Stellings standoff box alignment
#12
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I just had my Stellings boxes off for re-finishing. I marked the spacers and carrier struts on removal.
The Merc alignment tool does not fit into the spline reciever.
There is a little play in the mounting holes, so the gimbal housing can be moved up/down slightly on the Stellings box to align the gimbal bearing with the spline reciever.
Haven't put the drives back on yet, but was going to check with Stellings on alignment procedure.
The Merc alignment tool does not fit into the spline reciever.
There is a little play in the mounting holes, so the gimbal housing can be moved up/down slightly on the Stellings box to align the gimbal bearing with the spline reciever.
Haven't put the drives back on yet, but was going to check with Stellings on alignment procedure.
#13
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Location: Huntington Beach California
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I just had my Stellings boxes off for re-finishing. I marked the spacers and carrier struts on removal.
The Merc alignment tool does not fit into the spline reciever.
There is a little play in the mounting holes, so the gimbal housing can be moved up/down slightly on the Stellings box to align the gimbal bearing with the spline reciever.
Haven't put the drives back on yet, but was going to check with Stellings on alignment procedure.
The Merc alignment tool does not fit into the spline reciever.
There is a little play in the mounting holes, so the gimbal housing can be moved up/down slightly on the Stellings box to align the gimbal bearing with the spline reciever.
Haven't put the drives back on yet, but was going to check with Stellings on alignment procedure.
#14
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When I assembled my bravo 1 extension box I noticed that there was a lot of clearance between the transom assembly studs and the mounting holes in the box so I made two bushings,one top left stud and bottom right.The purpose of the bushings was to ensure repeatability when taking the T.A. on and off .Then I made an assortment of shims (.002" to.125") to go under the bearing and repeatedly assembled the bearing adding shims,tightening bolts etc, until I could insert my alignment tool .I then added another .005 shim to confirm that I was on the right track. I removed the last .005 shim then took all the shims out ,measured each side respectively and made one solid shim for each side.I was pleased that months later when I bolted it all back together ,including re-installing the Transom assy. and everthing slid right together.Keep in mind this this is a fit and try process that took several attempts to achieve the correct shim height.
Sorry for the novel
Rob
Sorry for the novel
Rob
#15
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Stellings tech suggested I just try hanging my drives, or I may see if I can find a spare spline/yoke shaft tomarrow to check the alignment with.
#16
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Stellings technical "thought" the Merc alignment tool should fit the carrier flange, but mine do not and there is no evidence of abnormal wear on the spline teeth. Another respected OSO member and I believe Merc certified tech staated his experience was aslo the alignment tool did not fit.
Stellings tech suggested I just try hanging my drives, or I may see if I can find a spare spline/yoke shaft tomarrow to check the alignment with.
Stellings tech suggested I just try hanging my drives, or I may see if I can find a spare spline/yoke shaft tomarrow to check the alignment with.
Last edited by seahawk; 05-02-2007 at 07:29 PM.
#17
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Red,
I found on mine that you have to pound the alignment tool into the splines to remove the "points" off the splines. Call Craig Kennedy at Pier 75 and he can explain it better than I can. What year were your boxes? If they are mid to late 90's, you may find that you will also have to follow the re-shim process that was described in this thread. The one where you have to make new custom shims.
I found on mine that you have to pound the alignment tool into the splines to remove the "points" off the splines. Call Craig Kennedy at Pier 75 and he can explain it better than I can. What year were your boxes? If they are mid to late 90's, you may find that you will also have to follow the re-shim process that was described in this thread. The one where you have to make new custom shims.
#18
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Red,
I found on mine that you have to pound the alignment tool into the splines to remove the "points" off the splines. Call Craig Kennedy at Pier 75 and he can explain it better than I can. What year were your boxes? If they are mid to late 90's, you may find that you will also have to follow the re-shim process that was described in this thread. The one where you have to make new custom shims.
I found on mine that you have to pound the alignment tool into the splines to remove the "points" off the splines. Call Craig Kennedy at Pier 75 and he can explain it better than I can. What year were your boxes? If they are mid to late 90's, you may find that you will also have to follow the re-shim process that was described in this thread. The one where you have to make new custom shims.
There are no points on my "flange" (as Stellings tech referred to it). Faces of the splines are flat without abnormal wear or pointing. Boxes are '99 or more likely '98 production.
They are visually very close, they can probably be dialed in with a spare yoke shaft if I can find one.
I know Craig. He has been on my boat. I'll get his opinion tomarrow.
Thanks,
Chris