lukiepal

Putting new disc brake calipers on my trailer, how do I bleed the system?

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

Here is what I did, which worked quite well for me.

I actually used the little pump you use to fill your outdrive with; for brake fluid. I ziptied the hose to the brake bleeder valve, and then pumped fluid into the system, to push all the air and then fluid toward the coupler, with the reservoir cap off. I started with the caliper farthest (tubing length) from the coupler, and worked my way closer.

Then, I used a ratchet tie down strap hooked around my winch post, and around the ball (socket) of the trailer tongue, to apply pressure to the surge coupler. I did this to each caliper, again starting with the caliper farthest from the coupler. Attach a drain hose via ziptie to each the bleeder valve, and run this down into a glass jar, about half full with brake fluid. Apply pressure to the surge coupler, until you see no air bubbles passing down the fluid tube, into the glass jar, and then bubbling through the brake fluid. (You really will get very few if you fill from the caliper forward like I mention above.) Do this for each caliper.

Take it out and drive it a few miles with a few solid stops, and then double check if you have to top off your brake fluid.

Also, with all the bleeder screws tightened, using the ratchet strap around the coupler, your can do a leak test on your whole system, incrementally with increasing pressure. This is also a great way to set your brakes when parking the trailer, perhaps on an incline, in addition to your wheel chocks.

Airpacker

The easiest way possible.Go to autozone or the like,buy a mighty vac set. Fill the resevoir, open one bleeder, connect the mighty vac hand vacum pump and small resevoir bottle to the open bleeder and pull air then fluid through the system. When clean, bubble free fluid is flowing,close the bleeder, refill resevoir, move to next bleeder. No pumping of coupler should be necessary.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

I tried that route at 1st also. Only problem was when I cracked the bleeder enough to flow fluid, the fluid would flow around the threads also allowing for air to be sucked in there and not pulling a good flow thru the bleeder itself.

I used the break away lever to pump the brakes. Worked great.

rssteiny

fill your resavore hook up your truck put blocks behind the trailer wheels open bleeders have someone back up truck till your trailer toung slides in then close bleeders pull truck forward and repeat till you have no air. verry simple

lukiepal

Thanks, I was also thinking of getting another master cyl. cap drilling a hole taping and putting in a air hose fitting, then attach the airhose and add about 5psi?

lukiepal

rssteiny, I did a search and and the info you provided is the same on how too.. thanks

218diver

To stroke the master cylinder on my trailer, I hook the safety chains together to form a loop and use a board to push in on the coupler. It pushes very easy when the bleeder is open.

Tonto

I simply unhook the "control" line on the vacuum/hydraulic system which puts the brake system in "full lock" and open the bleeder valve. One person job, just alot of walking back and forth from truck to trailer brakes. Their is a great catalog put out by Redneck Trailer Supplies the main office is in Springfield, Mo. (417)864-5210. The vacuum/hydraulic system is the only way to go in my opinion.


http://www.redneck-trailer.com/pdf/L.pdf

Robert

rich allen

Using a board to stroke the piston is what works easy for me as well. A 2x6, about 5 foot long works great. Just jam the board into some soft ground at an angle, and you can easily stroke the piston inward. Just make sure someone is there to close the bleeder each time , BEFORE you release pressure on the board. And keep checking the reservoir every few strokes to make sure it didnt empty. I like this better then using a vehicle, because its safer for the guy opening and closing the bleeders, and easier for you two to hear each other as you say, open, and close about 25 times.