Is this motor winterized safely?
#32
Originally Posted by gripit
What is the actual point of fogging the motors and why if you do fog the motors do you then in turn have to change your spark plugs in the spring?
#34
Originally Posted by puder
taht how i uslaly do it too. This year cus my batteries weredead and i had to do alast miute superfast winterize (it got asuper cold one night) i drained my block and dumped -100 AF till it was full. My ok like that?
The Pink -50 RV AF freezes at 18* (Not -18), It wont expand until it gets to -50. I dont know the freeze point on the -100, but dont think it wont freeze.
And yes, you are more than fine using -100, I used -50.
Do not forget to add stablizier in fuel before hand, so it is able to get into fuel system.
Fogging- prevents rust, it can never hurt to change plugs in the spring, one less thing to worry about when it is 80* and sunny.
#36
Originally Posted by HyperBaja
Interesting info- your af freezes well before -100F.
The Pink -50 RV AF freezes at 18* (Not -18), It wont expand until it gets to -50. I dont know the freeze point on the -100, but dont think it wont freeze.
And yes, you are more than fine using -100, I used -50.
Do not forget to add stablizier in fuel before hand, so it is able to get into fuel system.
Fogging- prevents rust, it can never hurt to change plugs in the spring, one less thing to worry about when it is 80* and sunny.
The Pink -50 RV AF freezes at 18* (Not -18), It wont expand until it gets to -50. I dont know the freeze point on the -100, but dont think it wont freeze.
And yes, you are more than fine using -100, I used -50.
Do not forget to add stablizier in fuel before hand, so it is able to get into fuel system.
Fogging- prevents rust, it can never hurt to change plugs in the spring, one less thing to worry about when it is 80* and sunny.
HA yeha lek i'll actually get to use my boat next season! I acke dup a whole 4 hours this ear.
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Pardon me, while I whip this out!
#37
Registered

Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,107
Likes: 685
No ! but that way is great for the engine replacement bizz. it is Russian roulette to not drain the blocks guys that are testing the exaust water are forgetting that it is mostly bypass. they need to draw a sample off the block drain to see how much antifreeze they have! we often rewinterize for people after proving they have very little protection in the block(we are in upstate ny on lake ontario and it gets COLD with lots of snow)rv anti freeze is freezable with as little as 10% water.......ur call
#38
I personally never ran AF thru without draining the block and manifolds. I figure it takes me an extra 15 minutes to drain the manifolds and blocks. It's peice of mind for me that I have pure AF in the motor that's not diluted. It usually takes about 5 gallons, as soon as AF starts comming out the exhaust start fogging.
I was a mechanic for a local marnina for around 5 years and we weren't even allowed to winterize a motor without draining all the fresh water out due to insurance regulations.
I was a mechanic for a local marnina for around 5 years and we weren't even allowed to winterize a motor without draining all the fresh water out due to insurance regulations.
#40
Originally Posted by boostbros
No ! but that way is great for the engine replacement bizz. it is Russian roulette to not drain the blocks guys that are testing the exaust water are forgetting that it is mostly bypass. they need to draw a sample off the block drain to see how much antifreeze they have! we often rewinterize for people after proving they have very little protection in the block(we are in upstate ny on lake ontario and it gets COLD with lots of snow)rv anti freeze is freezable with as little as 10% water.......ur call


