WETTE VETTE

I haven't heard of them either. I found them on the web searching for alternatives to the impellar failure prone merc pumps. They are pretty knowledgeable and so far the pump has worked great. I figured it was worth a try!!

WETTE VETTE

Good to know Fred!!! I got a real good feeling about Dan and these pumps after speaking with him. Heck, a rebuild kit for a stock merc is abound $90.00 if a new ring is needed so spending $250 and getting a 1 yr guarantee seemed reasonable to me. If these can truely be run dry and take the abuse KPM claims it will be money well spent!!

Strip Poker 388

iTrader: (6)

Yea it doesent take much to wipe up one of the Merc pumps. I have been using the #807151a14 I have been getting a deal on them at 54.65 15%over for the kits. but using about 4 a year will add up .

Question??I wonder if you just replace the impeller or does it usually wear the housing also???

Fred Glad to know your picking them up

blue thunder

Glad you reminded me about the pans mbam. I would like to replace the cast aluminums with whatever will help oil temps. Not sure what that is though. Any cost affective solutions? My temps only slightly exceed 230f after extended WOT runs. Problem is the only way I can achieve this level of success is to run no tstats in the coolant system. If I put in 140f stats the oil temps will go over 250f which is too high in my book. I have quite a collection of main bearing to prove it.

BT

WETTE VETTE

Run a good 10 QT pan from Dooley, Gil, Stefs, or Dan olsen or others and only run 8-9 QTS. This will help keep excess oil from hitting the bottom of the pistons and will keep your oil temps down. The oil coolers you have should be able to keep your temps in check. Are you measuring your temps in the pan or after the oil cooler? 230 in the pan is a nice temp to run if it can be maintained. I measure mine in the pan and 250 is my shut down point and so far I haven't seen them get there. Are your oil coolers before or after your coolant heat exchangers? If they are after your coolant exchangers the pre-heated water could be causing your oil cooling efficiency to be less. Just some ideas i'm sure you've already considered.

Craig

blue thunder

I measure the oil temp at the filter pad which is first stop after the oil pump. I'll check out the pans you listed Wette Vette. Those are cool looking water pumps there. What type of pump are they, impellor, centrifugal.... seems like a great price for how they look.

Do you have prices yet Too Old on complete setup... bracket, pump, pulley flange etc?

BT

Mbam

BT, What kind of cast pans do you have? Should be possible to modify them. If the clearances are right, and the oil is not getting aerated 280 deg in the pan (using Mobil 1) is really not too scary.

I prefer aluminum over steel.

blue thunder

I have the cast aluminum pan that came stock on the 365 mag engines in late 1980s Mbam. Seem to hold 6 qts. What can be done to modify them to improve oil temps?

BT

Mbam

I'll try and take some pictures, I normally start with an Eickert or Mercury pan. You need to find a good friend with a TIG welder and some time, otherwise it coud get pricey.

mopower

Dave,I have Johnson crank mounted seawater pumps that pump half what the Merc pumps do. Max w/p is 10 psi yet my water temps rarely go over 150 and I don't think oil temp has ever seen 220...usually around 200. I DO have a 10 qt Canton pan. Total dry (initial) fill was 12 qts.Oil temp is taken off the pan as you can see in the pic.
The larger capacity may have something to do with it.
Cal