 years experience doing fiberglass repairs in the boatyard. During the repair, I told him that I didn't think that there was enough of an overlap, tapering out the glasswork, and didn't feel that enough layers of mat were used. he told me it would be plenty strong. We dried out the transom with a reddy heater for about 2 days. Anyway the outer skin cracked and was noticed opon haulout. Pick as many brains as possible. If you feel that some part of the repair is inadequate, it may be and you would be better off over doing it than skimping or taking a shortcut. I recommend using stainless #10 1and1/4" screws, and screw plywood real good. Also mark out where keyhole will be and don't use many screws in that area. I recommend 1and1/2 ounce chopmat. Cabosil also , but it has no structural strength, good for filling and fairing. Make sure there are no voids, where cracks will develop.

I don't want to see anybody go through the heartache I'm still going through over this. The puzzle piece plug and repair was done right, but overall strength was limited because repair was not tied into the boat good enough.
I'm going to redo it, and go further into the transom, and grind the area out further, also wrapping the repair around the bottom of the boat. I've heard that Epoxy repairs stick well to polyester, and poly repairs to epoxy. You can bet I'm doing more homework on this so this never happens again. Maybe you can buy a whole transom for this, A local yard was able to get one from Grady White for a 1978 boat recently how amazing is that ! BBB