For the anodized parts use E-Z OFF OVEN CLEANER Heavy duty. Go ahead and laugh. Spray on very heavy coats and let it sit for hours. Be advised it will also keep eating the aluminum if you leave it too long. Last year I stripped about 50 parts on my boat. Cheap and easy to do.

In my opinion, it would look bad. The p/c is thick and rubbery, so it would be noticable under the paint.

BTW - I painted mine afterwards. I'll never have another p/c piece of hardware on a boat.

Wally,
Let me know if I can be of help on that drive.. anytime.

Cig, how long did the EM coating last. I have had mine since 2000 and it worries me that some day I will find in falling off, like my Dana tabs??
I dont realish the idea of having to strip it.. but I aggree.. no more PC for me..

Dick

As some have indicated, as soon as you get a nick that goes down to bare metal it's all over. Corrosion gets underneath and lifts the PC. Mine lasted 2-3 years (I run 50/50 in salt water vs fresh). Now I can simply touch up the paint without worrying about it.

The photo at the top of this page is my boat with some "photoshopping" work. I repainted the SP purple after stripping it.

http://www.xmpinc.com/Scripts/Swim_Platforms.asp

Sandblaster guy called and he got it off, but it wasnt cheap- $350!!! Oh well, what kind of primer/paint should I use? Thinking of going w/ a metalic silver to match my Cig. emblem.

Use a good zinc chromate primer to prevent corrosion. I used House of Kolors metallic purple paint on mine, but they have a silver.

Well, now you have me confused as well. I have been putting off for two years my winter project of removing my windshield, which was originally painted, and stripping it down, sending to a shop, and getting it powdercoated. The current paint on it starting to look its age, with flaking around the snaps for the mooring cover, from the salt water. Thought powdercoating was the way to go, but many of you are complaining about durability when it gets scratched. Now , I have to re-think this.

IMRON

Nothing better for boat parts. PC has nothing more than a mechanical bond to it's substrate, that's why leaving it rough allows it to hold better. With a paint system, a good epoxy etching primer will chemically bond to the metal substrate as well as be tough enough to resist corrosion creep if you do get a scratch. I top the imron off with AFS Evershield. Virtually impermeable when you're done.

Don't attempt to use Imron at home- you need a booth and a fresh air mask system- I wouldn't trust any respirator. It's full of cyanoacrylates- bad stuff.

There's alot of mystery that surrounds powdercoat- it's actually a pretty basic process. It really isn't anything more than very finely ground plastic that's blown onto an electrically charged part, then melted to flow out and have the particles adhere to each other and the substrate. There are different combinations and formulations of chemicals (plastics & other additives) that go into the process. None of the plastics used have much resistance to methylene chloride, which is the base for most epoxy systems. If it will cut epoxy, it will cut urethanes and alkyds. Try this-

http://www.eldoradochem.com/methylen...-strippers.htm

Don't attempt to use Imron at home- you need a booth and a fresh air mask system- I wouldn't trust any respirator. It's full of cyanoacrylates- bad stuff.[/QUOTE]

Shoot it outside?? For small parts and motors??