t500hps

I am having my drives pulled and opened. Just feel the need to check the internals of a recently purchased used boat. The drives are fine, but the paint looks rough. Any suggestions for paints/ epoxies to make them look new again? I hear new stickers are around $70.00 a set....is that true?
Russ C.

Croozin2

I found the article on Mercury's website. Here is the process and the PPG part numbers for the products. They are only using acrylic enamel but with the urethane hardener additive it is very durable. If you choose to use Dupont or BASF you can just have your local paint shop cross the numbers over. As far as a decal kit, they range in price depending on the application. The standard Bravo decals are less expensive than the newer Bravo HP decals - pick your poison.


Is there a factory authorized repainting procedure for my sterndrive?


Yes, MerCruiser has a refinishing procedure available. For best results we recommend this procedure be performed professionally.

Refinishing procedure:

This procedure should be used in refinishing MerCruiser sterndrives and transom plates. This procedure will provide the most durable paint system available in the field. The listed materials should be purchased from a local DITZLER AUTOMOTIVE finish supply outlet. The minimum packaged quantity of each material shown is sufficient to refinish several sterndrives and transom assemblies.

1 QT. DX-533 Alumiprep #33 metal preparation
1 QT. DX-503 Alodine #1201 conversion coating
1 QT. DP-40 Non sanding Epoxy Primer zinc chromate primer
1 QT. DP-401 Catalyst for DP-40
1 QT. DAR-9000 Acrylic Enamel-black topcoat
1 Pt. DXR-80 Delthane Ultra-additive for acrylic enamel
1 QT. DTR-602 Acrylic Enamel Reducer-temperature range 70-90 degree F.

PROCEDURE:

1. Scuff sand to remove all blistered paint and roughen factory finish. Remove sanding dust.
2. Follow manufacturer's recommendations and instructions on the individual containers.
3. Apply DX-533 (Alumiprep #33) to clean and condition the aluminum.
4. Apply DX-503 (Alodine #1201) brush on chemical conversion coating for aluminum.
5. The DP-40 (Epoxy Chromate Primer) mixed with DP-401 Catalyst can now be applied. A .75 mil film build is recommended.
NOTE: Allow 30 minute induction period for permeation of the epoxy chromate primer and the catalyst prior to application.
6. The topcoat consists of DAR-9000 Acrylic Enamel Black and the DXR-80 Delthane Ultra additive, and DTR-602 Reducer. It is a polyurethane acrylic enamel system which provides fast drying, durability, high resistance to corrosion and good color and gloss retention.
7. The type of spray gun used will determine the proper reduction ratio IMPORTANT: DO NOT use any type of aerosol spray paints, as the paint will not properly adhere to the surface, nor will the coating be sufficiently thick to resist future paint blistering.
NOTE: DO NOT PAINT SACRIFICIAL ANODES.

t500hps

Thanks for the feedback. I have been given the impression I could use Mercury's Phantom Black and then a clear coat they sell in areosol cans. Why do they sell the stuff if they don't recommend using it????
I'm not picky about which year decals I use. I have seen the sets of ebay for $20-$25.00.

Brad Zastrow

Mercury Phantom Black is a perfect match and will last a long time. Just touch up as needed. I was not aware of the clear coat. The black is a gloss and looks fine as it is.

32 caliber

This place has the paint and other great prices on parts.
http://www.mercstuff.com/sterndrivepaint.htm

Formula Outlaw

The first time I repainted my outdrives I got almost four years out of them using the Mercury Phantom Black Lacquer in a spray can. They came out very good.

Now I'm respraying the lowers metallic silver and will clearcoat them.

jimslade

1. strip off existing finish, have it soda blasted not sand blasted 2. metal prep or vinyl wash primer.3.epoxy prime, sand with 400 grit. 4. urethane black. most major manufacturers have quality urethane coatings. should last for 5 years
Never use urethane hardners with acrylic enamel paint. urethane hardners use polyisocianates and acrylics use aliphatic isocianates. if you do the cure will be very slow and will end up brittle with microscopic cracks.

t500hps

The more I think about this....Does anyone along the east coast do this s***. I'm thinking I need to let someone else do this..Anyone???

jimslade

Good idea, most of the products that are used can be very toxic. I know I work with them everyday. Sorry my shop is in toronto canada