tj309

Matt - you come highly recommended. What would a ballpark figgure be for a pair of 30" 4 blade Quad IV's? Have any used? And would you take my 32" 3 blade cleavers in excellent condition in trade?

Cant do this tomorrow because 1st I have to get the setback brackets removed.

Thanks, TJ

Steve Zuckerman

tj here's another less radical "lake plate" which is still very effective.
Steve

tj309

Steve - Ive never seen a ride plate but the idea makes sense. By the way thanks for the pics. Not sure if this idea is adaptable to a twin rig tunnel, but Im sure it is. I think I will go with new props and loose the setback brackets and if that doesnt work I will look at your option very closely.

Thanks for your help....TJ

Steve Zuckerman

tj,
A friend of mine here in Nashville, Mike Ray, makes great ride plates. To see his stuff and/or contact him go to www.bulletowners.com and click on links.
Click on Mike Ray's foils and skid plates. By the way, these products do work.
Regards,
Steve

tj309

a few more questions remain...

1. What does setback gain and/or loose?

2. How low should the motors be mounted on a cat (the waterflow is presently slightly impeded by the hull)

3. Can a regular marina remove 12" setback brackets on a hiperf boat and get the motors mounted right?

Thanks, TJ

mmwalters

TJ The set back allows the props to more easily lift the bow for top speed. Some boats need the leverage some do not. Typically on a cat we lift the motor height to the point just below where it loses water pressure. Try the propshaft 1'' above the bottom.
In removing your setback bracket, there may be some holes to fill and some to drill and maybe some hydraulic lines to shorten,depending on your rigging. I would think any competent shop would be able to handle this. But I don't know the guys at your marina. Ask around for references.
I really like the idea of those ride plates in the pictures that Steve Z posted. They sure would not hurt anything.
Keep up posted and let us know your progress

tj309

1" above the bottom of what? The way these motors are currently mounted there is alot of room for cavitation at the lowest setting of the jack plates. I guess the best reference point would be where to have the motors' cavitation plate in reference to the hull be when the jack plates are full down.

Thanks mm....TJ

throttleup

I think a good drive height would be to set your motors up so the center of the prop shaft is 2" below the bottom of the hull when the jack plate is down and 4" when it's up. This should allow the jack plate to operate in the middle of it's adjustment range. The prop selection will ultimately dictate at what height you will run the drives. You will find that different water conditions will also dictate at what height to run the motors.

With jack plates it takes a little more to get the max speed from the boat as not only are you adjusting the drive trim but also the drive height.

We would probably be interested in your 32 cleavers. Give us a call and we could give you a little more detail about some sort of trade.

Matt

mmwalters

TJ Matt has good advice. In my experience lowering the motors will not have much effect in helping your boat to plane. Prop selection is the biggest factor. All reference are from the bottom of the boat directly in front of the motors to the center of the propshaft. Forget about the cavitation plate.

tj309

Removing the 12" setback brackets will be a problem because the "chin" of the motors would contact the top of the transom even with the 5 1/2" jack plates. Some quick measurements indicate I could go with a 6" setback bracket with the jack plate - is this worth it?

The motors could be lowered very easily 1 1/2" by dropping the jack mounting point on the setback bracket. With a bit more work they could be lowered an additional 1 1/2". As best as I can tell the lowest present setting of the jack puts the center of the propshaft 1" above the bottom of the boat in a neutral trim position. Again - is this worth it?

I suppose another option would be to somehow convert the 20" motors to 25" or to use drive spacers but this is probably a very expensive option.

Probably the best option and least expensive would be to get with Matt and get the right props, and maybe lower the motors the easy 1 1/2" (at least for starters) ?

Thanks, TJ