cooltoys61

I just picked up a '96 Kawasaki 1100zxi at an auction and am wondering how to measure the "wear" to the pump or impellor. I know nothing about these but am wondering if you can measure it without breaking it down(like on an old jet boat) and also what typically goes wrong with these that should be checked before operation? It's to cold to take for a ride now and I'd like to give it a good once over before spring. Is the system that mixes oil with the fuel reliable and what can I do to check it's function?
Also any links to good Kawa jet ski forums where I should really be. I figured several of you guys would know.

Wally

iTrader: (1)

I canonly tell you what i know about Kawasakis from the 4 i had. They were X-2's not the waverunner type like you have. You can check the pump wear with a feeler gauge by removing the intake grate and inserting the gauge between the impellor and the pump. I have no idea what the wear limit is on those. You should be able to get an answer from a local dealer or serve guy. As for the oil premix pump.....well we never used those cause up untill i got out of it back in 94 they all sucked on the kawasaki's so we ditched them and premixed all our gas..........if you are unsure about it a safe way to go is to get a can of GoldSpec oil......one little bottle goes for 5 gallons of gas and is a perfect 50:1 mix.....we added that to our full tanks as a saftey measure on peoples that kept the stock premix system

mcollinstn

impeller to wear ring clearance should not exceed 0.015"

Can't recall if the Kawi pump is stainless sleeved or not. If the ID of the housing looks like hell, then it probably could use a new housing section ($140 ish new, less than that used).

Leading edge of the impeller must be nick free and no burrs.
Aftermarket impellers offer far better overall performance for $130-$170.
If it uses an impeller with a rubber seal on the nose of the impeller, make sure it is fitting snugly.

Those are good boats, but at the age of the boat, you should plan to drain and clean out the oil tank and replace all the flexible lines. The pumps rarely go bad, but the lines get cracks and the pump sucks air and the check balls at the carb fittings stick up and you lose a cylinder from it.

Check compression - should be even across all 3.

mc

cooltoys61

Thanks, I did a comp check and it was 125 across all three. Seems like it's oiling WAY to much unless it does that when cold. It is literally dripping from the exhaust after a quick start and wet with black oil all around the flapper. I know this is dumb but even though it's a 2 stroke isn't there any oil reservoir for the crank?I am ordering a manual but could not find any place for crank oil. Are they precision bearings or what?, never had a 2 stroke anything of my own. Looks like the 2 stroke oil is pumped off the front of the crank,,is there any adjustment to this? Plugs are wet with oil.
MC, are you in the car biz in Nashville? I have a dealers Lic. and go down there about 2 times per month to piddle around. Made some extra cash on Ebay in '03 but it dried up on me since, now it's a hobby and tax write off again.

Plum_Crazy

rivamotorsports.com has a kawi forum. I'm sure you can get your questions answered there. I've always had Yamaha, so I'm not sure about your oil injection. However, I remember that my old '96 WaveRaider 1100 did not have a variable rate oil injector like the newer Waverunner models. It smoked a lot at idle, but this was normal.

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

The whole pump assembly should come out with the drive shaft with 4 long bolts, after you remove any trim and steering assemblies. Its not that hard, and I recommend doing it just to make sure the drive shaft is straight, the pump and veins are in good shape, the impellor has no issues, and everything else. Its a good idea to lube the shaft splines (a lot) (check them too for cracks, bends, etc. too) so they don't seize in the motor since you don't know if this has ever been done.

The most important thing is compression, and it sounds like your ski is in good shape. The 1100ZXI was known for decent acceleration and top speed, but it never handled worth a crap. Rider position was un-natural compared to Sea-Doos and Polaris. However, most of the Yammie and Kawi skis now have the up over the handle bars position rather than the sitting at them.

Word of advice, don't tinker with it. Especially inside the engine compartment. If you want to change the impellor to more low range, or more high speed; fine. Sponsons, or ride plate, that is cool too. However, the more you dork with it, the less reliable, (in and exponential and expensive fashion) it will become.

I used to ride several PWC, and raced IJSBA Region 8 for a while.

mcollinstn

Two strokes get their oil from the fuel mix. Crank and rod bearings are rolling element bearings. They need an oil mist, which the swirling fuel provides.

The pump at the front of the crank meters oil to the carbs. Oil is pumped into the intake somewhere near the carbs. Usually above the throttle plates. There are check balls in the fittings by the carbs that keep oil from pulling back and or gravity drooling into the motor when stationary. Sometimes those stick or don't seat well after a bunch of years.

You're not gonna be able to tell much unless the motor is running with a load. Back your trailer in at a "clean bottom" ramp (a dirt or sand ramp will suck crap thru the pump). And fire it up on the trailer. Play around with it there. Let it warm up. Check for leaks. Check for proper water discharge out of the sight tube. Make a few "dyno pulls". It will cavitate on the trailer, since it will suck air from the hull sides, but you shoyudl be able to get a feel for whether it is acting right.

Then pull it out of the water and start it to blow the water out of the pipe belly. Now you can startit and see if goo is passing thru the exhaust.

best of luck

cooltoys61

Can I use any 2 stroke oil for the mix. Is "outboard" type different? TC-w3 is the rating on the cheapo stuff I found in my garage. I think I read to use TC-W2 or better. I guess I'll be mixing 100:1 in the gas and using the oil res. too. Heard horror stories about the auto sysem failing and frying pistons , cheap insuranse as little as I'll use it,,the boat still takes priority.

mcollinstn

The factory injection system on the Kawi is set up for TCW style oils. TCW3 is fine.
If you don't mind the additional smoke, adding 100:1 in the tank is also a decent idea. Lube system failures are rare on units that have clean lines and no sludge in the tank or check balls.

Sea Doo is the only setup that requires a "motorcycle spec" injection oil.

Boat oil is "prediluted" with a petroleum solvent (something like kerosene or minerl spirits). Motorcycle oil is straight stuff.

Run TCW in a Sea Doo and you'll be contributing to the dead motor fund.

cooltoys61

Thanks again. MCOLLINSTN, are you in the car biz in Nashville? I have a dealers Lic. and go down there about 2 times per month to piddle around. Made some extra cash on Ebay in '03 but it dried up on me since, now it's a hobby and tax write off again.