I agree with Mnfastboat. My sonic has the fresh water flush. All it is, is a T between the raw water pump and the transom plate. The flush inlets are on the swim platform and are capped. I have no petcock. Obviously, for this to work right the hose connection needs to be capped when boat is running in the water otherwise the pump is drawing air.

I like the Guardian system though. No need to run the engine and if you have to, you can still flush the engines whil the boat is in the water.

Has anyone out here run that Guardian system on a High Perf motor ?

I have the Guardian on a 7.4 L MPI. It's not that I don't trust it, but I now flush with the Guardian and run the engine with the muffs. I had contacted the manufacture (because I didn't think it was working) but he asured me it was by my description of what it was doing (very slight vibration, hardly noticeable). If you go for it, definately go for the HP model (more flushing capacity).

[ 11-17-2001: Message edited by: bimini run ]

Thanks for the comments, where did you get yours at ?

Jon,

As some have already said, go with the MST Guardian. Very easy to install, even easier to us. The best money I have spent.

Mark

It seems all of these "easy" systems only flush the engine. Does water get back to the drive to flush it out too? Or does this not matter? - Ray

JOn, sorry for the delayed response. Worked all weekend

How I explained it is what Ihave seen and learned from being done on over a dozen different boats. At Idle everything is getting more then enough water. I have idled this way for over 30 minutes and the temp is under normal control. I like this alot better then the muffs. When you are inside the boat you cannot see if hte muffs come loose until it is to LATE I have seen that happen. If you need to run higher then 2,000 rpm then I might be running a higher pressure on the hose.

RayPanic, what I do to make sure the drive gets flushed using the above mention setup on mine is to turn on the hose first. Without the engine running the water takes the less resitance path, right out the drive. I have had this happen EVER time. By hte time you turn on the hose, get up into the boat and so on, several minutes or more have passed. More then enough time to flush the drive. When you start the engine the water will be pulled into the raw water pump by its suction. This will leave only a trace or less going to hte drive. When I am winterizing I already have the jug hooked up and sitting on hte edge of the open engine bay. After doing what you need, warm up to open stat, start a little fogging, I open up the bottle to the antifreeze once the water is shut off. Once the freeze is running through the tips, I start heavily fogging the throttle body. Then starve it out on the lasthalf gallon. Shut down the motor, At this time the water is still off and was just using straight freeze. With the bottle being up on the side of the engine bay, the gravity will allow the remainder half gallon to gallon of freeze to drain down and follow the once agian easy path and drain into the outdrive to protect what left over water is in the drive.

Sorry this was long, but descriptive.

Mnfastboat: You did not strike me as that anal!!! Flushing after a fresh water run? I am running in salt but I have never flushed after fresh water. Why would you bother?

Sorry Jon, I must have missed typed or you read wrong.
I do not flush after running. Unless I know I was too close to some sand or mud

I was referring this entire post on winterization practices.

Audio,

In the thread http://www.offshoreonly.com/forum/sh...light=guardian you mentioned you simply wished there was a mechanism you could install that would allow you to hook up a hose and simply turn on the engines. It exists, and I've been using it for 4 summers now.

I bought a pair in 1998. It appears the product is now OEM'd to Perko, who just started selling it through BoatUS and other outlets. When I bought it, you could only find it through special orders or at distribution levels. It uses a spring loaded valve which shuts down the outdrive path when you turn on a hose.

You put the valve inline between the raw water pump, and the outdrive. Attach a permanent hose to run to your outside fittings. Turn on the hose about 1/4 turn, start your engines, then turn on hose full blast. The pressure from the hose shuts a spring loaded valve to the drives, so no air or suction comes/goes to the drives.

Here is a link to the new Perko model Mine is a Sherwood and uses stainless steel springs, assuming the Perko does as well. Get the diameter of your hose, it's either 5/8", 1" or 1 1/4", and try it out. For $67 each, it's worth trying. Paying too much if you find them for more, so save the money and put it in your gas tank. Bought mine from NorShipCo who is now part of Western Branch Diesel in Portsmouth, Virginia. 757.673.7200