Camshaft Timing
#1
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Portage,IN
Posts: 538
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Camshaft Timing
I'm going to go with a Crane 741 camshaft in my 540 stroker motor.
The engine will be at 9.4:1 with Brodix 2Plus CNC heads with 950HP Holley.
Also CMI,MSD,JE , BLA BA D BLA BLA BLA,,,,,,,,,,,,
With a Cloyes adjustable timing chain at what position would be recommendable
to install the camshaft??
The engine will be at 9.4:1 with Brodix 2Plus CNC heads with 950HP Holley.
Also CMI,MSD,JE , BLA BA D BLA BLA BLA,,,,,,,,,,,,
With a Cloyes adjustable timing chain at what position would be recommendable
to install the camshaft??
#4
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Re: Camshaft Timing
Course it's noticeable.
But the cam is already ground on 107 ICL. If you have a properly indexed crank sprocket, a ZERO offset timing set "should" put you where you want to be.
I advise checking with a degree wheel though.
But the cam is already ground on 107 ICL. If you have a properly indexed crank sprocket, a ZERO offset timing set "should" put you where you want to be.
I advise checking with a degree wheel though.
#7
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
When you say they are advanced one notch, do you mean they are one notch MORE than the way they are ground, or do you mean one notch past the 112 deg separation when measured on a degree wheel with dial indicator?
Those cams COME 5 degrees advanced, so when you use a standard no-offset timing chain set, if the crank snout is properly keyed, then the cam will be 5 degrees advanced.
If you are one notch advanced PAST the already-ground advance, then you are trading max hp for a little more bottom end.
When you play with cam timing, you are balancing exhaust reversion against how you tilt the torque curve.
I would guess that your best "safe" max hp setting on an HP500 would be 4 degrees advanced - which is 1 degree LESS than straight up per the marks.
MC
Those cams COME 5 degrees advanced, so when you use a standard no-offset timing chain set, if the crank snout is properly keyed, then the cam will be 5 degrees advanced.
If you are one notch advanced PAST the already-ground advance, then you are trading max hp for a little more bottom end.
When you play with cam timing, you are balancing exhaust reversion against how you tilt the torque curve.
I would guess that your best "safe" max hp setting on an HP500 would be 4 degrees advanced - which is 1 degree LESS than straight up per the marks.
MC
#8
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: pa
Posts: 2,233
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When you say they are advanced one notch, do you mean they are one notch MORE than the way they are ground, or do you mean one notch past the 112 deg separation when measured on a degree wheel with dial indicator?
Those cams COME 5 degrees advanced, so when you use a standard no-offset timing chain set, if the crank snout is properly keyed, then the cam will be 5 degrees advanced.
If you are one notch advanced PAST the already-ground advance, then you are trading max hp for a little more bottom end.
When you play with cam timing, you are balancing exhaust reversion against how you tilt the torque curve.
I would guess that your best "safe" max hp setting on an HP500 would be 4 degrees advanced - which is 1 degree LESS than straight up per the marks.
MC
Those cams COME 5 degrees advanced, so when you use a standard no-offset timing chain set, if the crank snout is properly keyed, then the cam will be 5 degrees advanced.
If you are one notch advanced PAST the already-ground advance, then you are trading max hp for a little more bottom end.
When you play with cam timing, you are balancing exhaust reversion against how you tilt the torque curve.
I would guess that your best "safe" max hp setting on an HP500 would be 4 degrees advanced - which is 1 degree LESS than straight up per the marks.
MC
#9
"I would guess that your best "safe" max hp setting on an HP500 would be 4 degrees advanced - which is 1 degree LESS than straight up per the marks. "
mcollinstn is saying that 4 degrees is best. If your notches are in 4 degree increments then you want to set it at 0. This will give you the 5 degree advance that is ground in, and is as close as you can get to his recomended 4 degrees. You are running 9 degrees and are probably giving up some top end horse power for bottom end power.
mcollinstn is saying that 4 degrees is best. If your notches are in 4 degree increments then you want to set it at 0. This will give you the 5 degree advance that is ground in, and is as close as you can get to his recomended 4 degrees. You are running 9 degrees and are probably giving up some top end horse power for bottom end power.
#10
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: pa
Posts: 2,233
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
"i would guess that your best "safe" max hp setting on an hp500 would be 4 degrees advanced - which is 1 degree less than straight up per the marks. "
mcollinstn is saying that 4 degrees is best. If your notches are in 4 degree increments then you want to set it at 0. This will give you the 5 degree advance that is ground in, and is as close as you can get to his recomended 4 degrees. You are running 9 degrees and are probably giving up some top end horse power for bottom end power.
mcollinstn is saying that 4 degrees is best. If your notches are in 4 degree increments then you want to set it at 0. This will give you the 5 degree advance that is ground in, and is as close as you can get to his recomended 4 degrees. You are running 9 degrees and are probably giving up some top end horse power for bottom end power.