baja208

Bruce, it is the Jaws. Thanks for the info on the engine builder. If Kurt did build it he does nice work. Everything in the engine seems to be done right. I decided to pull the engine and check it out. I found the front main bearing spun and this was causing the runout at the front of the crank. It doesnt look like the crank is bent at all but the front journal is wiped out along with the front main saddle. Does anyone know if a damaged main saddle can be repaired. It appears that it is more than a line bore can correct. Hate to loose the whole block because the rest of the motor is in good shape.

I have been trying to get some seat time in this boat to see if P-5 might be a possibility. Had it running 74 gps @ 5500rpm with the addition of a Hydromotive QIVx from Throttle-Up. This prop really helped overall handling and speed. Hope to have it repaired for Cambridge. I was thinking Cambridge or Camden might be a good place to run a 24' boat since these courses are somewhat protected.

BRUCE SEROFF

Well, I hope to see ya down there. P-5 would be a great class for you and Cambridge is the best place. The water doesnt get too rough and could be anyone's race.
Good luck.
If you need anymore help with the motor, Kurt is the man. if not, I know the previous owners, who might be able to help out. as well.

robyw1

Well try to have it align-bored anyway because if you can't you're gonna lose the block. I have never heard of anyone welding these up and boring them but that's not to say it hasn't been done. Keep in mind with align-boring that your timing set will have to be replaced with one designed for the given amount of the align-boring.

Roby

Big Boys Toys

Baja, take your tiime and do a thorough inspection of the crank shaft.
Then inspect all parts you pull out.
If they align bore and hone the block and install the shorter timing chain, they also need to relocate the dowell pins that are pressed into the back of the block where your bell housing attaches.
That centerline will also be changing and can cause a misalingment.
If you have to grind the crank, line hone the block, then find out that you need to bore the block, go for pistons, rings now we are spending too much money.
Quote a short block before you do the repair!!!
Keep us posted.
Good luck
Brian

baja208

Thanks for the replies. They are in line with what I have been thinking. Rest of the motor checks out and is in good shape. I didn't know if they made a sleeve or something to repair a single main saddle. Looks like the block has been line honed at least once. Only has about 50 hours on it. I think I know why the main bearing went. When I changed the oil for the first time after buying the boat I put on an Fram HP4 oil filter that has an anti-drainback valve. When I started it there was no oil pressure for ~1 min. The oil lines to the remote filter had been hooked up backwards but with the original oil filter without the drainback valve it didn't cause a problem. I imagine that is what has caused this problem. I have been looking at the 540 short blocks from world products. Anyone have experience with them?

cooltoys61

I thought when they line bored it was like resizing a rod cap,,they take material off the cap then bore the hole at the same distance to the ref point??

robyw1

Your right about milling off the main caps but it does raise the journal centerline higher in the block closer to the cam. it has to or else the block side of the journal would never be trued.

Roby

cooltoys61

I see what you mean ,but does it change your deck height to resize a rod? Maybe they just line honed my mains due to the spun rod bearing. I'll have to ask the shop if I need a shorter chain.

robyw1

Yes it does and it will reduce your compression unless the deck has been surfaced. If you are looking into doing align boring, and resizing rods. I'm thinking it is best to stop right there and find a new short block.

Roby