HiPerf2000

iTrader: (2)

Looking for some help figuring out my silent choice problems.

I'm not really sure how the setup works. It is a Merc setup with airpump. From what i have been reading in threads is that air pressure is used to keep the flaps OPEN. And a relief valve lets the air out, allowing them to CLOSE (silent). Is this correct ? Seems like it should be opposite ?

Anyway mine are stuck OPEN (thru hull). i hit (and hold) the switch and i hear an air relief noise, but they do not CLOSE (silent). I can see the actuators on each of the 4 pipes move about 2 inches.....but that is not enough to work. I can go back there and push them by hand the rest of the way to get them fully closed and it works fine. they do not feel to be bound up at all.

What can be my problem? Is air not escaping the system through a relief valve to let them close ?

thanks
Mark

bouncedcheque

Mark: I don't know if the silent choice operates the same as the Corsa Quick and Quiet system, but I have a similar problem with my Q&Q right now and was told that the circular baffle that opens and closes and is driven by the actuator is held together inside by a screw that can become loosened if the system is run in an overheat situation for even a matter of minutes. Apparently, there is a washer that melts and allows the screw to loosen. The fix is to remove that part of the system and to replace the washer and tighten the screw. Mine was the same in that if I pulled back on the arm while running the system would close. I was told to fix the problem asap as the baffle fall out completely and possibly do more damage.

mobilecal

If you have to repair it, could you replace the washers with metal ones to eliminate the problem in the future?

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

Since the system is venting, from your description of the valve exhausting, partial closing and the ability to fully close manually, that only leaves the valves to be sticking. The 4 air cylinders are spring return. They will close if any leaks in the system. The springs will not overcome binding or dirt. Granted, you can close them by hand, but it takes VERY little for them to stick. I'm guessing that you can just nudge them to get them to close, and not have to close them fully by hand?? The geometry of the slotted lever allows for some movemment from the cylinder rod with very little resistance at both ends of the stroke. In mid stroke, the alignment of the cylinder has to be just right to prevent binding, providing the linkage is greased. Loosen 1 of the mounting screws so that the cyl. can be slightly pivoted until they work properly. then retighten. You can check this before hand by pushing on the end of the cyl. itself next time they stick. If they close, loosen 1 of the mounting screws and move mount until all is good.

KLEEN SWEEP

Mark,

your problem is carbon build up on the shafts that actually open and close on
the inside of the exhaust. You can try to clean them or spray them with wd-40
threw the inside of your exhaust tips, this will help or just be a tempory fix. It didnt
work for me. The problem is carbon build up gets into both seals on each side of
the shaft. Some guys have drilled and installed grease zerk fittings on the arm
side and pump grease into the housing,but the grease never gets between the
seals and shaft. Heres the fix, it takes time but other than an air leak youll
never have this problem again. Parts needed for each engine, 4 outter seals,
4 inner seals, 2 standard zerk fittings and caps. Remove air lines from each
silent choice assembly,remove the complete unit (you might have to remove
exhaust tips if you cant slide exhaust hose back far enough) . once this is done
make a note of how far the shaft sticks out on the arm side, then remove screws
on the flap on the inside and the shaft will come out. Important!! remember which
side the flat spot of the shaft faces so when putting back together the shaft turns
in the same direction. On the arm side, using the proper drill size for the zerk fitting
drill a hole in the top of the housing. Slide the shaft back in to its original spot with
the new bushing seal, re drill letting drill tip go threw seal and just mark the shaft.
Install shaft in a drill press and using a file hit that mark and put a small groove around
the shaft.This will allow for some room for the grease to get in preventing carbon
build up. For the other side, you must drill into the end of the shaft deep enough
to line up to the middle of that bushing seal, then drill the outter part of the shaft to
meet the inner hole.( Dont go threw the hole shaft) Groove the t-bone hole to accept grease and install zerk fitting in end of shaft. clean and grease everything and
put back together. When putting grease into fittings it will not take much,do not force the grease in ,you will force the outter seals out. I know this was long and
possibly confusing. If anyone has any questions call me 516-798-7222
I made this a winter project and never had a problem again going on 7yrs.
hope I was of some help Mark, take care, Jeff

powerguy

Your valves are sticking. Did on mine too. Just rub the shafts of the valves with liquid dish detergent and get some it in the pinhole on the cylinder. Work the valve back and forth and repreat a couple times and it will clear up.

dyno

take it off sell it and buy Teague switchable mufflers I'm going to!!!