The first step in making the new oil line from filter to cooler is to find this rare adapter that goes from inverted flare to AN-8. The rest of the line uses AN-8 because that's what the oil filter head has on the out line. The in line however was inverted flare, that's why we reused the stock steel lines. The last shot shows the new oil lines bundled with the fuel return line from the cooler. There's even a hose under there someplace that connects the PCV from this valve cover to the other side's valve cover.

Hi Marty:

Thanks for the help. I can see what you did.

The inside cavity of the '96 Merc fuel rail is big enough for all, but it is fed from one end through a short section of 3/8 line. I could tee after the red fuel filter and feed both ends pretty easily. I don't think I would have to remove the rail mounted AZS&M regulator.

I have been following AZS&M's instructions. They said to retain the small supply and return lines because of the difficulty of machining the stock fuel rail for say AN-8 fittings. Vortech does not provide anything for this situation because their basic kit is only for 570 HP. I figure if the 3/8 line is a restriction, we will see it on the fuel pressure gauge, because the rail will be under-supplied. This would likely affect all injectors drawing off that large cavity in the rail.

This is why all the other lines in the supply are either -10 or -8, with the return line being -8 as well to avoid any over pressure problems at idle with the big Aeromotive pump.

Here's a picture of the headers. On one of them the water inlet bung for the elbow, which isn't used anyway, was cut off and welded, then polished. You have to look close to notice it. The last picture shows why this cutting and welding must be done.

I have done everything I can do; now the engines are in the hands of the shop doing the install. The boat is also getting new XR drives at the same time. The dyno shop let us down and put us off after 3 weeks of saying they would get to it. Try getting dyno time at the last minute anywhere else at this time of year. Anyway, we will find out if everything is OK out on the water. Isn't that what Captain Ron says?

Seriously though, this fuel pump/injector/ECU configuration has been done before many times by Vortech and AZS&M. We aren't expecting to do much more than adjust the IAC counts and tweak the fuel pressure.

We test fired one of the engines today. Idled fine, good fuel pressure, no fuel or oil leaks. Left the intercoolers off until the engines are installed. Fuel pump to be attached to the stringer just in front of the engine on starboard side.

Tomcat,
Finally got my boat back today. They also found 4 loose valve seats. Ended up replacing all of them. Replaced all the exhaust valves with Inconel, Intakes with Severe duty Stainless, new valve springs, FelPro gaskets, new head bolts, valve guides, seals, and I also had them install a water pressure gauge. Hopefully no more problems. I've been out of the country for a while and I see you are making some good headway on those engines. Hope they perform well for you. Keep us informed.

Tom

The water pressure gauge is a good idea. Where do you pick up the water for the intercooler? Nordic Heat had a problem with head gasket/detonation and he suspected that part of the problem was the intercooler was not getting enough water. It wouldn't hurt to flush out the intercooler core while you're at it. You can do it just by reversing the water lines in/out on the intercooler for a while.

I noticed in Miami that Stainless Marine introduced a separate intercooler strainer at the boat show. It had a fine mesh bag that took out smaller particles that would pass through a regular strainer; particles that wouldn't hurt the engine but might clog the water passages in an intercooler. I don't have any experience with the piece but it makes you wonder how many supercharged engines are running around with partially clogged intercoolers.

This is where an intake air temperature probe would be good. The aftermarket EFI systems can data log this so you can see any reduction in intercooler performance. When Vortech sells a reprogrammed ECU it will go into limp home mode if intake air temperature goes above 140F, indicating an intercooling problem.

Good luck for the rest of the summer.

We have one of the engines in the boat now, almost everything hooked up. It's close but the intercooler does fit under the hatch. We had to rearrange a few things like drive reservoirs and Latham reservoir but no big deal.

Both Aeromotive fuel pumps are through bolted on the same four bolts through the center stringer. We ended up using Mercury trim pump relays to trigger these pumps. It's a proven waterproof harness. This is the final view of the lines on the stbd side of the engine. Everything fits in a tight but logical arrangement. This closeup of the front of the engine shows the fuel supply and return lines for the EFI and the small, tasteful Rtech supercooler engraving.

The other fuel pump and the Mercury relay and harness. The EFI wiring harness has two wires that were originally used to run the VST electric pump. These two wires are used to trigger the relay. This is neat because the ECU will energize these wires for 5 seconds and then turn off if no RPM is sensed. This is a good safety feature.

The second engine is leak tested and run to check for oil leaks, adjust base fuel pressure, idle quality. Tomorrow this engine goes in the boat.

The first engine is completely installed and all sub systems for the second engine completed (fuel pump, relay harness, intercooler hose and thru hull fittings, moved drive reservoirs, hydraulic steering) and last but not least the XR drive. Hope to be in the water on Friday!

Second (stbd) engine going in the boat. You do as much little stuff as you can before this, because after the second engine goes in that isn't much room to work.