I have a 1997 Scarab. Original White Gel Coat and original Hockey stick looking graphics on the side. I want to remove the side graphics but im worried about the fading and still being able to see the outline of the old sticker. My question is can I get rid of this or would I spend a bunch of time sanding and buffing for a slightly better finish but not completely gone??

Try E-Z off oven cleaner to remove the graphics, then wet sand an buff.

Odds are you will still see the fade.

Best way to cover it up would be with something new.

Or repaint the sides.

L.S.

I just went through what you did. On my 26' Scarab my wonderful employees decided to do me a favor and wash the boat. They used some chemical that ran all the painted on logo's and stickers! So I finished removing them! I color sanded the entire boat, compounded and buffed it! You can still see an outline and difference in color! I have replaced some of the stickers to break up the difference. Although I have noticed that once taking the boat out in the sun it all starting to look the same, the whole boat is tanning if you will! I hope this helps!

Bryan

What exactly is color sanding?

Color sanding is done for several reasons, and if done correctly, it can yield outstanding final results. The color-sanding process smooths out the minute waviness in the paint or gelcoat, and removes minor imperfections in the paint and the clearcoat (such as tiny particles of dust stuck in the clearcoat). But the amount of sanding needed for color sanding is far less than for sanding body filler or primer. Color sanding requires the use of special, very fine, high-grit sandpaper that removes very small amounts of the surface material. Traditional body-sanding paper is in the 40- to 260-grit range, whereas color-sanding paper is in the 1,200- to 4,000-grit range.

I guess thats how I would best describe it, anyone else?

On gel I have always used 1000 or 1200, no finer the use trouble shooter on a wool pad. I've used coarser compounds with the pad and then used a white foam pad with the trouble shooter with marginally better results. 1000 with the rubber "cheese grater" pad works great. Sand with long strokes until the gel/paint is smooth and hazy. Remember, the smoother the painted surface more "fiberglass waves" will show up. Look at repaired areas on cars for instance. Some paint shops will leave "texture" to the paint to aid in hiding less than perfect repairs.
In the end, if you are carefull w/ 1000 grit, you will buff the scratches right out.