blue thunder

Removing the water tstat dropped my oil temps 30F with a cc system. Tried everything before that with little or no improvement. I was amazed. Now I run 200f cruise and 230 wot oil temps in 2 engines.

BT

audacity

valve springs!...running some lift in that engine are we???

250-260 @WOT or cruise?

26scarab

Dick,
just a recommendation, get that Fram filter out of there ! Back in the race car days we had MANY issues with Fram filter. Most of the time we would notice a loss of oil pressure, change the filter and pressure was back.
Last month Lenny had a customer that lost oil pressure in a 330, after the motor was out pan off, and several oil pumps later we were talking and he mentioned the Fram , told him to change it and sure enough oil pressure was back. I know this has nothing to do with your problem, just a heads up.

Mr Gadgets

Hey again thanks guys.. all good ideas!!
The oil flow is against the water flow, first thing I checked.
The oil will heat up the harder I run it! If I run for several miles it slowly climbs up to the 250 mark. If I lean on it more I can make it go as hot as I want, well till I chicken out.
Was that a Fram HP6 that was causing the problem on that boat? My buddy has run that setup for 5yrs at least and no problems! I waited to change mine after he had success!!

Not too much lift, it is a flat tappet cam, I think, yes cam card says .677/.703", I/E. but I just replaced the valve springs the end of last season, should be good there I am hoping.

I am tending to lean towards restricted water flow! The last boat I had this cooler in, I had dumps on the top of the tail pipes to shed more water. I dont have that on this boat. Forgot to tell CMI to add them. I am considering adding a tee after the cooler and before the motor to see if more water flow helps. I was told by a reliable source that there should only be a couple of degrees difference between the input and output water through the cooler.

What do you think guys.. keep em coming, It makes me think!!
Thanks

audacity

that is a good amount of lift...stock coolers???...waz not saying the spings were bad...more seat pressure=more heat.

"the cam card"...i hope you did cam timing on the engine?...your cam timing can play a vey large role in your issue...

26scarab

Dick,
Now that you mention it I don't think those were the HP series oil filters.

PatriYacht

This site http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...ilfilters.htmlhas some info on Fram filters. They were not very complimentery.

aero-offshore

Damn, better get that dura guard off my engine!!

Mr Gadgets

I think I saw that article on the oil filters, still waiting to see something specifically on the HP6. My buddy tore his motor down after 3yrs, I think and his engine builder said he could have reused the bearings in the bottom end.. so something is working.

The cooler I am running is 3" x 15". I was told it would do 900hp. Didnt have a problem with the other motor and boat with this cooler. And yes I spent a good amount of time getting the cam in there where I wanted it. With the flat tappet cam, I see 140lbs on the seat and 380 over the nose. I am hoping the setup is right, just not enough water going thru it.
Tonite I built a manifold to bleed off water just after the cooler, used a 3/4" ball valve and will run a hose out the back to try and see if more water helps. I need to hook up a water psi gauge, just too many mesquitoes out there tonite.
Tomorrow is a furlough day ( day off without pay), I wish everyone would pay their taxes so I can continue to work for this "Cool State" as the new Gov puts it! But I look at it this way, I could stand to loose a few pounds and I get to go boating on a day off. What more could a guy ask for?? Well time to hit..
Thanks again for the input. I will let you know how it all works out.

Dick

Mr Gadgets

Here is an update on my problem. I borrowed a laser temp gun and did a little bit of testing. When the gauge reads 250* after a decent run, I see about 200* on the in/out of the oil filter pad. I shot at the fittings because they are all the same color, and should give me consistent results. Well seeing that my oil temp is at 250 the stat should be wide open and forcing most of the oil through the cooler. Well in and out at the oil cooler are 160* and 140*. So I suggest that my expensive KE oil thermostat is just another expensive part that takes up room in the engine compartment and all it does is cause problems.
I bypassed it tonight, but then did some checking. I have been down on top end power so I figured it was time to check the valve lash. When I put it away last fall it was running good. But right out of the box this summer and it just doesn't seem to want to pull on the top end. Well I found one exhaust valve with .034" clearance, so I suspect it is time to rebuild the motor. Another fun summer project. I just may be using my wife's back up boat for the rest of the season..